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Hi,
I thought I would share some info about how I wired up my Golf R valves in an attempt to keep it looking as factory as possible. I wanted to be able to operate them by a on/off switch in the console as opposed to selecting different modes which I also thought would be a much simpler way to set it up.
Now just a quick disclaimer- I'm not saying this is the best way to do this, this is just how I did it. Although it isn't an overly complicated install, I'd recommend not attempting it unless you have had experience with this kind of work as there is always the chance something will get damaged. This also isn't a step by step how-to, more of a guide to point you in the right direction. My Tiguan is a MY17 162TSI R-line, other models may have different switch sets which operate differently to mine.
First we need a button. If you pop the shifter cover off you can remove the switch set on the passenger side to modify the blank switch into an operating one. All the hardware is in there, the button just needs to be modified to allow it to be pressed.
Carefully remove the red cover on the bottom of the switch then pop out the circuit board, the rubber seal then the button can be removed through the top of the switch set and the 2 parts of the button separated. Small flat head screw drivers and steady hands will be required to do this.
From there with a bit of trial and error (and a dremel) the plastic stops can be removed. I basically just removed little bits at a time that looked like they were preventing operation until the switch moved as it should.
Also while its apart use a multimeter to test continuity between both sides of the switch pads circled and the pins, one side will be a common ground and the other side will be individual to that switch- make note of this pin because this is the one we will be using.
This is the pinout (on the switch) that I came up with- looking at it with the latch for the connector on the left (or using the numbers cast into the plastic) mine were as follows:
1- Common Earth
2- Backlight +
3- Switch 4 Output
4- Switch 3 Output
5- Switch 2 Output
6- Switch 4 Orange LED
7- Switch 3 Orange LED
8- Switch 2 Orange LED
9- Switch 1 Output
10- Switch 1 Orange LED
Put it all back together but don't refit the top of the button yet- find a laser engraver near by and take it to them with a jpg of the image you want on there.
Put the switch set back in the car, find the wire in the connector that was individual to this switch, confirm it is correct by confirming the voltage on that wire changed when the button is pressed then cut the wire and join on a long length of wire to the switch side which will be run to the back of the car. Hook a multimeter up to this wire and confirm continuity between it and earth only when the button is pressed.
Next remove the glovebox so we can find a voltage source. Test the spare fuse slots and find one that is only active with ign on. Put a male spade terminal on a wire, then a fuse holder with a 20A fuse in it then run that wire into the rear of the car.
From here we will need to make a circuit that will convert our momentary earth switch into a latching earth path for the solenoids. For this we will require 2 standard relays and 1 latching relay. I used a Red Arc latching relay which is available at Repco
Latching Relay - Chopper Relay Flip Flop | REDARC Electronics
Unfortunately this relay needs 2 B+ inputs to operate and 2 earth outputs. It also needs a switch on the B+ side which isn't what we have in the console. It also is unable to earth the solenoids in the way we want it to so a relay circuit needs to be used to make it work.
Relay 1 is a standard relay which we use to convert our earth switch into a B+ switch for relay 2.
Relay 2 is the Red Arc Latching relay which converts our momentary switch into a latching switch.
Relay 3 is used to open and close an earth path for the exhaust solenoids.
Get 2 connectors part number 4F0973703 to connect to the valves. I ran the wiring from the relays through a grommet in the floor on the LHR corner of the cargo area and wired it all in!
All going well you should have have operational exhaust valves!
*Update 16/05/21- Added switch pinouts
I thought I would share some info about how I wired up my Golf R valves in an attempt to keep it looking as factory as possible. I wanted to be able to operate them by a on/off switch in the console as opposed to selecting different modes which I also thought would be a much simpler way to set it up.
Now just a quick disclaimer- I'm not saying this is the best way to do this, this is just how I did it. Although it isn't an overly complicated install, I'd recommend not attempting it unless you have had experience with this kind of work as there is always the chance something will get damaged. This also isn't a step by step how-to, more of a guide to point you in the right direction. My Tiguan is a MY17 162TSI R-line, other models may have different switch sets which operate differently to mine.
First we need a button. If you pop the shifter cover off you can remove the switch set on the passenger side to modify the blank switch into an operating one. All the hardware is in there, the button just needs to be modified to allow it to be pressed.
Carefully remove the red cover on the bottom of the switch then pop out the circuit board, the rubber seal then the button can be removed through the top of the switch set and the 2 parts of the button separated. Small flat head screw drivers and steady hands will be required to do this.
From there with a bit of trial and error (and a dremel) the plastic stops can be removed. I basically just removed little bits at a time that looked like they were preventing operation until the switch moved as it should.
Also while its apart use a multimeter to test continuity between both sides of the switch pads circled and the pins, one side will be a common ground and the other side will be individual to that switch- make note of this pin because this is the one we will be using.
This is the pinout (on the switch) that I came up with- looking at it with the latch for the connector on the left (or using the numbers cast into the plastic) mine were as follows:
1- Common Earth
2- Backlight +
3- Switch 4 Output
4- Switch 3 Output
5- Switch 2 Output
6- Switch 4 Orange LED
7- Switch 3 Orange LED
8- Switch 2 Orange LED
9- Switch 1 Output
10- Switch 1 Orange LED
Put it all back together but don't refit the top of the button yet- find a laser engraver near by and take it to them with a jpg of the image you want on there.
Put the switch set back in the car, find the wire in the connector that was individual to this switch, confirm it is correct by confirming the voltage on that wire changed when the button is pressed then cut the wire and join on a long length of wire to the switch side which will be run to the back of the car. Hook a multimeter up to this wire and confirm continuity between it and earth only when the button is pressed.
Next remove the glovebox so we can find a voltage source. Test the spare fuse slots and find one that is only active with ign on. Put a male spade terminal on a wire, then a fuse holder with a 20A fuse in it then run that wire into the rear of the car.
From here we will need to make a circuit that will convert our momentary earth switch into a latching earth path for the solenoids. For this we will require 2 standard relays and 1 latching relay. I used a Red Arc latching relay which is available at Repco
Latching Relay - Chopper Relay Flip Flop | REDARC Electronics
Unfortunately this relay needs 2 B+ inputs to operate and 2 earth outputs. It also needs a switch on the B+ side which isn't what we have in the console. It also is unable to earth the solenoids in the way we want it to so a relay circuit needs to be used to make it work.
Relay 1 is a standard relay which we use to convert our earth switch into a B+ switch for relay 2.
Relay 2 is the Red Arc Latching relay which converts our momentary switch into a latching switch.
Relay 3 is used to open and close an earth path for the exhaust solenoids.
Get 2 connectors part number 4F0973703 to connect to the valves. I ran the wiring from the relays through a grommet in the floor on the LHR corner of the cargo area and wired it all in!
All going well you should have have operational exhaust valves!
*Update 16/05/21- Added switch pinouts
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