Tips for breaking in a brand new engine?

[GTI4fun]

So i'm picking up my GTI this mon. and driving it back to QLD, will be going through pac hgwy. Since its a long distance for a new car breaking in wise is there anything i should and or shouldnt do while on the way back???

[AdamD]

So i'm picking up my GTI this mon. and driving it back to QLD, will be going through pac hgwy. Since its a long distance for a new car breaking in wise is there anything i should and or shouldnt do while on the way back???

Read this thread first. There's a ton of good advice in here.

I posted this in reply to a post by another member in a similar situation.

[WhiteJames]

Oil Sludge and Synthetic Oil

How oil does its job

Motor oil is a refined base stock with chemical additives. These additives work to suspend contaminants, inhibit corrosion, coat metal parts, keep viscosity stable, and slow oxidation.

As you drive, the combustion process allows small amounts of unburned fuel to escape into the oiling system which causes oil contamination. Contaminants are handled by:

■oil additives, which suspend and contain the contaminants to prevent damage to metal engine parts
■the oil filter, which captures large particles that are suspended by the additives
■the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) uses a vapor separator to capture the lighter, gaseous contaminants and recirculate them back to the combustion process while the heavier contaminants drain down into the oil pan. So not only is the PCV system an important emissions device, but it's also crucial to keeping your motor oil clean.

As contaminants build up, the oil base itself starts to oxidize and turns the familiar red-brown color of worn-out oil. If not changed promptly, your engine is irreversibly damaged by chemical reactions, heat, and friction.

What makes synthetic oil superior to conventional oil?

I recommend synthetic motor oil to all my customers to prevent sludge. Why?

Synthetic motor oil is made from a blend of mineral oil, natural gas, and special additives. Because this blend is extremely pure from the beginning, it can withstand more torture in your vehicle's engine.

Synthetic lubricants cost just slightly more than conventional oils, but offer the best engine protection because:

■synthetics remain stable at high temperatures (conventional oils break down faster at today's higher engine temps)
■synthetics remain fluid at very low temperatures (conventional oils thicken)
■additive packages are formulated with special chemicals for top cleaning and anti-oxidant protection

Remember, you can switch to synthetics on any car regardless of age or previous motor oil. If your vehicle has been acting up, have your technician check for sludge.

See link for more on the above:

Second Opinion: Oil Sludge: an expensive but preventable disaster

Cheers
WJ

[prise]

The VW 504.00 / 507.00 long life service interval oil spec is one of the highest out there in terms of protection against wear, sludge, piston deposits and oxidation. The following link enables you to compare the different manufacturer and industry association oil specs. I wouldn't be putting anything other than a 504/507 oil in my vehicle and as far as I know all Oz VW dealers are using this spec for the newer vehicles even though we do not run long life service intervals in this country.

dataStack

This spec wasn't issued until 2004 and addressed the sludge problems encountered with early generation FSI engines.

[hooba]

Holy thread revival Batman!

Came across this, it covers some keenly discussed points in this thread.

New Car Care – How to Take Care of a New Car - Popular Mechanics

[WhiteJames]

Agree with the statements in the article about using internal cylinder compression to force out the piston rings to aid in shaving down any peaks or troughs along the cylinder bore. My GTI has done a almost 11,000km in 4 months since leaving the dealership with 90% of driving outside urban areas with turbo continually spooled up – Not a drop of oil used to date – Dipstick level same as it was on first day of ownership. Highest oil temp I’ve seen is 114 degrees Celsius on a steep hill climb.

Cheers
WJ

[REXman]

So i'm picking up my GTI this mon. and driving it back to QLD, will be going through pac hgwy. Since its a long distance for a new car breaking in wise is there anything i should and or shouldnt do while on the way back???

Hey mate congrats on the car arrival! Short answer to your question, keep the revs varied as possible so you don't sit on the same amount of revs for extended periods while wearing in the new motor. Maybe check your oil levels before you leave, halfway, and final destination. Enjoy the drive!

[WhiteJames]

In colder climates, the engine oil should be changed often. If motorcycle is used frequently for short trips, less than 15 miles (24 kilometers), in ambient temperatures below 60° F (16° C), oil change intervals should be reduced to 1500 miles (2400 kilometers). Motorcycles used only for short runs must have a thorough tank flush-out before new oil is put in. See an authorized dealer.

