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Wolfsburg first service interval and run in procedure

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Simonr23 View Post
    I think I might give mine an oil change, as it’s near 5000 already and doing a 2000km trip aus day weekend.

    Holy crap oil is dear for this car(diesel) I just bought a bottle.

    84-96 was the price range for a 5l bottle(penrite enviro+ 5/30)

    Will be a job for Saturday.
    Massive sale at Supercheap, cost me about $46 per bottle.
    Daily 2018 Tiguan MK2 Sportline (Drag & Drop Tune, 12.9s @ 108mph)
    Weekend/Track 1996 Skyline R33 GTS-t Stage 99 (Built Motor, GTX3576 Gen 2, 407rwkW) [Build Thread]

    www.nhbautomotive.com.au

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Psych101 View Post
      Its in the manual. First 1500km dont go over 3500rpm, no full throttle, no lugging engine from memory
      Lol... man I'm cruel, 12 km on the clock, I redlined it out of the dealer in sports mode.
      Daily 2018 Tiguan MK2 Sportline (Drag & Drop Tune, 12.9s @ 108mph)
      Weekend/Track 1996 Skyline R33 GTS-t Stage 99 (Built Motor, GTX3576 Gen 2, 407rwkW) [Build Thread]

      www.nhbautomotive.com.au

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      • #18
        Is it easy to do the oil change yourself? I read somewhere you might need a proprietary tool to remove the sump plug and that they are a disposable item? Would be keen to change oil before first service

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        • #19
          Originally posted by tigger73 View Post
          Just don't do launch control out of the dealer driveway on a cold engine and you should be fine
          This reminds me of when i worked at a Holden dealership around 1999-2001. A guy came in and bought a brand new HSV GTS 300kw which was a $100k car back then. It was a brand new model and the first one the dealership had sold so there was a fair bit of interest from sales staff/mechanics etc. This guy who bought it was such a bogan but he thought he was awesome, and proceeded to do a celebratory burnout as he left the dealership (with everyone watching) - he spun the car around and went up the median strip and put a bit scratch in one of his rear wheels. Even better was that it was the end of the day so the road was busy with people coming home from work.

          It seems this car was cursed from that minute forward, as it came back in sooo many times for issues (had a new engine fitted...twice, new gearbox, new diff, new brakes etc etc). Then the dealership was broken into one night with multiple cars stolen, but the GTS was up on the hoist in pieces so it could not be taken, but they stole the brand new brakes that were just fitted the day before along with the rims.
          Last edited by Lucas_R; 10-01-2019, 08:38 AM.
          2017 Ford Fiesta ST the go kart

          2015 Audi SQ5 bi-turbo V6 TDI family hauler

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Psych101 View Post
            Is it easy to do the oil change yourself? I read somewhere you might need a proprietary tool to remove the sump plug and that they are a disposable item? Would be keen to change oil before first service
            Answered my own question for anyone interested:
            YouTube

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            • #21
              When a dealer takes you for a spin in a demo, watch what they do. Then, if they hand you the keys for a loan for a day (like they did for me with a Golf R) give it hell.
              Lesson number 1. Never buy a “dealer principal” car or demo.

              Lesson number 2. Drive it like you stole it lol. Just jokes, not towing for a few thousand k’s is smart practice. Do a variation of driving from cruising/short shifting to short blasts to the redline for a few thousand klms.

              Everyone has their own take, when we build race engines this is the method we always take, but no long runs revving hard until some bedding in.

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              • #22
                That’s where I just bought mine. Sale must have finished
                Originally posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu View Post
                Massive sale at Supercheap, cost me about $46 per bottle.

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                • #23
                  I did the oil change last night. It said 4l is the diesel change capacity, but I used 4.3 and could’ve used a bit more.

                  I used a pump to suck from the dipstick neck, so likely left a bit behind as well.

                  Also interesting, is that nowhere in my 5 user manuals and addendums, is the oil quantity specified.

                  Also interesting, is there is a MASSIVE allowance for oil growth(diesel dilution) on my car. As well as no official ‘fill to here’ point on the stick.

