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MkVII Brakes (Pads, Rotors and Calipers) - Discussion and Questions

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  • #16
    1.4 tsi brake upgrade

    Hi guys,
    I have a 2016 1.4 tsi and are looking at the PP/R 340mm brakes.
    Do I need to upgrade the master cylinder and if, will a cylinder from a GTI fit? Anything else need to be upgraded?

    Bgds Dan.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by nutztoys View Post
      Hi guys,
      I have a 2016 1.4 tsi and are looking at the PP/R 340mm brakes.
      Do I need to upgrade the master cylinder and if, will a cylinder from a GTI fit? Anything else need to be upgraded?

      Bgds Dan.
      Got to ask why you need such big brakes with a small motor??
      optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

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      • #18
        Honestly most for looks. They look so small with 19" wheels.

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        • #19
          Standard Golf brakes are 288mm (front)/272mm (rear), GTI - 312mm(f)/300mm(r), GTI PP/R 340mm(f)/310mm(r).

          I think they should fit/bolt up OK, however these will not be cheap if you purchase new/genuine spare parts.

          It would almost certainly be cheaper to change wheels to something with a more closed in design that doesn't show off your small rotors... though you do see quite a few modded up base model cars with tiny rotors. BBK's are expensive and more than likely you're not putting them on for performance - just for looks.

          If you're keen I'd be looking at something second-hand and repainting it.
          Last edited by tigger73; 16-12-2016, 06:45 AM.

          2017 Tiguan Sportline - Tigger73's 162TSI Sportline

          2016 Scirocco R, stage 1, 205kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's Scirocco R Build
          2013 Tiguan 155TSI, stage 1, 144kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's 155TSI Build
          2011 Tiguan 125TSI, Stage 2+, 152kwaw (sold)
          - Tigger73's 125TSI Build


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          • #20
            Wouldn't mind a refurbishd set.
            Just worried that the master cylinder isn't up for the job.
            Would the cylinder from a GTI bolt straight on?

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            • #21
              May I ask...why the upgrade? Do you track the car? I don't see a point unless it's been raced or something.

              Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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              • #22
                Golf 7 rotors

                Moderator please move if i have posted in wrong secion, couldnt find anywhere else.

                Hey guys, i have a MK7 2.0 TDI.
                A family friend has borrowed my car while i was overseas and has ruined the brake rotors and pads.
                Im going to replace them myself, any advice for changing them?

                Also, both pads are worn out however my front right rotor has been worn to be less than a fingernail thick ( i know its really bad ) while my front left rotor seems normal with no wear or scratches on it at all.
                Has anybody had this issue or is there anyone that knows how i can fix this?

                From my standpoint it seems like for some reason only the front right one is working lol
                I braveky drove it home yesterday and it was only screeching on the right side with no noise coming from the left...

                Last one, when i search for replacement rotors, there is 2 options for my car, 312mm and 288mm. Which is better suited?

                Many thanks in advance!

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                • #23
                  You need to replace the rotors as a pair.

                  You're also better off ordering parts from a supplier that uses your VIN to verify that they're the correct parts. Most leading European suppliers work this way.
                  '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
                  '01 Beetle 2.0

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                  • #24
                    I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

                    If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

                    Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

                    You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

                    Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

                    This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

                    The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

                    After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                    Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
                    Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

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                    • #25
                      I will replace them as a pair.
                      When i called up european suppliers and gave them my vin number they gave me the above optiona for rotors. Which is why im bot sure whuch ones are correct...

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                      • #26
                        Golf 7 rotors

                        Also in addition to above, get some pad lubes for the rub points between the pads and the calliper. And some brake lubes are handy to lube up those guide pins for the calliper.

                        Oh, latex gloves. Lots of latex gloves. It's a messy job, and brake dust is carcinogenic, so avoid contact with skin and breathing it in.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                        Last edited by agentthumb; 17-01-2017, 07:16 AM.
                        Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
                        Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by agentthumb View Post
                          I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

                          If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

                          Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

                          You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

                          Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

                          This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

                          The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

                          After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          How necessary is it to put the back brakes into maintenace mode while changing the front ones. Cant i just straight forward swap and change the front rotors without a computer?

                          No the rotor on the right has gone down to less than a fingernail thick because its been driven with metal to metal... but the one on the left looks pretty decent, no scratches on it or anything which is what has baffeled me...

                          Both of the pads are compleletly worn

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                          • #28
                            MkVII Brake Rotors and Pads - Discussion and Questions

                            Originally posted by Golf7Tdi View Post
                            How necessary is it to put the back brakes into maintenace mode while changing the front ones. Cant i just straight forward swap and change the front rotors without a computer?

                            No the rotor on the right has gone down to less than a fingernail thick because its been driven with metal to metal... but the one on the left looks pretty decent, no scratches on it or anything which is what has baffeled me...

                            Both of the pads are compleletly worn
                            You don't need to touch the back if you are just doing the fronts. So no computer required.

                            You will still need the piston pusher to fit the new pads.

                            So your mate kept driving it with the horrendous metal on metal contact noise? I hope you are not friends anymore


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
                            Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by agentthumb View Post
                              I'm confused. One of your front rotor is worn down to less than a fingernail thick? Did you mean pad?

                              If it's the rotor, you have bigger issues. Their spec for replacement is usually 2mm of wear measured, which leaves plenty of material.

                              Check if your pads need replacing too. Do everything as a pair.

                              You will need a piston pusher to put the new pads in. You will also need VCDS to change the back pads as you will need to put them into maintenance mode.

                              Have a syringe ready to suck some brake fluid out of the master cylinder as you push the pistons back. Usually you are ok, but some mechanics top up the fluid during services as the pads are worn.

                              This creates a mess when you push the pistons back and all the fluid overflows the tank. Brake fluids are highly corrosive so you don't want that

                              The rotor size should be in your owners manual. Try to get rotors for European cars if you go aftermarket and get the best (non-performance) pads you can afford.

                              After all, the only things that will prevent a crash are your 4 tyres and brakes


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              Originally posted by agentthumb View Post
                              You don't need to touch the back if you are just doing the fronts. So no computer required.

                              You will still need the piston pusher to fit the new pads.

                              So your mate kept driving it with the horrendous metal on metal contact noise? I hope you are not friends anymore


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              I cant use a clamp of some sort? Instead of a proper piston pusher?

                              Yeah i didnt know ehat to say i just laughed lol

                              But i cant wrap my head around why the left rotor still looks brand new and the one on the right is worn to the limit lol

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Golf7Tdi View Post
                                I cant use a clamp of some sort? Instead of a proper piston pusher?

                                Yeah i didnt know ehat to say i just laughed lol

                                But i cant wrap my head around why the left rotor still looks brand new and the one on the right is worn to the limit lol
                                If you have a C clamp big enough, you can make it work

                                It's probably as you said, the rotors were probably worn equally until one of the pad wore out first. Once it's metal on metal, it doesn't take long!


                                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                                Golf MK7 103TSI Highline Wagon | Limestone Grey | DAP2
                                Golf MK7 110TDI Highline Hatchback | Tungsten Silver | DAP

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