Limp mode: "P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached"

[Arctra]

Over the weekend my Mrs went down the South Coast to meet friends whilst I was out of town, and on the drive the vehicle went into "limp mode" after there was a "ding" and the coil light started flashing. When she stopped, turned the engine off, then started it again it worked fine... for a while, and then did it again.

So when I got home last night I plugged in my VCDS cable and did a scan. BTW, it's a 2010 Tiguan TDI.

Wednesday,21,November,2018,19:04:52:57103
VCDS Version: Release 18.9.0 (x64) Running on Windows 10 x64
[url=http://www.Ross-Tech.com]Ross-Tech: Home[/url]

                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03L 906 022 G    HW: 03L 906 022 G
  Component and/or Version: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG  3396
           Software Coding: 0000175
            Work Shop Code: WSC 01649 959 95524
                      VCID: 2977073980262D02A2-807C
1 Fault Found:
                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation 
               P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent - MIL ON
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 10100000
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 2
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 181063 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 13:14:27

                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03L-906-022-CBA.clb
000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation 
               P0299 - 000 - Control Range Not Reached - Intermittent - MIL ON
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2208 /min
                    Speed: 98.0 km/h
                    Load: 71.8 %
                    Absolute Pres.: 2346.0 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 1468.8 mbar
                    Lambda: 98.6 %
                    Lambda: 33.9 %


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

I reset the fault code, and took a test drive. The engine pulled file, clearly coming into boost and reving to 4000rpm quite easily. But after sustaining 100km/h or so for a couple of km's the fault popped up again and the car went into limp mode again. Reset the code, and it was fine again until I sustained speed again.

I thought it might have something to do with the MAF sensor as apparently they're known to get dodgy, so I unplugged it to test after reading this thread - Maf 101 - TDIClub Forums
When I turned the key it immediately threw a code coz of the "missing MAF sensor" but it drove fine. Pulled like normal and was clearly in boost, but on the same test loop I was doing it went limp again.

Because the car ran fine with the MAF unplugged I'm thinking it's not the MAF sensor... so I plugged it in again. Testing again this morning I got the code again. There is no obvious sound which would indicate a split in one of the boost hoses, but I have to admit to not knowing what I'm listening for. I can't say there's an obvious "turbo rattle" either, but again, I am not sure what I am listening for.

I'm fearing my turbo is giving up the ghost, but I'd like to exhaust any other avenue I can before attacking it. It looks like it'll be a nightmare to get to, and from the sounds of it they are friggin' expensive. Even getting to the boost hoses going down to the intercooler is difficult, but the hose I can get to I have felt and there is no obvious splits in the hoses or loose connections.

Any suggestions?

[Suffolk]

Did you check your coils and sparks plugs?

[VW Convert]

Did you check your coils and sparks plugs?

Think you missed something in the original post. TDI

Cheers

George

[Arctra]

What VW Convert said

ps. I'm not trying to be an a-hole... your post tickled me just right though.

[Lucas_R]

IF your turbo is gone - my manager has a 2009 Jetta TDI and had to replace his turbo a few months ago because it had blown. He bought a used turbo off the same model car for $300 from a wrecker (brand new ones are around $1100) and the mechanic changed it over.

[h100vw]

I haven't read it really closely but wonder if the turbo is a variable vane one. And maybe they are stuck or sticky

[Arctra]

So I have done some more investigating and testing. I thought I had landed on the problem when I decided it must be the Pressure Boost Control Solenoid (IKO 906 627 A) as it seemed there have been a few failures of them (well, the ones actually located on the turbo anyway) when the diaphragm fails and so a sufficient vacuum to control the boost control flap. Off I went to my local VW dealer and dropped $200-odd on a new solenoid.


I removed the original one which is at the top of the firewall just under the bonnet (so easy to access) and compared it to the new part - doesn't look like the part has changed.


I fitted up the new part, making sure that the tubes were not damaged and that they sealed properly to ensure there was a decent vacuum.


