Beaten down by a Nova.

[Spyda]

Gotta agree with that. An 8v mk2 should never have been a gti, unless you include the G60 gti.

And this is not a debate about 16v VS 8v (the fact of the matter is it's been proven several times the 16v is higher power and torque EVERYWHERE in the rev range)

That said I know a lot of mk2 8v gti's have the same problem, both of my mates "aussie" gti's had the spluttering restricted problem. I think it was a simple temp sensor problem in the end....

Temp sendor is brand new. I think it could be O2 sensor but ill see what happens with that.

tutt tutt street racing....

however the 8v should be able to make a healthy 130-140hp with "bolt ons" mentioned above. The 8v is a great engine that many people have made good power from reliably, therefore there are many aftermarket solutions for your problem.


also for the record, please do not post up threads which include street racing incidents as VWWA does not, nor will ever advocate or encourage street racing of any kind.

so please edit your first post

I didnt say anything about being on a street. IT WASNT ON A STREET. IT WAS ON A PRIVATE TRACK.

a drag between an aussie gti and a nova cant really be considered street racing. They were probably overtaken by the rest of the traffic pulling away from the lights anyways

Haha, half the time we where trying to keep up with my other mates VN SS.

get him on some bendies then see who comes out tops.....

OK maybe there are other options as well , but your never going to get enough power out of a 1.8 8v without throwing big dollars at it.

Just dont throw it away and get a skyline....

The GTI stomps on everything around bendies, my commo driving mate couldnt belive how fast it can go around bends, he shizd his panties.
A skyine is prity tempting though, a r32 gtr with some light tunning will munch just about every VW on this forum and at less then half the price of a new GTI.

I dunno about 140 with bolt ons. I have done a bit of reading and found 150 can be made by head work, a 2L bottom end, cams and exhaust. I would be happy with that. Actualy i would be happy with a euro spec 8v that can rev smoothly.
I dont think it can be done for less then $2000, exhaust is about $1500, $800 for head work, $600 for the 2L and other parts. Then there is all the little bits and bobs.
With 140hp, would i have to upgrade the brakes, clutch etc etc?

Dont get me wrong, i love the mk2, unique and all that and handling is fantastic but it so slow.

[jayjay]

eurospec head would be good. you dont even need extracters. i'm not sure which model they're off. possibly a mk3 or seat.. bolt straight on. 4-2-1.

on another note, i had a ride in a beeza cupra with kr cams in it. i wasn't impressed at all... in fact, from what i could tell, my mk2 8v would go as hard/if not harder..

[Mischa]

a drag between an aussie gti and a nova cant really be considered street racing. They were probably overtaken by the rest of the traffic pulling away from the lights anyways

i lol'd filler

[jayjay]

you wont need to upgrade anything... maybe if you have rear drums. clutch no point unless you love burnouts.. is it slammed on coilovers yet? who cares how fast a nova is...

it's a nova.

[Oneofthegreats]

eurospec head would be good. you dont even need extracters. i'm not sure which model they're off. possibly a mk3 or seat.. bolt straight on. 4-2-1.

on another note, i had a ride in a beeza cupra with kr cams in it. i wasn't impressed at all... in fact, from what i could tell, my mk2 8v would go as hard/if not harder..

You still have compression issue's even if you do fit a euro head. Then if you add a big cam, your heading even further backward's due to the cam overlap & bleed off.

You would also want to fit extractor's along with a free flowing (at least 2.25") exhaust system to open up the power band.

Without sounding too cynical, I doubt an aussie spec 8V would feel anywhere near as quick/fast a 16V, especially a ABF with KR cam's.
That's like saying the my stock 80?hp GX feel's just as good as my modded 135hp GX.

If your chasing more power. My advice is an engine swap.
If you still want an 8V, source a complete euro GTI 8V engine with the higher compression ratio 10+:1, as these are a better base to work with.
Also have the better cyl. heads too.
Or try what Pete's doing & fit your top end & accessorie's to a golf 3 2L bottom end.

