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I had a blown low beam, so put a high beam in for the interim so as to be as safe as possible.
Went to Autobarn on Sunday to get some H4 globes as that was the first option in the manual. There were to options of H1 and H4 and "dual headlight system" or words to that effect. I elected to go the H4 with the 60/55. Wrong. Needed the H1.
I elected to go with Phillips Crystal Vision which cost me $100 just for Low beam. Something I am marginally annoyed about is that the parkers are a different fitting to the ones I have at present. Will sort that out soon enough though.
As I needed to play around with the lights (first time since ownership) I got to discover that the small plastic moulds holding the whole internal assembley are broken, which I can only assume means my lights are not focused/secure at all, even though I have not noticed any "poor performance" of the lights at all.
So stimulus may be new lights or get in contact with Robin....hmmm
I elected to go with Phillips Crystal Vision which cost me $100 just for Low beam. Something I am marginally annoyed about is that the parkers are a different fitting to the ones I have at present. Will sort that out soon enough though.
They look pretty but IMO they put out less light, still, they look pretty
As for the parkers, I ghetto modded the push type bulbs that come with the kit into some bayonet caps I had from dead bulbs (see, this is why you don't throw anything out... ever ).
If it has an engine or heartbeat it's going to cost you.
They look pretty but IMO they put out less light, still, they look pretty
As for the parkers, I ghetto modded the push type bulbs that come with the kit into some bayonet caps I had from dead bulbs (see, this is why you don't throw anything out... ever ).
Haha cheeky boy, I can see the car in the opposite driveway now though??
Yes I know I keep missing the plate. It's bent from some twat with a tow ball aswell
JOM coils were ordered, and arrived in 6 days from payment.
I got quotes for fitting from a few places locally, ranging from around 280-350with a wheel alignment needed on top of that. My estimate was 3 hours work...
Well I started the job at about 8.40 this morning and the job still isn't done. A mate that is an apprentice aircraft technician at BAE systems offered to give me a hand, certainly easier on the pocket and a chance to learn a deal more about my car also.
We had a quick scour through the manual, had a look at the surroundings and thought, let's do it.
First problem: One of the sleeves between the aluminium hat on the rears was not supplied. We cut up a different sleeve off the old struts and tried to get them to work, but to no avail. Instead we mokced up a backyard mod after looking through nolathne bushes/washers etc trying to find a solution. I will be turning up a sleeve to size this week and notifying JOM of the shipping error.
Second problem: At the top of the strut at the front, the top of the piston (of the shock) protrudes through the body and is bolted down. It has an allen key head. Beneath this is a 21mm nut that needs to come off. This proved wonderfully difficult, without having VW special tool 3186 (i think), resulting in a cracked stud (of the old shock thank god). We dropped the shock out the bottom of the body, cut the top part off, and wuill grind flats on the piston, lock it in a vice and get the nut off that way. The rubber bush at the top is required to be reused.
Third problem: The new coils have allen key studs at the top also (fronts), but a different size to OEM. It is neither a 6/7/8 mm or 1/4" or 5/16"....I need to go to toolies in Sandgate tomorrow and find an allen key that suits. If not ill buy a cheap one, measure the required fit with verniers and grind one down to suit.
Fourth problem: Supplied C-spanner is pretty disgraceful.
Fifth problem: Instructions not supplied/ Warranty card in German.
Sounds like a big whinge, its been a long day, and will tackle the resot of this in the morning.
Second problem: At the top of the strut at the front, the top of the piston (of the shock) protrudes through the body and is bolted down. It has an allen key head. Beneath this is a 21mm nut that needs to come off. This proved wonderfully difficult, without having VW special tool 3186 (i think), resulting in a cracked stud (of the old shock thank god). We dropped the shock out the bottom of the body, cut the top part off, and wuill grind flats on the piston, lock it in a vice and get the nut off that way. The rubber bush at the top is required to be reused.
Find a 13/16" spark plug socket - they should fit over the 21mm nut and sit on it snugly. Spark plug sockets usually have a hex cut-out on the head of the socket so you can tighten it with a spammer while you hold onto the allen key.
Be gentle and make sure the allen key is held down - too much twisting and you can break that part.
Also, deep O-ring spanners do the job pretty well too, if you can find one in the 21mm size. My new mounts (HD ones from GAP) came with smaller-sized nuts so my smaller cheapo L-bent spanners from SuperCheap could be used. They come in handy that's for sure.
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