NOTE:

The further below freezing the temperature drops, the shorter the oil change interval should be.

Water vapor is a normal by-product of combustion in any engine. During cold weather operation, some of the water vapor condenses to liquid form on the cool metal surfaces inside the engine. In freezing weather this water will become slush or ice and, if allowed to accumulate too long, may block the oil lines and cause damage to the engine.

If the engine is run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, most of this water will become vapor again and will be blown out through the crankcase breather.

If the engine is not run frequently and allowed to thoroughly warm up, this water will accumulate, mix with the engine oil and form a sludge that is harmful to the engine.

A friend sent me the above article from source on his work-site. Relates to motorbikes and is relevant to cars. My GTI has clocked 14,000km in 5.5 mths with @ 90% country driving - Oil level still the same as the day I bought the vehicle, which will go in for it's first service - 6mths @ 15,000km.

Cheers.
WJ

[WhiteJames]

No oil used in 15,000km/6mths

15,000km/6mth service on my GTI was completed on the Golf GTI this week. I checked the oil dipstick level prior to the service – the oil level has not changed in 6 mths – no oil used in 15,000km of 80-90% country/freeway /hill-climb driving. Bear in mind short trips of less than 25km are rarely done. Most drives involve an hour or so of driving, which help keep the motor in its ideal operating range. Local service manager is saying that Volkswagen are warning against interim services where the mineral oil is discarded in favour of synthetic oil to the extent they will void warranties.

The Mark 6 GTI was also tracking straight and true despite a lot of rougher country roadways driven on. Wheel alignment & tyre rotation was done regardless. Tyre wear on the Bridgestone RE050A has been excellent so far – RE050A are softer and quieter than the RE001 Bridgestone Potenza Asymmetrical that are cheaper to buy and are not fitted as OE as are the RE050A. The RE001 have stiffer sidewalls & ouert tread row, which is composed from a different rubber compound from the rest of the inner tyre – helps prevent positive camber tyre roll of the outside tyres when cornering.

The B-pillar clicking noise that I have experienced required an adjustment of the front door strikers (whatever they are?) – although this problem was very seldom occurring. The passenger’s seat rattle when unoccupied involved resecuring the front seat trim. The exhaust/waste-gate resonation has not been as apparent over the last few thousands km’s.

Cheers
WJ

[mfl]

1/2 litre of oil used in 20,000km,

99% city driving, 20 to 40min trips, dealer finally fixed oil turbo leak after 2 requests, wonder if that may change the oil consumption?

[brad]

Tyre wear on the Bridgestone RE050A has been excellent so far – RE050A are softer and quieter than the RE001 Bridgestone Potenza Asymmetrical that are cheaper to buy and are not fitted as OE as are the RE050A. The RE001 have stiffer sidewalls & ouert tread row, which is composed from a different rubber compound from the rest of the inner tyre – helps prevent positive camber tyre roll of the outside tyres when cornering.

that is the total opposite to any other comparison between RE050A & RE001 I have ever heard. Have had 5 mates go from RE050A to RE001 & all have commented on the better/quieter ride of the RE001 (but RE050A has more grip & responds more quickly to steering inputs)

[WhiteJames]

Manufacturers do not use the RE001 on their brand new vehicles as they offer less ride comfort and more noise. From Holden - Ford - Volkswagen - BMW: All opt for the RE050A from factory as it meets OEM specs re: noise & comfort. RE050A are usually @ $100 more in price than the RE001. The RE001 is like a harder GT3 Porsche - the RE050A are like a std softer Carrera Porsche.
Cheers
WJ

[prise]

that is the total opposite to any other comparison between RE050A & RE001 I have ever heard. Have had 5 mates go from RE050A to RE001 & all have commented on the better/quieter ride of the RE001 (but RE050A has more grip & responds more quickly to steering inputs)

A new set of tyres nearly always gives a better/quieter ride than the old worn set due to the mechanical properties of the extra tread thickness and less aged rubber compound. Any comparison has to be new/new to be valid.

[Transporter]

Guys, if you want to discuss the tyres in this thread, then start a new thread and I will happily move the posts you made in a new thread.

[dzeRnumbrd]

probably mentioned before, but for anyone interested -> Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

i ran my old WRX in this way, seemed to work pretty good