I ran brand new genuine stock mk1 GTI front brakes & mk2 GTI rear disc's, mk2 16V booster & master cyl., 16V proportioning valves & braided brake lines on my Mk1 & that was more than enough on a race track. Even after 10+ very hard lap's at Symmond's Plain's, I didn't have any braking problem's & could still pull up doing 165+km/h in under 80m.

I'd suggest if your going for power upgrades, is just check & make sure everything is in tip top condition & working order.
Clutch is probably a given & I'd upgrade that accordingly.

[evorobin]

Gotta agree with that. An 8v mk2 should never have been a gti, unless you include the G60 gti.

There's nothing wrong with the euro 8v...

http://www.pistonheads.com/reviews/reviews.asp?c=55&id=631

Spyda buy a 16v off matt if you want power, 8v is the better engine / gearbox combo imo

[Jarred]

is it possible that your MAF isn't functioning properly, thus causing a few headaches.

I've heard a few stories where people have gone to heaps of trouble, and in the end new MAF or checking/tightening the MAF, had solved all the problems.

As for making more power, I'd take Golfworx's advice - He knows what he's on about!

[Spyda]

you wont need to upgrade anything... maybe if you have rear drums. clutch no point unless you love burnouts.. is it slammed on coilovers yet? who cares how fast a nova is...

it's a nova.

Its lowered about 40mm, front spoiler is about 95mm from the ground and the exhaust is a bit lower. I have broken the spoiler 4 times already and bumper has been pushed off its clips about once a day. Its low enough to give a normal person problems but its not low enough do give a dubber and erection.

You still have compression issue's even if you do fit a euro head. Then if you add a big cam, your heading even further backward's due to the cam overlap & bleed off.

You would also want to fit extractor's along with a free flowing (at least 2.25") exhaust system to open up the power band.

Without sounding too cynical, I doubt an aussie spec 8V would feel anywhere near as quick/fast a 16V, especially a ABF with KR cam's.
That's like saying the my stock 80?hp GX feel's just as good as my modded 135hp GX.

If your chasing more power. My advice is an engine swap.
If you still want an 8V, source a complete euro GTI 8V engine with the higher compression ratio 10+:1, as these are a better base to work with.
Also have the better cyl. heads too.
Or try what Pete's doing & fit your top end & accessorie's to a golf 3 2L bottom end.

I ran brand new genuine stock mk1 GTI front brakes & mk2 GTI rear disc's, mk2 16V booster & master cyl., 16V proportioning valves & braided brake lines on my Mk1 & that was more than enough on a race track. Even after 10+ very hard lap's at Symmond's Plain's, I didn't have any braking problem's & could still pull up doing 165+km/h in under 80m.

I'd suggest if your going for power upgrades, is just check & make sure everything is in tip top condition & working order.
Clutch is probably a given & I'd upgrade that accordingly.

I wana get it working properly first off then if its stable ill look in to an exahust. As far as engine convertions go, im still learning but it wont be anything short of a VR. Ill need a car and lots of money. I understand with more power you need the suspention and brakes sorted so thats no where near the pipe works yet.

You say a euro spec 8v has lower compresion. Why cant i just lower the compression in a aussie 8v? I thought the only difference was the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Are there any other differences?

[Mischa]

Its lowered about 40mm, front spoiler is about 95mm from the ground and the exhaust is a bit lower. I have broken the spoiler 4 times already and bumper has been pushed off its clips about once a day. Its low enough to give a normal person problems but its not low enough do give a dubber and erection.



I wana get it working properly first off then if its stable ill look in to an exahust. As far as engine convertions go, im still learning but it wont be anything short of a VR. Ill need a car and lots of money. I understand with more power you need the suspention and brakes sorted so thats no where near the pipe works yet.

You say a euro spec 8v has lower compresion. Why cant i just lower the compression in a aussie 8v? I thought the only difference was the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Are there any other differences?

euro 8v has higher compression. the more you compress the air/fuel the more power you get out of it. until you reach a limit where it starts spontaneously combusting.

[Golf Loon]

This thread is funny. A few facts for you.

The Aussie GTI is a Jap spec 90Hp unit, they are wet and weak.

The UK spec cars had 110HP. The difference is in headwork, cam and exhaust.