                  There is a range where oil is good, another range where oil isn’t to be added to and then a massive jump up to the ‘max allowed’ mark- and I mean massive, like probably an extra 4cm up the stick from the top of the 2nd range.

                  I filled it to about 3/4 the way up the 1st range. Strange that such an anal and process driven company, can be so vague with the user about the very life-blood of the engine.

                  They also allow 1l/2000km of oil consumption, which would be ridiculous.

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                  • #24
                    They probably assume all VAG owners don't service their own vehicles.

                    Also I assume the dilution on both petrol and diesel is due to extremely loose ring gaps to allow the motor to operate (mainly during start up) in different regions/climates. I haven't actually measured one myself so I wouldn't have the slightest idea, but on my ****box RB25 motor I got rebuilt, I requested for 0.025 ring gap for both rings. Plan is to squirt nitrous into it if the new GTX3582R is too laggy lol. Anyhow back on topic, after a solid 2000km of thrashing the RB25 (including a skid pan) there is light dilution of oil as it smells like E85.

                    I've pulled the dip stick out of the Tiguan tonight and have a whiff of it. 1st car I've ever owned that I'm not going to service myself lol.
                    Daily 2018 Tiguan MK2 Sportline (Drag & Drop Tune, 12.9s @ 108mph)
                    Weekend/Track 1996 Skyline R33 GTS-t Stage 99 (Built Motor, GTX3576 Gen 2, 407rwkW) [Build Thread]

                    www.nhbautomotive.com.au

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                    • #25
                      In the case of modern diesels(my car is diesel) rising oil is laregly a by-product of dpf regens.

                      To save costs a lot of passenger cars just squirt extra fuel into the combustion chamber on the exhaust stroke (during a regen) to superheat the exhaust system(rather than the better, but slightly dearer method of a dedicated injector in the exhaust system- like an O2 sensor), which in turn promotes burn off of the collected particulate matter, leaving only a small amount of residual ‘soot’ behind.

                      The bad part of this cheap way around regens, is that some of this injected fuel leaks past the pistons((so you called it) actually may be valves, too?) into the sump.

                      Mazda had/has it bad, as they force regens based on a distance and pressure sensor algorithm and were over-regen’ing themselves and diluting the oil too much, too soon.

                      Edit- the bottom shield is a pain in the ass. 25odd fasteners to undo, to drop it and access the good old fashioned sump plug.

                      $50 at Jaycar for the oil transfer pump was well spent!

                      Drive/idle for 5mins, park, insert one tube into dipstick hold, other into empty container, press button, wait about 3mins until it’s sucked mostly dry, remove pump, refill the normal way, do the usual checks of fluid level and top up the last bit and done. All in about 15mins- including packing up.
                      Last edited by Simonr23; 11-01-2019, 08:59 AM.

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                      • #26
                        I’d do it myself
                        2018 Allspace 162TSI R Line

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                        • #27
                          Think about the millions of modern VW’s out there which are serviced at best, according to the schedule and which get good long engine lives with few issues... don’t overthink it.
                          Cheers

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Simonr23 View Post

                            $50 at Jaycar for the oil transfer pump was well spent!

                            Drive/idle for 5mins, park, insert one tube into dipstick hold, other into empty container, press button, wait about 3mins until it’s sucked mostly dry, remove pump, refill the normal way, do the usual checks of fluid level and top up the last bit and done. All in about 15mins- including packing up.
                            ...and what about the oil filter?
                            Last edited by Transporter; 12-01-2019, 06:33 AM.
                            Performance Tunes from $850
                            Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link

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                            • #29
                              i didnt change the filter for this one. the dealer can do that at the 1yr service. if its so full of metal already, then ive got bigger issues!

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Simonr23 View Post
                                i didnt change the filter for this one. the dealer can do that at the 1yr service. if its so full of metal already, then ive got bigger issues!
                                I guess if the first oil and filter is 15000kms, then filter ought to be ok. One less thing into the landfill.....

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