Tips for breaking in a brand new engine?

[Corey_R]

It is spot on.
It takes longer to warm up engine while idling on the spot and longer engine idles, more unburned fuel enters the sump and degrades the oil. I let the engine idle for 20-30s and then drive gently until the engine is at operating temperature.

Thanks for the info Transporter. So that explains why all car manufacturers require their cars to be serviced in shorter intervals if the car is subject to lots of idling, because the oil goes to crap quicker!
Yeah, I turn my car on, and as soon as the idle has dropped from ~1000rpm to ~700rpm, I gently drive away. As far as I'm concerned, you don't need any light - that's how VW is letting you know the car is ready to drive away

[pologti18t]

Thanks for the info Transporter. So that explains why all car manufacturers require their cars to be serviced in shorter intervals if the car is subject to lots of idling, because the oil goes to crap quicker!
Yeah, I turn my car on, and as soon as the idle has dropped from ~1000rpm to ~700rpm, I gently drive away. As far as I'm concerned, you don't need any light - that's how VW is letting you know the car is ready to drive away

I get in the car, start the engine, tune the radio, put seatbelt on and drive off. Engine warms up much quicker when driven.

[G-rig]

I noticed on the MK6 the oil temp doesn't display a figure on the MFD for a while (~5 minutes). What is a reasonable operating oil temp when you can start caining it? 70-80 deg?

[ddre78]

I noticed on the MK6 the oil temp doesn't display a figure on the MFD for a while (~5 minutes). What is a reasonable operating oil temp when you can start caining it? 70-80 deg?

Im not sure if its a time thing or if it just doesnt read below 50c. I notice that it always starts to display at 50c,51c,52c etc.

[WhiteJames]

Not much point in having the Golf sitting stationary idling. They’re built to be driven straight away. Driving off ASAP allows oil pressure to build up & a bit of friction also generates heat. Best not to rev it much more than 2500rpm for GTI, not until the coolant & oil come up to temps. I leave the DSG in Auto until temps warm up. We’re not taxi drivers that keep their cab motor warm 24/7 and achieve up to 500,000km from a motor.

The driver’s manual states that after working the motor hard, whether it be high revs or excessive load, the driver should idle the motor for 2 minutes to allow temps to normalise prior to switching off the motor. I like to coast in Auto and for this time of year, try to have engine oil temp drop to 95 degrees Celsius prior to shut down.

The MKV/MKVI GTI motor does automatically run the pump & fans after shut down to cool the motor as no air is circulating around the engine bay. The owner’s manual indicates this.

In the 1980’s, the Nissan Turbo Group A and earlier Nissan Skyline Turbo race cars would have the turbo give up after the first pit stop. In racing, the motor has to be shut off for the pit stop, and in those 30 seconds, the engine bay temp sky rocket without any air-cooling, causing damage.

The owner’s manual also states that when put in neutral, the DSG gearbox oil pump switches off. Never coast the DSG GTI down a hill in neutral – the gearbox will seize from lack of oil.

The DSG is designed to be a sealed unit with wet clutches that should last the life of the motor. Wet clutches are designed to slip.

The run in period for the MK6 GTI is 15,000km. This is the phase where mineral oil has to be used. Dealer gave me a warning in case I was going to do a DIY oil change between services.

I found that once you change to synthetic oil, the GTI uses a bit more oil. The super slipperiness of the synthetic oil may allow for some of it to pass over the piston rings and be burnt up. If your GTI drinks a bit of mineral oil, it’s going to use more synthetic oil imo.

Transport mode has the Golf restricted to 4,000rpm.

4,000rpm max revs for run in period is not that far from 5500rpm, where it’s advantageous to change up gear in the GTI as turbo boost is trailing off.


95 degrees for time of year in Sydney seems to be the lowest easy driving temp for the TSI motor. So 95 degrees is what I'd be aiming for prior to leaning on the TSI motor.

Cheers.
WJ

[Corey_R]

I get in the car, start the engine, tune the radio, put seatbelt on and drive off. Engine warms up much quicker when driven.

I start the car, put my bag in the back, get in the car, and do the rest like you. By the time I've done those things, the idle drops... so it's only a 30 second thing

[G-rig]

Cheers WJ.

Im not sure if its a time thing or if it just doesnt read below 50c. I notice that it always starts to display at 50c,51c,52c etc.

I'll have to take more notice, you are probably right!

[Transporter]

Here is why you should still idle the engine before you switch it off after long hard drive.

What is a reasonable operating oil temp when you can start caining it? 70-80 deg?

It used to be 70 deg. for mineral oil for the anti-wear additives to be active. But modern synthetic oils should protect the engine right from cold.

[G-rig]

Here is why you should still idle the engine before you switch it off after long hard drive.

Nice thread you have there! I think if you take it easy driving home for the last few minutes for example, and leave the engine idle for a minute or so should be ok. Around town isn't really like doing laps on the track (for me anyway).

[REXman]

Out of interest, what make & model is your girlfriends car? And how long does that blue light stay on for a typical cold start?

Its just a Mazda MPS, 2009 model. It stays on for about 3 mins then turns off when the car is warm.. I guess enough. to go?

[REXman]

Maybe 5-6 mins if its freezing~!!

[Corey_R]

Is this light you speak of a standard feature? If so, what does it say in the owners manual about it?

The reason I ask is, I've checked the (USA) owners manual for the MPS3 and the MPS6 and cannot find any mention of this light.
In their starting procedures, both say to start the car, wait for 10 seconds, and then proceed to drive.
Both do have a mention that "in extremely cold weather" (for which they define that as below -18c) to let the car warm up without the use of the accelerator, so to me that would indicate a longer idle time, but that situation does not count for Australia.
In that same section they also said that you should do this if the car hasn't been driven for many days.
Both mention to avoid long warmups. One the engine is running smoothly to drive off. (So, I would assume that with Mazdas, the engine is running smoothly as soon as the idle rpm drops from its initial elevated rpm to it's regular idle rpm - just like most other road cars).
Specifically in relation to the turbo they only mention to not shut the car down too quickly after you've been at freeway speeds or driving up long hills or "racing the engine".

So I'd be interested to know more - because from the information I can see in the manuals for the car, you are doing exactly what they recommend against!

[REXman]

What more can I say about it, its a standard feature. The dealer even mentioned it to us when we were buying it a better way than waiting for the temp gauge. Not sure about the manuals you are checking, but it is what it is.

Do you have the car also?

Its a blue light that come's on, and the idea is, when the blue light switches off, you go. You should'nt be driving off really before that. But ofcourse you always have the option to.

[REXman]

And I believe we have already seen info about warming the car down being effective..

It does seem that It might not be a bad idea to take that little bit of extra care after all IMO.

[hooba]

Its a blue light that come's on, and the idea is, when the blue light switches off, you go. You should'nt be driving off really before that. But ofcourse you always have the option to.

Doesn't the manual say to drive it carefully and avoid high revs whilst the blue light is on, and once it is off, you can thrash it?