My new Mk2.

[Spyda]

Small update.

It turns out the car has insurance so for a while i was trying to work stuff out with the insurance company. I expalined to them that i started pulling the car appart because i thought i didnt have insurance, they where sympathetic but still told me over the phone that i had to put the wheels back on so they could toe it to the assesment place.

Everyone agreeded that it didnt make scence to undo so much work just so they can toe it to one place, glance at it and then toe it back. So i went down to the insurance assesment center in airport west too see if i could speak to an assessor and organise it so that they could come to the car. They where understand and a few days later an assessor came out to have a look at the car and now the cheque is in the mail and the motor bike rider can contuine being an a'hole to the insurance company.

Now that its over i can continue repairs for road worthy.
I need new rotors as the rotors from the red one are right on the limit.
For reference min road worthy thickness is 18mm on the front and 10mm on the rear.

Whats a good place for rotors?

[WABIT]

imparts or south yarra auto parts all OEM stuff

dom

[benough]

Small update.

It turns out the car has insurance so for a while i was trying to work stuff out with the insurance company. I expalined to them that i started pulling the car appart because i thought i didnt have insurance, they where sympathetic but still told me over the phone that i had to put the wheels back on so they could toe it to the assesment place.

Whats a good place for rotors?

Due that's great news. But I must ask, how could you not know if it had insurance on it or not?

[Spyda]

Due that's great news. But I must ask, how could you not know if it had insurance on it or not?

They took direct debit from the business account and we didn't recive the papers in the mail. We only found out when we where chasing up invoices.

In the mean time i had a think and i have decided to drive our mk1 3door (the one from DoVW) as it needs less for road worthy and is cheaper to run. Most of the work inside and out has already been done on it and its just a matter of cleaing it up.
This will allow me to spend more time on the mk2, after i fix what is needed for roadworthy it will go to my mate for a respray in the original color and i will do the interior and sterio build. Once that is properly finished ill rego it and look at the motor....then start all over again with the mk1 haha.

Should be fun.

[benough]

They took direct debit from the business account and we didn't recive the papers in the mail. We only found out when we where chasing up invoices.

Sweet! I was devo when I saw that you had crashed it.

Can I ask you an O/T question? I can't PM or send you an email via these forums...

When you deleted the oil re-breather on your red GTI did you just hose clamp the filter to the rubber hose that sits in the rocker cover?

Also how did you blank off the re-breather pipe hole in the throttle body?

I am assuming the re-breather delete sorted out the joggins idle issue completely?

Cheers mate

[Spyda]

Sweet! I was devo when I saw that you had crashed it.

Can I ask you an O/T question? I can't PM or send you an email via these forums...

When you deleted the oil re-breather on your red GTI did you just hose clamp the filter to the rubber hose that sits in the rocker cover?

Also how did you blank off the re-breather pipe hole in the throttle body?

I am assuming the re-breather delete sorted out the joggins idle issue completely?

Cheers mate

Are you talkin about this thing?


I installed that a long time ago but i removed it because oil was coming out of it. I don't know if thats normal or not though.

All the stuff you need comes in the pack. The breather comes with a few different size fittings to fit the hole in the rocker cover and autobarn sells a cover to plug up the hole on the throttle body. I dont remember it changing the idle.

It was just for athstetics but didnt look so good when everything was covered in little bits of oil.

[benough]

Yeah that's the one.

Well I expect them to be needed to be cleaned but I know you can get a catch can with a oil breather on it.

As for the idle my car, when you come off the throttle coming to a stop the idle dips down to almost stall and then comes back up again. I was told the oil re-breather doesn't work the best and sends oil back into the throttle body and ISV, hence causing the idle to drop.

So did yours, or anyone here, ever behave like it? If so did this change fix this issue?

Cheers

[aus79]

My mark 2 GTI with 245 000 kms suffered the same.... dropped idle almost stalling etc...I took it to a guy in Brissy and after a couple of trips finally track the problem down to the “idle" screw. The car would idle great for a week then drop down/stall with a/c on etc. Somebody had used silicone instead of a small purpose made o-ring that stops the screw turning (slowly dropping the idle over a period of time) e...I am assuming you don't have any air leeks etc and I think my car is standard dig injection. Best of luck Steve

[benough]

Yeah right. When I re-did the head and then got it timed properly the idle thing pretty much disappeared but has slowly crept back.

I would prefer to keep the stock parts in there so I will get my mech to have a look for me.

Yeah I am pretty sure there aren't any air leaks in there. It's all runs very smoothly otherwise.

The info is much appreciated!

