R36 loss power- misfiring

[MMR36]

I can't recall, but I'll plug in tomorrow and have a look.

On the Pump, I did look at it, but sourcing the filters in a time-line that worked for me was problematic, so I ended up buying new OEM VW pump and fitting it myself. I did try and get an aftermarket one, which would have been a quarter of the price for basically the same bits of plastic, but getting an R36 version here was very problematic. On the filters, you should be able to get the parts you'd need to do it in the UK/Europe. If you do need/want to pull the pump, disconnect the negative from the battery as the fuel module is sensitive (local VW parts place advised it was a good idea), it's the blue module on top of the sealing lid on top of pump.

[bigdaddy786]

That be great thanks.

I'll have look at it this weekend when i get some time. going to specialist who run their tests and see what's their verdict
Thank you all for your advice and feedback.

[MMR36]

That be great thanks.

I'll have look at it this weekend when i get some time. going to specialist who run their tests and see what's their verdict
Thank you all for your advice and feedback.

I use OBDEleven, but in VCDS it's the engine control unit (01) in measuring blocks it's group 106.

Fuel Rail Pressure Test with VCDS by Ross-Tech - YouTube

Hope it's something simple...

[HaydEn]

Once all the basics have been tested and verified working. Plugs, coils, injectors, MAF and Vac leaks.

Another cause for misfires can be carbon build up. Around 150,000km’s these engines start to have quite a bit. I was chasing a constant idle misfire for a while, pulled the intake manifold off and the ports were in bad shape.

Carbon clean and idle miss has gone.


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[bigdaddy786]

Car came back from the specialist, they stating the knock sensor is really high of 16v and should not be higher than 2v max, was told to suggest changing that, before they think about removing the engine to do the chains. As this is pulling back the timing back alot.

Said the two knock sensors on the block, how easy are they get too and what do they look like, eg shape colour?

[Lucas_R]

This is what a knock sensor looks like. They are secured to the engine with a bolt and have a wire harness going to them. They bolt to the engine block and essentially listen for knock or pinging and then they send that info to the ECU which will adjust timing to reduce the chance of damaging the engine.

There are 2x knock sensors on the VR6 engine, one at the front and one at the back.

Bosch - 030905377C - Knock Sensor - 165mm

[bigdaddy786]

Thanks Lucas, are the part numbers exactly the same for both sensors?

[meeso]

Nope, it all went back together pretty easily. The oil pump drive pulley supplied wiht the kit didnt fit, s i used the original, but it had little wear on the teeth profile so just went with the roll of the dice.. turned out well..

[Lucas_R]

Thanks Lucas, are the part numbers exactly the same for both sensors?

Quite likely to be - but something you might want to check with VW before you order the parts.

[bigdaddy786]

Update, been to a specialist, they diagnosed the issue , long story short it the brake booster. leaking as its hissing on idle but goes away when brake pedal is pressed.

How easy are these to replace brake booster? some say the engine has to come out to get to it?