just picked up R32 #42 :D

[2000MN]

034 Motorsport have a newly designed dogbone mount which looks the goods

DLI Tecnik in Denmark? Do some pretty stella side mounts.

Vibratechnics (I think that's how you spell it) do side mounts which I believe are the same design as VWR mounts?

[2times]

DLI Tecnik in Denmark? Do some pretty stella side mounts.

(I think that's how you spell it) do side mounts which I believe are the same design as VWR mounts?

those DLI mounts look crazy! theyre just a giant springs in the middle! theyre interesting ill give you that!

the 034 dogbone loks awesome! ill probably end up getting that and vibratechnics for side mounts.
i wasnt expecting mounts to be so pricy, so theyll have to wait for now as i just ordered most of my brake stuff
thanks for the tips 2000!

[2times]

been having trouble with car starting at low fuel, less then half a tank. it starts but only after cranking the key a bit, and when it does cold just goes to normal idle.
was told its a fuel pump priming. pump doesnt prime when door is open but if i swing the door a few times it primes.

ill be working on the car tomorrow, dog bone inserts, besides the relay is there anything else i can check/test while im at it? anyone else had this issue?

[14nce]

[QUOTE=2times;1016826]been having trouble with car starting at low fuel, less then half a tank. it starts but only after cranking the key a bit, and when it does cold just goes to normal idle.
was told its a fuel pump priming. pump doesnt prime when door is open but if i swing the door a few times it primes.

QUOTE]

My car does the same if I jump in and crank it straigh away.

If I turn the key to On, you can hear the fuel pump prime, when that stops the car will fire straight up when its cranked

[2times]

If I turn the key to On, you can hear the fuel pump prime, when that stops the car will fire straight up when its cranked

ive been doing that, but i cant hear any priming. i get a reading in the guage but dont get the priming sound, and trying to force it to prime with the key doesnt always help [particularly when it is getting close to empty.

forgot to mention, i have epc light on when trying to key prime, but disappears when engine fires up.

should i just bite the bullet and replace relay 409, or is there a better common solution?

[2times]

dog bone bushings went in today with out any mechanical hassle, i did buy the wrong torque wrench yesterday and get another one delivered, but besides that went in with no fuss. its not a huge amount of difference but you can feel it, for me engine braking has been the biggest improvement.

[2times]

so after doing some poking around with my fuel problem today i dicovered that i had unknowingly tapped the fuel pump fuse #28 when i put my 3way flapper switch in. swapped it out to another spot and now i have key priming which is good. worked out my dorr micro switch is the problem for auto priming, never elaised because lights always come on cause i use the key so now micro switch diy time
but no, since my drive home from work, i get a weird gurgling noise when car car is hut off, i assume its fuel return, but its a weird noise i have never encountered from any car. i recorded on my phone to post in here but cant seem to work out how haha. any thoughts on this one?

[JustCruisn]

Is your fuel tank really full ?
I notice gurgling noise when very full, it goes away after driving 60km or so.

[2times]

thanks cruisn! you were right, it did disappear. and now so did my key priming on the pump lol. from what ican find on the interwebs it seems my relay and micro door switch are both cactus. i checked out a couple of diys for it but im cbf to stuff around with the power windows and all that jazz.
anyone had this done at the stealership? any idea on price to replace door lock module? ill swap relay and fuse my self, relay is already in the post

[JustCruisn]

.
anyone had this done at the stealership? any idea on price to replace door lock module? ill swap relay and fuse my self, relay is already in the post

You are not going to like the answer.
Lock from dealer will push $300 easy, then labour at $150+ per hour.

There really is no messing with the power windows. Once the door card is off you need to loosen the window reg bolts, drop the window down a bit and pull the glass out of the door frame.
Next undo the 2 star bolts for the door module - you need to get the correct tool.
Unplug all electrical connectors.
Undo all the 10mm bolts around the door insert.
Pull the whole inner plate off the door frame, it will still hold the lock module, window motor and slides, speaker etc.

