Golf 118 TSI Engine Failures and Service Campaign 24S4

[Sentinel]

Thanks for the advice.

My local mechanic says the computer indicates that Cylinder No. 1 is misfiring at speeds of under 3000 RPM, computer error code P0301 - and it's a VW problem that he can't fix.

I'm taking my vehicle in for warranty service today, so I'll see what the dealer's techs have to say. Unfortunately they have a one-and-a-half week waiting list, and no loan cars available. However, I don't want to drive the car any further than strictly necessary while the engine warning light is on.

[cktsi]

Its the same spark plug as used in the 90TSI. Its just that it has "8EG" added to the end of the part number which means they are gapped to 0.8mm. Just get the normal ones and re-gap them to 0.8mm. VW will charge you a leg and 2 children if you buy them through the dealer.

1x NGK Platinum Spark Plug PZFR6R (575 | eBay

Just out of interest, if anyone decides to go DYI in replacing the plugs, is there a special tool required to remove leads etc?

I remember trying to replace the plugs on my dad's VS commodore and i didnt realise i damaged the leads which were made of some carbon compound. Apparently even that car had a special tool for plug removal. In the end we had to buy new leads and have a qualified mechanic install the new leads.

[RW1]

To remove the spark plugs, the coil packs have to be removed using the Coil Pack Removal Tool T10094A. What ever is the equivalent of £35 UK prices to the A$.

Without it, it is very difficult as the first time, the Coil Packs will held in with thick solid grease used for moisture protection which makes extraction very difficult. It is not advisable to try and pry the Coil Packs out as they will be damaged. Secondly No.1 cylinder Coil Pack is very awkward to remove without the correct extraction tool T10094A or equivalent 3rd party tool.

Plugs just need a long reach extension bar on the standard small plug socket. 25Nm tightening torque.

Transfer as much of the grease as you can to the new plugs. Aids coil pack extraction as well as moisture blocking. Its very expensive high temperature white grease - G052 141 A2 (20g tube).

[Sentinel]

My ongoing 118TSI story:

On 9/11/12 I booked the vehicle in to the service department of a major VW dealer in Sydney. That same day, I was informed that electronic diagnosis had revealed lack of compression on Cylinder No.1, and that the engine would need to be disassembled for further examination. Since it was in a queue, it could be a couple of weeks before that could be done.

I asked if I could get a loan car during that period, but the dealer told me they were all booked out. However, they mentioned that Volkswagen Customer Care might be able to provide a loaner while I waited.

So I rang VW Customer Care. They told me that they might be able to provide a loan car, but before they could, an authorised VW service mechanic would have to certify that the vehicle needed extensive service. I replied that the car was currently with an authorised VW service mechanic, who had informed me that the engine would need to be disassembled, and that this couldn't happen for at least a week and a half. VWCC informed me that they needed confirmation from the mechanic.

So, back to the dealer's mechanic again. It's a big dealer, you'd recognise the name. The mechanic promised to get in touch with VWCC so I could get a loan car. More than once.

Fast forward two and a half weeks. Still no action from the mechanic, still promises to ask VWCC for a loan car, still no loan car. I called VW Customer Care again, and this time I was answered by a fellow called 'Nathan'. He was the first person who actually helped, and I hope his supervisor is reading this.

It turned out that the prominent Sydney VW dealership, despite its repeated promises, had not contacted VW Customer Care at all. Nor, after more than two weeks, had their mechanics actually opened the engine for further examination. Nathan contacted them, and they explained that the bloke assigned to my car was sick, but he'd be back the next day to pull apart the engine and authorise a loan car.

Guess what? Next day that guy was still sick, and there was no loan car authorisation. But Nathan managed to do something, and arranged for a loan car the day after that. It's a nice car - a top-of-the-line Nissan X-Trail with leather seats and automatic adjustment, among other things. Finally, I have wheels again, and I'm happy - patiently waiting for the dealer's service centre to do something. The Nissan is a nice car, but in many ways its finish and presentation falls short of the Golf Comfortline - and it uses about 40% more petrol!

