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Well it does go from 80kw up to 135kw so not exactly flat but when the range of the graph is 70-280 and next to a big turbo line it's going to look flat.
I believe the upgrades included a high pressure fuel pump (HPFP), intercooler, DP, air intake and Venom 550 turbo.
Stock graph just looks flat in comparison because of the scale chosen. But yes output is over 2 x stock so it's hard to put both on the same graph together
Where have people sourced their new is38s as well as Apr, CTS and other gear from? Are Apr parts mainly sold through their official tuners?
Prices on the P series I've found - almost $4k from local VW parts, $2500 from vagparts in Sydney, or $2200 landed from ecs tuning. Edit - also found some very low km second hand turbos for 650euro (1100) ex shipping.
Just remember if you get it from overseas that likely you'll be hit up with 10% GST on the import. So then the $2200 ECS unit ends up bing $2,420 and you may as well have got the one from Vagparts...
The other option is talk to your local tuner and see what they are able to offer. I know some are doing big turbo builds and the second-hand IS38's are being recycled onto other cars.
Also for the $ I'd be looking at Venom 550. The Tig running that hauls serious ass.
Sorry for OT but a question to MT or anyone else - do you know the wheel only weight of the 20" Suzukas? If a 20" tyre is roughly 15kg that would suggest the same (ish) for the R Line rims?
Yes I think from memory the Suzukas are in the order of 14.5-15kg per rim. They're quite a heavy wheel. I think someone may have weighed on at some point.
I had a 20" Kapstadt rim on the scales and that was 13.4kg but it's 20x8. The Suzuka is a "chunkier" style as well as being 20x8.5 so an extra 1-1.5kg would be about right.
Hope everyone is well. I just wanted to update that I have had the car now in its tuned state for a while now and it’s been awesome. Highly recommend to anyone on the fence. My car was dyno’d at 220KW on a 32.5deg day when the bush fires were at their peak. Not much oxygen in the air and certainly not optimum power conditions.
What do you think the difference would be on a fresh 10 degree morning ?
Reason I’m back in here is in thinking of lowering the car 2 inches. Best option?
I don't think temp would make much difference to your peak output.
I am currently working through researching high flowed and hybrid options. I want the spool and streetability of an is38, but also want to be able to tune it to the stock map/fuel limit of ~25-27 psi reliably, which after my research doesn't seem a given with IS38 (722H rev being the thickest/most well balanced shaft from factory, and 874P rev getting a bad reputation above stock boost levels on golf forums in the UK).
The problem is most of the high flowed is38s come with clipped wheels or other upgrades which lose them ~500rpm of spool. And they generally come with longer wait times. Littco L380 seems like a good oem core upgrade but I would need to find an actuator and turbine housing. Started looking into others like EQT Vortex, hpa oem+ and similar. I don't want to do fuel upgrades and so an actual hybrid seems silly. I would lose bottom end / spool, and not benefit from the top end that comes with extra fuelling.
Dont spend too much time reading about peoples problems, every turbo is going to have an issue, the H version I first tried was unbalanced and blew up, my P version going strong for near 1 year now. Unless you plan on doing track days or runway top speed runs where you are on full throttle constantly and your car is tuned correctly then low chance of failure.
Interesting that the low pressure fuel pump was mentioned. I only ever saw that done in the Mighty Car Mods Golf R stage 3 mod they did, and there's not a great deal of info around upgrading it as opposed to the amount of talk around high pressure fuel pumps.
I've been considering getting a TTRS LPFP installed as I recently had issues with the engine misfiring on all cylinders whenever I smashed the accelerator in D or S mode.
The car would limp to 80km/h and after a few minutes would clear and be all good again.
The tuner looked at it, replicated it once only to find every subsequent run it would be fine. It was like it dumped a load of fuel in, panicked, then sorted itself out. I ended up getting the tune dialed back slightly as a precaution and it's been fine ever since.
I suspected it was related to the LPFP not keeping up with the HPFP but the tuner didn't think so.
The joys of tuning.
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