Off I went on a test drive, and before I could get my hopes up too much, the error happened again! I have enough info to start zeroing in on the problem (I think). It seems that the vehicle is fine at lower speed driving, even when revving up to 4500rpm when pulling away from the traffic lights and things. So in the shorter term the boost seems fine and there is no problem. But when I get onto the highway and sustain a higher speed, the error occurs.

Wednesday,21,November,2018,19:04:52:57103 - Mileage: 181063 km
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2208 /min
                    Speed: 98.0 km/h
                    Load: 71.8 %
                    Absolute Pres.: 2346.0 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 1468.8 mbar
                    Lambda: 98.6 %
                    Lambda: 33.9 %

Wednesday,21,November,2018,19:18:45:57103 - Mileage: 181350 km
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2277 /min
                    Speed: 101.0 km/h
                    Load: 46.7 %
                    Absolute Pres.: 1734.0 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 1275.0 mbar
                    Lambda: 100.2 %
                    Lambda: 31.6 %

Wednesday,21,November,2018,21:11:18:57103 - Mileage: 181368 km (After unplugging MAF)
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2461 /min
                    Speed: 109.0 km/h
                    Load: 52.5 %
                    Absolute Pres.: 2029.8 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 1438.2 mbar
                    Lambda: 98.6 %
                    Lambda: 31.6 %

Friday,23,November,2018,17:19:46:57103 - Mileage: 181434 km (After replacing the solenoid)
             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 2875 /min
                    Speed: 101.0 km/h
                    Load: 91.8 %
                    Absolute Pres.: 2346.0 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 1856.4 mbar
                    Lambda: 86.0 %
                    Lambda: 32.4 %

Looking at the Vacuum hose schematic, I probably should not have bought a replacement solenoid (N75), but the Exhaust Gas Recirculation cooler changeover valve (N345) that the solenoid controls. I think that is connected to the turbo though, and to remove it I will have to remove the turbo... which is a MASSIVE job (for me anyway) as it seem you have to remove a lot of the front end.


Anyone have any thoughts on why there may be a boost problem only at speeds of around 100km/h and not speeds below that? That is the only factor that seems to correlate with the error - I would have expected it to be more related to RPM or Load on the engine, but apparently not.

[Arctra]

OK, so I have been "playing" around a bit more trying to diagnose my under-boost issue. There is a clear audible high pitched whistle whilst the vehicle is idling. This immediately makes me thing there is a vacuum leak, but I am finding it impossible to track down. I have tried a smoke test with a DIY smoke generator, but I cannot find any smoke leak. I can't be sure that is because there isn't a leak, or because my dodgy contraption isn't good enough to actually push smoke through the system.

I have a VCDS cable and have discovered there is an Engine Output test for the N75 Boost Pressure Control Solenoid Valve (A) test that turns the solenoid on for a few seconds, the off for a few seconds, and repeats that - so I tried that out. I'm not sure if you'll be able to hear it in this video, but whilst the solenoid is ON you can hear the whistling and then when it turns OFF the whistle immediately stops.
YouTube
[YOUTUBE]qfxcQyLvMeE[/YOUTUBE]

So now I am positive the problem is with the solenoid to actuate the vanes in the turbo that control boost. When I try and connect a hose to the turbo actuator and try to get a vacuum I cannot sustain one. The images and video's I have found seem to show the vacuum connection at the top of the actuator, but mine seems to go in the side. But anyway, I cannot get a vacuum on it so thing the diaphragm might be cactus. Here's where I connected by hose to test the vacuum.


If I am right, that means I need to replace the actuator, and that is going to require removing the turbo... and that is NOT a trivial task by the looks of things! Looks like I will need to remove the DPF which will mean getting under the vehicle and removing the prob shaft to be able to get to the bottom bracket of the DPF. NOT so keen on that, so I'm kinda hoping someone here has a better suggestion for me. Please?

[Transporter]

Yes, it’s quite common fault.. You don’t need to remove the turbo to replace the actuator, you only need good hands, 1/4” flex ratchet and 10mm long socket plus some normal tools that you probably already have. I have done few of them, it’s 1/2hour job.