After the first day, for all this time, I had received no communication from the dealer at all. Just silence. Everything I learned about the progress of my car was only a result of my calling them, or someone else, such as Nathan, calling them. Not terribly impressive from the perspective of customer relations.

So, two days ago - exactly four weeks after my 118TSI engine broke down, I called the dealer's service department again. The person who answered was very polite, helpful and informative. He told me that the engine had been pulled apart, and had suffered damage from pre-detonation. It would be reassembled with new pistons, rings, and injectors, which hadn't yet been delivered.

I talked a bit about this, mentioning that I'd only ever used 98RON petrol in the car. This mechanic said that Australian "98" petrol was usually closer to 96RON in real life. Though, the manual says, the 118TSI can run on 95RON - so I don't think the petrol grade should have been a problem.

Anyway, the upshot is that in a week or two, I should have the car back, with many new engine parts and a two-year warranty on the engine service. I'll have to run it in and treat it as a new engine. Also, it will have the latest software upgrade for the DSG.

Does anyone have suggestions about what I should do when I get it back? I love this car, and I don't want it to break down like this again.

Is there any way to prevent pre-detonation, gearbox shudder, and the other problems that seemingly plague this model? Is it worth while getting the APR Stage 1 upgrade, or the aftermarket DSG upgrade, or different spark plugs? Is any brand of "98 octane" fuel better than another?

Any advice would be appreciated. Also, I'm reading through various threads to see what other forum members have to say.

If you've read this far, thank you for your attention.

[Ryan_R]

Your welcome

Sad to hear about your car (what year is it?) and the dealer experiences (it wasn't Chatswood, was it?).

If bad petrol was in fact the problem, then don't go for Stage 1 since that absolutely requires 98-RON. If you're in the middle of nowhere and have to fill up with 95-RON you're advised to turn off the tune.

I haven't had engine problems (only once I got a misfire error but no problems since), but have battling with the DSG and after spending quite a bit of money have got it running very nicely. As you say you wonder whether to upgrade and avoid any potential future issues but then the thought of leaving that fantastic twin charged engine (asp when running Stage 1) seems unbearable.

[Sentinel]

Your welcome

Sad to hear about your car (what year is it?) and the dealer experiences (it wasn't Chatswood, was it?).

My car is a MY2011, purchased in November 2010. The dealer wasn't in Chatswood ... but another part of Sydney.

If bad petrol was in fact the problem, then don't go for Stage 1 since that absolutely requires 98-RON. If you're in the middle of nowhere and have to fill up with 95-RON you're advised to turn off the tune.

I don't actually think bad petrol was the problem. That's just something the mechanic said. I live in Sydney, and I've always used top-grade petrol - mostly BP Ultimate. I think he was just making excuses for the engine damage.

I haven't had engine problems (only once I got a misfire error but no problems since), but have battling with the DSG and after spending quite a bit of money have got it running very nicely. As you say you wonder whether to upgrade and avoid any potential future issues but then the thought of leaving that fantastic twin charged engine (asp when running Stage 1) seems unbearable.

I don't want to leave that engine. I'm just asking if the APR upgrade would help? Or the DSG upgrade (can't remember what it's called), or spark plugs or anything else.

I love this car, and I want to keep it. I just want to make sure it's reliable. If you've got yours running very nicely, I'd like to know how you did it.

Mine ran nicely for the first year, but then started to have problems. Now that I'm getting a partly-new engine, I'd love to avoid those problems.

[Ryan_R]

Well have you got an hour?

