Beaten down by a Nova.

[Tim]

i agree with the above. With all this talk of 8v and 16v. 12v sounds like a good compromise gooo the vr6!

[Jarred]

Sypda mate, this thread really has turned to sh*t, but hopefully you've got a few ideas.

IMO, and as a few others have said, mk 3 downpipe/exhaust manifold, a 268 deg cam, with adjust cam gear will set you back about $350(approx), and should really liven up the 1.8.

a 2.0 swap is a bit more complex and more expensive,. (engine out, swapsies etc etc.) Much more work.

Perphaps stick the the exhuast and cam, and save up for a 16V?

I'd only do a 2.0 bottom if you weren't planning on going for more power in the end. (basically not going 16V or forced induction)

[Peter Jones]

I'd only do a 2.0 bottom if you weren't planning on going for more power in the end. (basically not going 16V or forced induction)

I was reluctant to say this in order to avoid further confusing the issue.

But

Once you have a 2.0L bottom end in the car you could put a 16v head on it later on when funds permit. It's something I've considered myself. There's a few examples of this been done in the UK and US forums, usually to Make the next generation MK3 (2.0 slow) faster. (There's some other technical problems with this swap and the parts count is high, but it is possible.)

Pete

[WABIT]

just buy a mk1

[DubSteve]

i agree with the above. With all this talk of 8v and 16v. 12v sounds like a good compromise gooo the vr6!

Was just going to say that Tim

LOL I have never seen the mk2 forum so lively, its like people have been sitting in the closet for some time

Sounds like the Teacher in mrgolf has come out

[jayjay]

Do you think that would be a good idea without the mk3 manifold and downpipe?

I thought it would have been better to do the mk3 mani and downpipe first as that is the main restrictor (i have been told) then put a cam in to make use of that extra exhaust flow as air flow in to the engine has already been improved a little, then increase displacement to get a bit of extra torque.

that's exactly what i meant. i'm not sure how i came across but yeah, go cams and mk3 manifold before anything else and see how you like it cause there'll definitely be noticable gains. alternatively you could save up for a 16v bottom end and make 120 octane race gas bruiser...

hehehe. i'm loving any excuse for chatter about mk2s.

[Golf Loon]

They moved away from K-Jet because digi was more efficient. And digi helped with emissions more. And in the euro spec digi motors, you are probably correct in that the in gear acceleration is pretty good and at least on par with K-Jet. Where you are horribly, horribly wrong is where you reckon the Australian digi engined cars are better than the euro engined cars in gear. No. Just no. 112bhp vs 90-95bhp with less weight by around 100kgs will always mean the euro engined cars will be faster. Dont even get me started on torque differences... Having driven both on numerous occasions I can testify that the euro motors are faster everywhere. The reason for the power differences lie in the head and larger valves as well as extra emissions controls, not just the injection.

As stated before, your experience may have been influenced by poor setup or, more likely, an overdrive gearbox whose 5th gear was a lot taller than the genuine GTI boxes. This would result in slower in gear acceleration. If you had driven a euro specced MkII GTI with an EV, you would be more qualified to make such a statement. As you arent, you would have to admit that your experience isnt extensive enough to make a categoric statement as you have.

You are right in what you say Steve.

However, you two need to chill out and play nice.
Agree to disagree if you like.

[Golf Loon]

Do you think that would be a good idea without the mk3 manifold and downpipe?

I thought it would have been better to do the mk3 mani and downpipe first as that is the main restrictor (i have been told) then put a cam in to make use of that extra exhaust flow as air flow in to the engine has already been improved a little, then increase displacement to get a bit of extra torque.

Just put a Mk3 manifold and downpipe on your 1.8 motor and it will brethe sooo much better. Put a cam in and you win.
This is all easy bolt on stuff and not expensive.

If you change to a 2L it will take longer and cost more, do the mods to the 1.8 and see the difference.

They wont be wasted, cos even if you goto a 2L bottom end, you can still use the 1.8head and exhaust setup.

[mrgolf]

Sounds like the Teacher in mrgolf has come out

Is it that obvious? Haha... Oops...

However, you two need to chill out and play nice.

Yeah, most of it was tongue in cheek, but I did play hard to want a bit. I didnt post angry...

[DubSteve]

Is it that obvious? Haha... Oops...

Just a little bit Steve lol

[evorobin]

Stumbled across a dyno readout for my old PB 8v

http://evoposters.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=33288&g2_serialNumber=2

[Jarred]

atw or fly robin?

[gldgti]

sorry, i had to add this :-P

meh. Everyone hates the stock motor in the Golf they drive.(Well most of the people on here anyway)

Mk 1 Most people upgrade the 1600
MK 2 See saga above
MK 3 - The 2.0 Slow
MK 4 Chips , and bolt ons
MK 5 Chips and bolt ons.
VR6s into Ibizas, 16v s into 1s, 2s and 3s it's all part of the fun.


Pete

old diesel - more boost, more fuel... still slow

[evorobin]

atw or fly robin?

That's at the tyres dude euro 8v right there!

Steve cheated and took power at the hubs...

[mrgolf]

Mine is amongst these pics. Balanced bottom end, oversize pistons, head work, cam and adjustable gear. K-Jet.

http://stevesgti.spaces.live.com/photos/cns!1C42B21E609BE3C2!128/