My new Mk2.

[jayjay]

it looks like it might have had wide track-age. it's running audi a3 mags which are 5x100. i remember when i was researching vr6 components on mk2s, that the only way to run 5 stud hubs and have the correct steering rack/control arm alignment was to use the whole subframe.

that could possibly be your steering problem if someone has just plonked vr6 hubs onto mk2 wishbones and struts....
unless it has 4x100 --> 5x100 adapters...?

regardless, get it shiny and low. hope it becomes as bamf as the old one

[Spyda]

Did a bit of work today.



I swaped the seats around and swaped the seat belts around aswell. I fixed a few little thing here and there aswell, it looks alot cleaner on the inside now.

I palyed around with the dizzy but the idle still sux.

Here are some pics of the the front and back brakes. Re-drilled hubs, rears looks stock, fronts look alot bigger.

[Golf Loon]

OK Spyda.

The dissy adjustment is just to cure the pinging. Set that first.

Then put the ISV that was on the car back on it.

Then when car is warm and tdissy timing is set, wind out the idle speed screw on the throttle body.

Thats it.

When car is cold it may hunt up and down for a minute or so, maybe even stall, but if tuned correctly should then settle.

If it is still playing up after that, its something else.

Interesting brake setup. Redrilled Mk2 gear, wonder what the front rotors are, they look like 280s, but why would they need to be redrilled? surely youd just use VR6 ones??

Good to see you hooking in and sorting the interior out.
Dont chuck the extra interior out, at the least keep the good passenger seat as that can be used to repair the drivers seat on another set and keep another one on the road

Are you gonna keep the audi wheels or go something different?

[Spyda]

OK Spyda.

The dissy adjustment is just to cure the pinging. Set that first.

Then put the ISV that was on the car back on it.

Then when car is warm and tdissy timing is set, wind out the idle speed screw on the throttle body.

Thats it.

When car is cold it may hunt up and down for a minute or so, maybe even stall, but if tuned correctly should then settle.

If it is still playing up after that, its something else.

Interesting brake setup. Redrilled Mk2 gear, wonder what the front rotors are, they look like 280s, but why would they need to be redrilled? surely youd just use VR6 ones??

Good to see you hooking in and sorting the interior out.
Dont chuck the extra interior out, at the least keep the good passenger seat as that can be used to repair the drivers seat on another set and keep another one on the road

Are you gonna keep the audi wheels or go something different?

Ive had the same problem on the red one ages ago. It was something to do with the ISV and the tempsensor, which i have replaced on the silver one.

Ive done what you said, that was the first thing i tryed, it doesnt help. When the car is warm the idel still goes up and down, it will also stall or almost stall when you rev it and let it go. My understanding is that the ISV is suposed to stop that for happening.

I can't tell when its pinging, i dont know what it sounds like I only notice the sound when you open it up on the road.

There are no plans to change the wheels.

It's a shame it has redrilled hubs and not vr6 brakes. Seems kind of poinless. If its all the same i think i will replace it with the 4x100 hubs so i can use my other wheels with good tires.

[Golf Loon]

I can't tell when its pinging, i dont know what it sounds like I only notice the sound when you open it up on the road.

It's a shame it has redrilled hubs and not vr6 brakes. Seems kind of poinless. If its all the same i think i will replace it with the 4x100 hubs so i can use my other wheels with good tires.

You need to drive around with a 13 mm spanner. when it is pinging, stop and adjust the dissy back a little then try again. repeat this until it goes good and pings the least.

The ISV is only for fine tuning. It was running ok before it left here and idling. Has it got petrol in it??

The front brakes are much bigger than the MK2 ones. Measure the ones on your 2 cars.

[mikinoz]

I like the look of this, and am partial to the Audi rims!

[Spyda]

You need to drive around with a 13 mm spanner. when it is pinging, stop and adjust the dissy back a little then try again. repeat this until it goes good and pings the least.

The ISV is only for fine tuning. It was running ok before it left here and idling. Has it got petrol in it??

The front brakes are much bigger than the MK2 ones. Measure the ones on your 2 cars.

Its got about 10L left in the tank.

I tried to sort out the idle again today after work, i followed what it said in the haynes manual (warm it up, plug breather hose, unplug temp sender, rev 3 times blah blah blah). It didn’t to anything.

I then tried to sort out the timing following the Haynes manual and a DIY post on clubgti.