A simple test for the lock module - when you open the driver's door does the interior light come on, does the light at the bottom of the door come on ? If both of these are OK then I'd say the lock is OK.

I know that when reassembling the door trim, once I plug in the bottom door light connector it triggers the fuel pump. So maybe check that 1st, if you get interior light but not door light then check the bulb for the door light.

[robbie]

Have you checked fuel pressure regulator? That controls the fuel return.
On Mk4 it is on fuel rail but Mk5 is near the filter I'm pretty sure.

If that's faulty you won't have any pressure at the injectors it will just go back into tank.

Could also be.... The fuel circuit starts and ends at the pump, so that's where I'd start my investigation first.

It could be the anti drain-back valve sticking partially open, hence the poor fire up time and the noises.

[2times]

It could be the anti drain-back valve sticking partially open, hence the poor fire up time and the noises.

i initially thought it was a fuel return problem because of start up, but im pretty sure it is just relay and door switch related because the car runs fine and the pump doesnt sound weird or anything once it starts up.

You are not going to like the answer.
Lock from dealer will push $300 easy, then labour at $150+ per hour.

There really is no messing with the power windows. Once the door card is off you need to loosen the window reg bolts, drop the window down a bit and pull the glass out of the door frame.
Next undo the 2 star bolts for the door module - you need to get the correct tool.
Unplug all electrical connectors.
Undo all the 10mm bolts around the door insert.
Pull the whole inner plate off the door frame, it will still hold the lock module, window motor and slides, speaker etc.

A simple test for the lock module - when you open the driver's door does the interior light come on, does the light at the bottom of the door come on ? If both of these are OK then I'd say the lock is OK.

I know that when reassembling the door trim, once I plug in the bottom door light connector it triggers the fuel pump. So maybe check that 1st, if you get interior light but not door light then check the bulb for the door light.

oh man, thats a bit much. do they really charge 150 an hour? i might see if exotic cars can do it, they did my timing chains and i was happy with their work. ill call them monday and try to get a quote.

im not getting any door light, or interior lights when door is open nothing what so ever happens haha. so door micro switch is most likely kaput. im going to check the wiring i messed around with when i did my flapper switch just to make sure i havent severed anything. but atm nothing happens when doors opens.
i know the relay is gone also. when i pull out fuse #28 and replace it i get key priming but only once it doesnt happen again. so when circuit resets the relay goes back to its normal position and its fine once current is apllied it locks done again and doesnt go back to normal position so i know that is gone too.

step 1 check wiring, step 2 if wiring is fine gets quotes because im lazy.

but another question, im most likely going to replace my MAF also in the coming months if this fuel scenario doesnt fix my economy, are the bosch and oes maf's ecs have as good as a genuine one? or is it important to fork out the extra pennies for vw maf?
it was my understanding bosch was a good reliable brand? but theyre the cheapest?

[2times]

did some more investigating today. all the wires i messed with trying to do my flapper switch are still soldered together so theres no issues there. there is a couple more problems i discovered aswell, which is really effing irritating!
firstly, next to relay 409 there seems to be a missing relay? is there supposed to be something in this spot? if so, what does it do, and which relay is it?

next problem is i randomly have oil like stuff on my drivers side grill. i have no idea where it came from? or why its there? i pulled off the grill to find somesort of drain hole looking thing there with what looks like to be old oil. am i missing some sort of bung or what? and does anyone know why there is oil like stuff there? is it coolant or powersteering fluid or what? i checked my fluids today and nothing is running low... this is both worrying and confusing for me?




any help will be much appreciated!

merry christmas

[2000MN]

That threaded hole is for the tow hook mate

Oily residue could be just spilt coolant etc?? I don't think there are any oil lines running in that area so it wouldn't be that..

[JustCruisn]

tow hook thread, the oily stuff could be old thread lubricant.
That area of the car collects all kinds of crap, when it rains you'll get oily water forced in there from the road spray. The water will dry, the oil will stay and collect dust etc.
Give it a good degrease and clean it off, see how long it takes to get mucky again.