[Arctra]

Thanks Miro! You legend.

Anyone out there have recommendations on a mechanic in Sydney (preferably Western Sydney near Penrith) that would be able to replace the actuator? I don't think I am game enough to do it myself.

[Arctra]

I've found this post with a PDF guide on how to do the replacement here - 2008 Tiguan turbo actuator replacement | VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze diesel forum

Also good article on "How to test and replace the VNT actuator on mk5 and mk6 TDI engines" but it is for CJAA, CBEA, or CKRA engines where mine is a CBAB so I'm not sure what the difference would be - VNT turbo actuator testing and replacement - mk5-mk6 TDI engine | VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze diesel forum

In case that's of interest to anyone here.

[Arctra]

Fixed!

So I shied away from doing the job myself and booked my vehicle in at FST Automotive in Penrith. I showed Frank the VCDS fault code printout, walked him through what I had done as far as diagnosing the problem was concerned, and then told him I thought it was the vacuum actuator attached to the turbo (labeled "1 Vacuum unit" in the diagram below) that was faulty (being very clear that I was not TELLING him what the problem was as I am not a mechanic, I was just passing on the info in case it helped him).


He took a quick look at what I had, asked me a question or two, and immediately agreed that was the likely culprit. So I dropped it off with him on Wednesday and collected the vehicle yesterday afternoon. She drives beautifully again! VERY HAPPY!

Now, I am one of those inquisitive types, so I decided to take the faulty actuator apart to see if I could tell what had failed (even though I was fairly certain it was a small hole or split in the diaphragm), and also to get a better idea of how the unit works. Here's the faulty actuator they removed.


First thing I did was cut off the plastic cover off the top (after trying to see if there was any way of removing it without cutting it... there wasn't)


Not much to see there, so I bent the tabs clamping the diaphragm to the body and folded the diaphragm up (inside out) to see if I could spot the hole/split. The only damage I saw to the diaphragm was from my cutting it open - which makes sense as the hole would have had to be very small to make the high pitched whistling sound I heard.


Under the diaphragm is a spring to push the rod back up when there is no vacuum. Now it makes sense to me how the default position is to have an under-boost situation if the actuator fails as the spring would push the actuator rod up to set the vanes to their least aggressive position if the diaphragm fails. Previously I just assumed that the rubber diaphragm would have returned to it's natural shape itself when not under vacuum, in which was I wondered how safe the engine would be if the rubber diaphragm split or tore. Now I know!


To my surprise, the diaphragm is not make of a thick rubber like I expected. It is a fiber re-enforced rubberised flexible sheet material. I guess that would be more robust and reliable than a thicker rubber diaphragm, but it also makes sense that there might be a very small hole in it that caused the whistle rather than a more major tear.


Anyway, the new actuator is now fitted and with it in place you'd never know that it had been replaced. Good job by the guys as TSF imo!

[jets]

Thanks for posting with pics. & the good news.

[ian]

How did you find the cost of the replacement compared to the dealers charges ,?

[Arctra]

How did you find the cost of the replacement compared to the dealers charges ,?

I called the dealer and they wouldn't even give me an estimate of how much it would be to replace the specific part I told them without first doing an inspection, checking the vehicle service history, etc. I got the distinct feeling they either really didn't want to do the job so were trying to make it as difficult for me as possible, or they wanted to take me to the cleaners by telling me I needed a whole new turbo or something. Back in 2016 when I had a problem with the cooling fan not coming on the dealer wanted to put a whole new cooling fan on, which I declined, took the car home and discovered it was just a blown 10A fuse that needed replacing and the fans worked again. Story here at the bottom of the post - Auxiliary Circulation Coolant Pump

The replacement part (I call it an actuator, but I think VW calls it something else) is OEM and was about $380 I think, and the labour was about $300, so overall the fix came in just under $700. Hefty, but not as bad as it could have been I guess. It's ncie to have the vehicle running properly again!