Im a bit puzzled. I found TDC through spark plug hole #1, at TDC the cam pulley mark lines up with the other mark, all good right? I then adjusted the dizzy so that it matches up to the rotor, at TDC it lines up with spark plug #1.
I had a look inside the hole on the gear box and the notch, that i understood should be there, wasn’t there. I turned the engine by hand to see where the notch was and when i found it, the cam pulley was no longer aligned and neither was the dizzy.
From what i understand when the engine is at TDC the cam pulley and the notch in the gear box should be aligned with their respective points.

Please correct me.

Matt, when you said it might hunt up and down when its cold but then its fine, its the other way around. When its cold it idles fine but when it warms up the idel increases and hunts up and down, even when i hold it at 2k and 3k rpm it will still go up and down (not as much as on idel but you can still see it).

[Golf Loon]

I dont usually time them through the gearbox hole, I use the bottom end pulley and the cam pulley.

The dissy pulley is often wrong too, so I would do what you said, line up bottom end with mark on pulley, check by removing spark plug one. Cam mark should now be correct too.

At this point you could make your own mark through the gearbox hole if you like. Who knows what clutch is in there, could be anything.

Now set the dissy so the rotor button points at the nearest corner of the block.

The static timing is now set.

It should be pretty close. I`d roadtest it at this point and adjust the dissy a small bit either way to get rid of the pinging.

Now put the original ISV back on the engine. You had the same problem on your old car and now it has transferred over to this one. It must be the part you swopped over.

You can clean it whilst it is out. I use subaru engine conditioner.

Now the car is warm, disconnect the temp sensor and adjust the idle speed a tiny bit with the screw on the front of the Throttle body.

Car should now sit at 850 - 1100rpm and drive ok.

If it still hunts up and down when warm, you have another issue, vacuum line or temp sensor. What vacuum lines did you swop? why? are they correct? Try removing them at this stage and see if that helps.

If you were nearer, i`d do it for you. If you still cant do it, I reckon you need to sweet talk Pete Jones.

Let us know how you go.

Is it ready for rego yet?

[Spyda]

The reason i swaped the ISV and the vacume lines is because of the idel problem. It hasnt changed since I got the car. I wouldnt change it because i was bored, what would be the point of fixing something that isnt broken.

When i swaped the vacume lines i swaped them to how they where on the red car and how it is in the haynes manual, no change, postitive or negative.

I had the same problem on my car a long time ago, i cleaned the ISV and it was all sweet. So i thought if i change the ISV with one that i know works then it should be oright. WRONG!

The funny thing is it still hunts when im holding at any rpm and it idles fine when its cold. Could it be the washer around the idle adjust screw? How do i get that screw out, i tryed today but it wouldnt come out.

I will try reset the idle again, replace the ISV and temp sender again, check the idle switch, look over the vacume lines.


Ive got work and uni till next wednesday so i dont have time to take it to get a RWC check.

[Golf Loon]

Put the vacuum line back as they were on the silver car, not how they were on the red.

Swop the ISV back.

Then try the steps above. good luck.

[Spyda]

Put the vacuum line back as they were on the silver car, not how they were on the red.

Swop the ISV back.

Then try the steps above. good luck.

Ill give it a shot, i guess it couldn't hurt.

The set up on the silver one differed from the factory set up, it was just missing a T conection and one vacume line wasn't pluged in.

BTW, after i fixed the lag problem on the red one it ran perfectly...it was just slow

[Golf Loon]

Ill give it a shot, i guess it couldn't hurt.

The set up on the silver one differed from the factory set up, it was just missing a T conection and one vacume line wasn't pluged in.

Put it back as it was, the idle used to be ok when the car was warmed up.

[Spyda]

Put it back as it was, the idle used to be ok when the car was warmed up.

Nah man, the whole way home from the depot it was funny, several times i had to rev it up to keep it alive.

[Golf Loon]

But the symptoms are different now. Change it back.

[Spyda]

But the symptoms are different now. Change it back.

I will try what you said.

I just want to make it clear that non of the symptoms have changed since i got the car. There might have been a small improvement when i changed the vacume lines and ISV but these problems are still there as they where when i picked up the car:
-It rev hunts when its warm and at any rpm
-It will stall or almost stall when you rev it and let it go at any temp
-when cold it idles normal
-when warm the idle speed increases