If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
2nd image maybe had the MK5 connector part numbers, but in terms of connection pins/wiring diagram are they spot on?
I think maybe i should use this? as i don't have LED tail lights
No, it's not the same as the Mk5, even if you have normal lights... but the lights bit will actually be the same as the Mk5 one (in theory, I can't test that).
And bloody hell, everything is different to what the guides say it should be... popped out the RNS today and even the wiring at the back of that is different, ugh! If you were in 2 minds about whether to get BT or RVC when ordering, just tick the box, you'll save some poor bastard the hassle of doing it later!
No, it's not the same as the Mk5, even if you have normal lights... but the lights bit will actually be the same as the Mk5 one (in theory, I can't test that).
And bloody hell, everything is different to what the guides say it should be... popped out the RNS today and even the wiring at the back of that is different, ugh! If you were in 2 minds about whether to get BT or RVC when ordering, just tick the box, you'll save some poor bastard the hassle of doing it later!
The RNS 510 has not changed connector positions or assignments since it was introduced. The RVC, bluetooth and MDI all plug into the same places they always have.
The same goes with the wiring in the hatch, it hasn't changed since the cars were introduced (with regards to the wiring of the lights) so I'm not sure why there would be any confusion there.
considering if the RVC delivered has wires shown below, isn't that just as simple as finding which wire will be loaded with +12 when reverse gear is selected for the reverse wire, and the right wire to the boot lock relay? so a simple wire tap won't work?
The RNS 510 has not changed connector positions or assignments since it was introduced. The RVC, bluetooth and MDI all plug into the same places they always have.
The same goes with the wiring in the hatch, it hasn't changed since the cars were introduced (with regards to the wiring of the lights) so I'm not sure why there would be any confusion there.
Don't think I ever said I was confused, did I?
And yes, the wiring is different for LED lights. Plus, the parts that seem to be shipping now are slightly different from the older ones, so the "loom" is different and somewhat simpler now.
And yes, the wiring is different for LED lights. Plus, the parts that seem to be shipping now are slightly different from the older ones, so the "loom" is different and somewhat simpler now.
The difference in the example above is that they are running the ground from the front which is pointless when there is a ground in the hatch that can be used.
As for the LED wiring this goes without saying but if an adapter is made rather than changing the connector on the loom it doesn't matter, only fitment to an R requires slightly different connectors but the principle stays the same which is create an inline harness to pick up the reverse power.
The difference in the example above is that they are running the ground from the front which is pointless when there is a ground in the hatch that can be used.
As for the LED wiring this goes without saying but if an adapter is made rather than changing the connector on the loom it doesn't matter, only fitment to an R requires slightly different connectors but the principle stays the same which is create an inline harness to pick up the reverse power.
Yes, and there's no reason to run a ground wire all the way to the front... I certainly haven't. But, it is bound to the video cable along with the positive line, so unless you want to cut the cloth tape off the entire thing, you're better off just running it anyway and not connecting it. The Earth line actually comes from the Rear Badge connection.
Finished the install today... can't test it fully given my VAG-COM is being replaced, but only a few days hopefully. Pops open when I put it in reverse though, that's a good sign!
I know this is largely covered in a thread on the Mk V forum, but even the diagram on Maverick's site doesn't seem to match the problem I'm having with my Mk 6.
In a weak (senior?) moment I ordered the RVC and video cable, which has now arrived and I wanted to take the lower hatch trim out in order to start the install.
Can anyone who's done it post a method to separate the upper and lower rear hatch trims at the bottom of the glass on a Mark 6?
I've got mine to the point where all the lower trim clips are loose, but for the life of me I can't find what's holding the top corners just below the glass.
I forced one apart where the two trims clip together (where the tongue on the top section comes up through the tip of the lower trim) and then found it still wouldn't come off -- it's still firmly held somewhere close to the joint between upper and lower trims, just under the glass where it's impossible to see.
I really don't want to break anything -- would never live it down...
Also found I no longer have the physical strength to pull some of the clips out -- had to make up a tool to squeeze some of them in from the top and ease the spring tension.
Don't think I'm really going to enjoy this task.
Any helpful suggestions will be more than welcome.
Hi Idle. I merged your thread into this thread. I know you don't have a MK6 Golf R, but you're trying to achieve the same thing in a regular MK6. I'm sure the answer is somewhere in this thread, or in one of the "guides" linked from this thread.
If the answer isn't, then it should be, so can someone please add it! Cheers
I know this is largely covered in a thread on the Mk V forum, but even the diagram on Maverick's site doesn't seem to match the problem I'm having with my Mk 6.
In a weak (senior?) moment I ordered the RVC and video cable, which has now arrived and I wanted to take the lower hatch trim out in order to start the install.
Can anyone who's done it post a method to separate the upper and lower rear hatch trims at the bottom of the glass on a Mark 6?
I've got mine to the point where all the lower trim clips are loose, but for the life of me I can't find what's holding the top corners just below the glass.
I forced one apart where the two trims clip together (where the tongue on the top section comes up through the tip of the lower trim) and then found it still wouldn't come off -- it's still firmly held somewhere close to the joint between upper and lower trims, just under the glass where it's impossible to see.
I really don't want to break anything -- would never live it down...
Also found I no longer have the physical strength to pull some of the clips out -- had to make up a tool to squeeze some of them in from the top and ease the spring tension.
Don't think I'm really going to enjoy this task.
Any helpful suggestions will be more than welcome.
Hopefully this helps. This is a picture of the inside of the rear hatch trim showing the location of the 12 spring clips (red) and 2 screws (yellow) that you have to undo. The screws are T20 screws.
Take out the access panels for the rear lights, this allows you to get your hand inside the trim and you can feel your way around inside a bit to these locations.
If you think getting it off is fun... just wait till you try to put it back on! Bloody hell that was a pain lining up those 12 clips.
Tweet
Comment