[Spyda]

bloody digifart idle.

The ISV is suposta stabilize the idle and keep it from dropping like that. The funny thing with digifarts is that even though cleaning a working ISV should fix the problem it doesn't always. A bad idle can came from the o2 sensor, the temp sender, the o-ring on the idle screw, the ISV, vacume lines etc etc.

I can never remember how i fixed my various idle issues but i usually play around with all of the above and reset the idle.

[Spyda]

I got my front hubs back from my mechanic after a bit of running around getting wheel bearings mixed up and having to wait for a new hub blah blah blah. I decided to fit them today and change the shocks while I was at it.

It took a good 5 extra min to pull of the wheel as it was jammed on tight....

I had the stock mk2 hub and disk next to me ready to go on so when i pulled off the wheel it was easy to see exactly how different the set up was on the silver mk2.

I spoke to the person who had the car before Matt and he said that they are vr6 brakes but they are not 280mm, they are around 250-260 but the calliper is visibly bigger and the carrier and hub assy is totally different. I tried to call Brian from GTI Imports who I’m told owned and did all the work to the car before giving it to his son but there is no answer.

Now I’m faced with a choice,
1. Keep the bigger brake set up and fork out more money for new disk and getting 4x100 hubs pressed in (if they can fit from the standard mk2)
2. Put the stock mk2 brakes on and change the callipers.

STOCK, from the front you can see that the calliper carrier is different.


WTF is it from?



The whole thing kind of pissed me off because I thought I had everything sorted and ready to go Its not so bad though, i bought new OEM rear disk rotors from IMPARTS yesterday for alot less then i expected and have bought a set of 'high torque' extractors from Peter in NSW so now I will have a full cat-less exhaust, sic bro!

*EDIT*
I just looked it up and 16v brakes are 256mm and look like this:


Can someone just let me know for sure though? And will the 8v hub and wheel bearing fit in the the 16v hub assy?

[Golf Loon]

The top picture is a Golf 2 hub with the built in carrier for the caliper. This is the same as those forund on 1.8 cordobas or Golf 3 1.8 CLs.

The Next Picture is a Mk3 GL 2L Hub with probably a VR6 hub pushed into the bearing and gawd knows what disk.

Good Luck with finding out from Brian, he cant use a spanner so would have got someone else to do it for him and his altzimers is coming on so he wont remember the details anyway.

Easiest fix is probably go back to 4 stud. What about that hub I sent to you? That was a 2L GL one I think, the caliper on the car should fit it, change to a 4x100 disk and you are in.

What stud patern are the rear rotors you bought??

[Spyda]

The top picture is a Golf 2 hub with the built in carrier for the caliper. This is the same as those forund on 1.8 cordobas or Golf 3 1.8 CLs.

The Next Picture is a Mk3 GL 2L Hub with probably a VR6 hub pushed into the bearing and gawd knows what disk.

Good Luck with finding out from Brian, he cant use a spanner so would have got someone else to do it for him and his altzimers is coming on so he wont remember the details anyway.

Easiest fix is probably go back to 4 stud. What about that hub I sent to you? That was a 2L GL one I think, the caliper on the car should fit it, change to a 4x100 disk and you are in.

What stud patern are the rear rotors you bought??

The top pic is the hub from the red mk2.

Its not a vr6 hub, its a 4x100 hub thats been re-drilled. I did a bit of reading and the ABA mk3 2L and 16v brakes and hub assy are the same. 10.1" or 256mm and the conversion requires the person to change the hub assy to mount the 16v caliper.

I used the hub you sent me, i got the hub pushed out of the mk3 hub assy and put the hub in to the red mk2 hub assy with the new wheel bearing.

I think i will keep the hub assy and bigger brakes on there but i will push out the re-drilled hub and put in the 4x100 mk2 hubs and buy new disks.

the rear disks are oem 4x100.

I need 4x100 all round to run the BBS wheels.

[Golf Loon]

Go 4x100 and buy standard 2L GL disks and all will be well.

[Spyda]

Made some progress today.
Changed the rear disks, pads and wheel bearings.
Put the rear coilovers in.
Preped both tale gates for the swap.
Bought trim paint.
Put the guage cluster back in with painted needles and shift light.

But there is always a step back.
The progressive shift light i built in to the guage cluster doesnt work properly, its a shame since i wired it up neatly and it took me a while to put together.
AND
a problem i need some help with, my speedo reads 20kph over, i noticed when i hit 100 in about 5sec and it reads 40 when im almost stoped. I think i stuffed it up when i was prying the needle off. What do i do?