I bought my MY10 118TSI just over 2 years ago second hand, came with beige leather seats as the only ticked option. Since then, I've installed the following:

RNS510 with multiple formware and maps upgrades since then
9W3 Premium Bluetooth
APR Stage 1 with security lockout
(Purchased a VCDS cable)
MDI
Rear mudflaps
GTI debadged steering wheel
GTI metal pedals
OEM reversing camera
Maniacs DSG paddle extensions
Upgraded to 9W7 Premium Bluetooth
Clutch pack replacement under warranty
Front window weather shields
DSG mechatronics replacement under warranty
2 years extended VW warranty
Guy Harding's DSG tune
Torque Arm Insert
PolarFIS Advanced +
Audi S3 Intercooler (not yet installed)




I *think* that's everything Possibly I have one of the most unique 118TSI's around. No idea how I'd go when it eventually does come time to sell. I can see why I gave up having mods listed in my signature now

[parso_rex]

Borrow someones vagcom cable and get the car logged to see if its running correctly with minimal knock and decent AFR's. What a terrible VW experience

[Sentinel]

Ryan R - That's way out of my league. I'm interested in first of all just making sure this doesn't happen again, and secondly perhaps getting an APR Stage 1 and/or a DSG tune at some point.

parso_rex - That's an interesting idea. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who's into that level of VW skill.

Actually, getting a professional to check it out after it comes back from the dealer might be the best way to go. The link in your signature could be just what I need, and it's not even very far away ...

[brad]

I don't actually think bad petrol was the problem. That's just something the mechanic said. I live in Sydney, and I've always used top-grade petrol - mostly BP Ultimate. I think he was just making excuses for the engine damage.

A mate of mine was having idling/CEL issues with his 77TSI. The dealer claimed his fuel was bad. He asked for a sample to send to the manufacturer for analysis as he had only filled ever filled with 98ron from the same manufacturer & he showed the dealer his collection of fuel receipts. The dealer went very quiet after that.

I'm not even sure that the workshop has an inhouse means of testing the octane of the fuel.

From my experience, the dealership will try & offload responsibility for problems to anyone but themselves / VW.

[Sentinel]

Brad - That sounds about right to me.

Even if the dealer's claims were true - that Australian premium fuel is 96 octane at best - that's still better than the minimum 95 RON recommended by the owner's manual.

I'm not very impressed by the dealer at all. However, VW Customer Care actually helped me, which is something.

I still love Volkswagen, but any car I buy in the future won't come from that specific place.

[ziggyboy]

Brad - That sounds about right to me.

Even if the dealer's claims were true - that Australian premium fuel is 96 octane at best - that's still better than the minimum 95 RON recommended by the owner's manual.

I'm not very impressed by the dealer at all. However, VW Customer Care actually helped me, which is something.

I still love Volkswagen, but any car I buy in the future won't come from that specific place.

My experience with 2 VW dealerships for aftersales support have not been the best. Wouldn't say they were awful but definitely below average compared to dealerships I have dealt with before (Toyota, Mitsubishi, Honda). I've had my clutch kit replaced, complained about my squealing engine on acceleration to 2 dealerships. One said they couldn't hear it, another didn't do anything at all like it was ignored and fixed some other problem. The problem has been confirmed though but people here and even a friend of mine who works for VW but for some reason the dealerships probably think I can live with it and chooses to ignore it.

I've gotten too tired to go back, maybe sometime in 2013 when I'm a little bit more energised after the holidays. Instead of VW warranty causing hassle free motoring it causes me more grief and heartache. I'm gonna have to think about how to tell them about my problem as it seems to be an art to get VW mechanics to even start believing in you. Any tips? It's like they expect every person coming in for warranty repairs to be fraudsters.

[Ryan_R]

Type up a detailed explanation of what faults exist and when they occur/how to replicate them and leave it in the car for the technician to read (rather than hoping that the service desk person accurately conveys everything)

[gavs]

Golf 118 TSI Engine Failures: Resolved via Service Campaign 24S4

I must say it is interesting to read all of these issues because the recent annual customer satisfaction surveys on vehicle manufacturers came out a couple of weeks ago and surprise surprise, guess who came in last of the major brands.

Customers cited issues such as lying and deceitful behavior as well as a total lack of after sales support after vehicle purchase as well as the product not living up to the expectations of the customer based on the image of the brand conveyed through their marketing ploys.

[AdamD]

I must say it is interesting to read all of these issues because the recent annual customer satisfaction surveys on vehicle manufacturers came out a couple of weeks ago and surprise surprise, guess who came in last of the major brands.

Here's a link:

Toyota, Honda top Australian vehicle service satisfaction survey