Golf 118 TSI Engine Failures and Service Campaign 24S4

[logger]

I found out more today. They pulled the engine out to strip it down.
The piston on cylinder 3 is damaged. On Monday they need to check the bore. If not damaged, then they only replace the piston.
If the bore isn't serviceable, then I'll get a new engine.

Definitely push for the latter. 2 years genuine parts warranty on the entire engine is worth having & you'll get a new waterpump S/charger clutch (another problematic part). Will take longer to get the car back, but you will be covered for the next 2 years. OTOH get it repaired by quickest method and trade.

[JonoB]

Looks like I'm getting the pistons and injector replaced according to the dealer.
They said they were going to confirm that the bores were not damaged to decide if they could repair the engine.

Still, another 10 day wait for my car.

[rockDAhouse]

jeez bro, i hope u get your car fix asap. If my car die again, i hope is not the engine ...

[ziggyboy]

Hey can I ask whether of you having problems have got 2011-built cars? It seems a lot of the 118TSI cars having problems are mainly early 2010 and earlier. I haven't really read any problems with 2011 and 2012 cars (and it's already August 2012)... especially engines just "dying" after only a few thousand k's....

If so can anyone point me to a link of a thread anywhere around the world where 2011/2012 118TSI's have been having engines replaced?

[hentaiboy]

My 118 TSI was stopped at traffic lights yesterday when the idle became lumpy and the engine warning light started flashing. Corrected itself after about 20 seconds. I'll do an error scan tonight - what should I be looking for?

[Ryan_R]

Faults in the first (engine) module

[hentaiboy]

Faults in the first (engine) module

Here's my log. Should I be concerned about a one-off?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine (CAV) Labels: 03C-906-027-CAV.clb
Part No SW: 03C 906 027 BA HW: 03C 906 027 F
Component: MED17.5.5 G 5860
Revision: L1H08--- Serial number:
Coding: 0000077
Shop #: WSC 01016 959 86335
VCID: 61CDA1B7C1D9

2 Faults Found:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 46065 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2101.14.16
Time: 11:09:04

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 683 /min
Load: 16.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 72.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

000771 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
P0303 - 000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 46065 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2101.14.16
Time: 11:09:04

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 683 /min
Load: 16.9 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 72.0°C
Temperature: 22.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V

Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Ryan_R]

I'd be mentioning the misfire to the dealer. Don't clear the fault or they'll have nothing to see.

[RW1]

When was the misfire - when warming up or at running temperature?
How long after cold start?
How dry is the humidity and at what outside air temperature (rough figures)?

[hentaiboy]

When was the misfire - when warming up or at running temperature?
How long after cold start?
How dry is the humidity and at what outside air temperature (rough figures)?

Car had only been driven a couple of km from cold start. Not yet fully warmed up. About 20 degrees, 60%.

[RW1]

I suspect you have the cold start misfire problem. Its the one not covered by the first issue of 24s4 which you have loaded, ie. map 5860 in your Address 01 dump.

Two options:

-----------

1) Go to the dealers and tell them the misfire logged is during warm-up. Your ECU 5860 map does not cover a certain set of conditions during warm-up where a known misfire can occur. The latest map 9660 is the rectification for this on DSG (was partly rectified with map 8913 which superceded 5860). They had to further tweek the map on the DSG only to 9660. (Manual gearbox ECUs need latest map 1676 or previous 0888 loaded to cover this misfire.)

The reason the misfire occurs is because there is a slight reduction in fuelling at the mid warm-up period ahead of the engine being ready for it under certain warm air conditions. So effectively, the mixture goes too weak for the running conditions momentarily as it passes 35'C -ish coolant temp. Lasts about 10 to 20 seconds depending on how idling/driving. Ask the dealer to look at TPI-2023712/3.

It will not help that the spark plugs fitted will be above 0.80mm. So consider replacing/adjusting them as below. This is not part of the TPI, so is not warranty covered.

---------------

2) Alternatively, shortening the spark plug gap to 0.70mm - 0.75mm overcomes the problem entirely. Doing this also leads to a much smoother and calmer running engine. The nearest the dealer can do is fit the new 1.4TSI 118Kw revised NGK plug 03C 905 601A VW have introduced. (NGK - PZFR6R8EG) which has a plug gap of 0.80mm. This is because dealers do not gap plugs on fitting.

IMO the gap of 0.80mm doesn't quite go far enough but is a step in the right direction for it to stand alone without the revised ECU map if you cannot get the gap adjusted to 0.70mm. This plug change is not covered in the TPI referenced above. Been running this reduced gap for the last two years without any further warm-up problems and still run map 5860. Had very bad conditions for it from April to July this year. Not a murmur out of the engine nor did it happen after I did the adjustments in late 2010. I initially ran 0.75mm plug gap late 2010/2011, but now run 0.70mm since late 2011.

Left wheel spin has also gone when setting off, even in the wet. Front tyre wear has been reduced considerably. And an added benefit is the 7spd DSG works better because the engine output torque is smoother. DSG is holds gears better rather than change under certain town traffic driving. ie. used to use D4, now it will use D6 very happily.

-------------------

[hentaiboy]

Wow - detailed analysis! I'll try the plugs. Cheers.

[regu]

Hi RW1,

I have read about your change in the gap for the sparkplugs before. Is is only applicable to the 118TSI as I have some rough idle / misfire at startup (the first 10-15 seconds when the engine is reving a bit higher) and the eingine is also pinging under load going uphill in 3rd
The car has been to the shop 3 times but they can't find a fault. So I am thinking this would be a good start to play around with the spark plugs or a revised version if available for the 90TSI .

Thanks.

regu

[RW1]

Wow - detailed analysis! I'll try the plugs. Cheers.

If you are going to do it yourself, be warned the coil packs are in tight. Not to be levered out with a screw driver as the coil electronics can be damaged as a lot of force is needed, even if previously removed. The tool is T10094A - VW Coil Pack Puller Tool (for 1.4TSI Coil Packs) – £34.80 inc. VAT in the UK. The local VW Parts Dept. will order it cos you can provide the part number without them searching.

Alternatively, make a multi-wire hand wrap around the coil pack head where the VW tool slots in and use that to distriute the pulling load as you pull the pack. Once initially released off the plug, disconnect the coil pack connector. Then continue to raise and remove the coil pack.

No1 cylinder (right side - alternator end) needs the oil breather pipe moving out of the way by releasing the two small Torx T30 bolts (torque - 10Nm). The pipe will still need wedging out of the way or held by an assistant while you access and pull the coil pack. Plugs are 25Nm torque tightening.

And try and remove and transfer as much of the grease from the old plugs to the new. Its expensive to buy, the part number is G052 141 A2 20g tube at about £20 in the UK. Needs about 2g per coil pack/spark plug to do the job properly.

Hi RW1,
I have read about your change in the gap for the sparkplugs before. Is is only applicable to the 118TSI as I have some rough idle / misfire at startup (the first 10-15 seconds when the engine is reving a bit higher) and the eingine is also pinging under load going uphill in 3rd
The car has been to the shop 3 times but they can't find a fault. So I am thinking this would be a good start to play around with the spark plugs or a revised version if available for the 90TSI .
Thanks.
regu

Hmmm going a bit off topic as this is not 24s4 related. Plugs don't sound like the solution to your problem. I need you to put up an up to date VCDS Autoscan for Address 01 engine ECU (in full) like hentaiboy's above to understand where the garage has got to with the ECU. If you put the above query and the VCDS Autoscan up as a separate topic, I will have a look.

[regu]

Thanks RW1,
I will try to get a read-out from the dealer and will post it in a new tread.
Cheers,
regu