MkVII Brakes (Pads, Rotors and Calipers) - Discussion and Questions

[Golf7Tdi]

If you have a C clamp big enough, you can make it work

It's probably as you said, the rotors were probably worn equally until one of the pad wore out first. Once it's metal on metal, it doesn't take long!


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Sorry mate, one more thing, will i really need a syringe to suck out some fluid or will it be okay just to push the piston back? Sorry if its a dumb question as this is the first time doing it myself

[agentthumb]

Sorry mate, one more thing, will i really need a syringe to suck out some fluid or will it be okay just to push the piston back? Sorry if its a dumb question as this is the first time doing it myself

No such thing as a stupid question. Only stupid assumptions

You don't have to have it. Depends on what your mechanic has done between services. When the cars roll off the factory floor, the brake fluid is filled to the full line with new brake pads.

As the pads wear over time, the pistons in the calliper moves further and further out to keep the pads in contact with the rotors. This leads to the fluids in the reservoir dropping below the "Max" line but should still be well above the "Min" line. Some mechanics leave it as is (which is what you are supposed to do), other's top it up.

Topping it up creates a problem when you replace the pads. As the new pads will be thicker than your worn pads, you have to push the pistons back to their outer position to accept new pads. This forces brake fluid back up the line into the reservoir, which if topped up, will overfill. And it will leak everywhere (trust me, I learned the hard way )

Best to have a syringe or something ready to remove the excess fluid when you are pushing on the pistons.

Also, check to see if your brake fluid is currently near the "Max" line as an indication to see if your mechanic has topped up the fluid.


If you decide to remove fluid, only remove what you need to. The last thing you want is for the level dropping below "Min" line, and air getting into the system.

A note regarding the guide / slide bolts holding the calliper onto the car, they only require very little torque to do up. I wouldn't go past 30 Nm of torque. Don't over torque it as the bolt will easily strip.

[Golf7Tdi]

No such thing as a stupid question. Only stupid assumptions

You don't have to have it. Depends on what your mechanic has done between services. When the cars roll off the factory floor, the brake fluid is filled to the full line with new brake pads.

As the pads wear over time, the pistons in the calliper moves further and further out to keep the pads in contact with the rotors. This leads to the fluids in the reservoir dropping below the "Max" line but should still be well above the "Min" line. Some mechanics leave it as is (which is what you are supposed to do), other's top it up.

Topping it up creates a problem when you replace the pads. As the new pads will be thicker than your worn pads, you have to push the pistons back to their outer position to accept new pads. This forces brake fluid back up the line into the reservoir, which if topped up, will overfill. And it will leak everywhere (trust me, I learned the hard way )

Best to have a syringe or something ready to remove the excess fluid when you are pushing on the pistons.

Also, check to see if your brake fluid is currently near the "Max" line as an indication to see if your mechanic has topped up the fluid.


If you decide to remove fluid, only remove what you need to. The last thing you want is for the level dropping below "Min" line, and air getting into the system.

A note regarding the guide / slide bolts holding the calliper onto the car, they only require very little torque to do up. I wouldn't go past 30 Nm of torque. Don't over torque it as the bolt will easily strip.

Thanks very much, ill post if i have any issues... seems pretty easy, ill just take my time and be carefull...

Thank you!

[agentthumb]

One more thing to note, brake fluid attract moisture. So don't leave the lid to the reservoir open while you are changing the pads.

[Golf7Tdi]

Thanks mate, got it done

Not too hard after you know what your doing,

Appreciate the help!

[agentthumb]

Thanks mate, got it done

Not too hard after you know what your doing,

Appreciate the help!

No worries did you enjoy the "bed in" process?


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[ilium007]

Hi guys - I need new pads for a Mk7 GTI PP and looking at either the Remsa or EBC Redstuff pads. I am machining OEM rotors this time round.

Any opinions on either of these pads ? I know the EBC Redstuff pads are ceramic but are supposed to still give good cold stopping performance - would like any advice on noise levels.

I am in Brisbane and have only found Brakes Direct to supply.

[Umai Naa!!]

If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.

[ilium007]

If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.

Ok thanks - I'll see if I can find tolerance specs. The vehicle has done 20,000km. One track day (well... the driver) trashed the OEM pads.

[ilium007]

If the discs are already lipped, I'd throw them away. By the time you machine the lip off, and skim the surface true again, they'll be pretty close to undersized. You get virtually zero tolerance with them, and Remsa pads will just trash them anyway.

Can highly recommend ATE Ceramics, with ATE discs.

You can get these from any one of 5 ATE Brake Centres around Brisbane.

Rang ATE direct as the service centres in Brisbane wouldn't sell parts.

Front rotors: $205+GST each
Pads: $243+ GST set

Over budget ! Any other recommendations ?

[ilium007]

Purchased rotors and pads from Brakes Direct - professional service from the guys down at Hendra in Brisbane.

[Servo]

Purchased rotors and pads from Brakes Direct - professional service from the guys down at Hendra in Brisbane.

What did you end up going with? I'm thinking of getting the DBA slotted front and back

[ilium007]

The DBA slotted weren't available as they only hit the market last Monday. I could have had them custom made by DBA but it would have taken a week. Just went with the DBA standard street series as DBA Sydney only had 1 x heavy duty solid rotor in stock. Slotted would have looked better

Parts I used were:

DBA2830E | DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor
1470.01 | Remsa Brake Pads (included new calliper slide bolts)

Got it all from Brakes Direct in Brisbane.

Just sitting in the car on the side of the road now waiting for them to cool down after first bed in run. So far they seem as good if not better than OEM.

[Servo]

Nice. I had slotted DBA's on my old Polo and they were fantastic and never squeaked.

[ilium007]

Just drive this one again and these brakes work better than OEM.