If you put a G Grind cam or something bigger, a Mk3 GL exhaust and manifold and a pommie ecu, you will have a faster car.

ECU chip on its own wont do much, may even make you slower as it just chucks in more fuel. This wont help unless the motor is brething better.

I`d drill the airbox lots as well.

You also have to remember these were good all round fast cars 20 years ago. Nowadays most modern cars are faster. A well setup Mk2 through some twisties is still a ball to drive though. There are just not that many good ones in Australia.

[Spyda]

This thread is funny. A few facts for you.

The Aussie GTI is a Jap spec 90Hp unit, they are wet and weak.

The UK spec cars had 110HP. The difference is in headwork, cam and exhaust.

If you put a G Grind cam or something bigger, a Mk3 GL exhaust and manifold and a pommie ecu, you will have a faster car.

ECU chip on its own wont do much, may even make you slower as it just chucks in more fuel. This wont help unless the motor is brething better.

I`d drill the airbox lots as well.

Its geting a bit confusing now. If the UK Spec had different headwork, cam and exhaust why do i need a different ecu. Shouldnt it be the same, digiII?

Like i said before, a 2L bottom end, head work in the way off cams and bigger intake and exhaust valves or whatever the usal is, and 4-2-1 manifold (plus all the little tweaks etc.). While doing that, increase compression ratio, fuel pressure and get bigger injectors. That should be a decent amount of go, without having to change the brakes and further dinting the hip pocket.

The motor at the moment has a BMW MAF, K&N, drilled air box on the fender and front side with baffle removed, a cold air feed, and chip.
All that does nothing but make you sound like your from FnF, makes the car louder and gets rid of digilag. The car also stays cool, usaly staying on the fat white line on the tep guage, i dunno if thats normal.

I read that people with above mentioned work to their 8v have made ~150hp and had mid to high 7s 0-100 times.

[jayjay]

150hp from a counterflow 8v is a tall order without porting is a pretty big ask.

you wont need a different ecu at all. golfloon never said anything about needing a new ecu.

you also wont be able to increase compression ratio very easily... first things first. mk3 gl (thanks matt) exhaust manifold and a g-grind/neuspeed/lumpy-ass cam will make quite a reasonable difference. then if you're not -ing enough, worry about the others.


edit:

I read that people with above mentioned work to their 8v have made ~150hp and had mid to high 7s 0-100 times.

note - most of these guys are using the gl 2L bottom end, have bigger cams and are running them in 200kg lighter mk1s.

[jayjay]

Without sounding too cynical, I doubt an aussie spec 8V would feel anywhere near as quick/fast a 16V, especially a ABF with KR cam's.
That's like saying the my stock 80?hp GX feel's just as good as my modded 135hp GX.

hehe, dont worry you're not.

i have a eurospec big valve from south africa running k-jet. . apparently it has a bit of headwork and bigger cam too.
it goes pretty hard not like 16v in a mk1 hard, but like, 90's commodore hard.

[Spyda]

150hp from a counterflow 8v is a tall order without porting is a pretty big ask.

you wont need a different ecu at all. golfloon never said anything about needing a new ecu.

you also wont be able to increase compression ratio very easily... first things first. mk3 gl (thanks matt) exhaust manifold and a g-grind/neuspeed/lumpy-ass cam will make quite a reasonable difference. then if you're not -ing enough, worry about the others.


edit:

note - most of these guys are using the gl 2L bottom end, have bigger cams and are running them in 200kg lighter mk1s.

I have read that cross flow is no good unless you are going with turbo or SC.
I said it was a 2l bottom end, with head work (porting), cams and exahust that was making said figures.
Loon did say i needed a pommie ecu :S
Thouse guys are running said times and figures in mk2's as far as i read.

I figure it a worth while conversion. If you spend $4k and manage 140hp and another $1k uprating the brakes and roll bars ,or whatever to strenghten the chassi a little bit, you will have a mk2 worhty of carying the gti badge. It should be able to hastle some v8's in a straight line and will still be sweet around bendies.
For under $10k including the mk2 itself, you will have a proper 1 of 200 hot hatch.
Other conversions will cost a fair bit more, 2l 16v with cams = 180hp, vr6 = 170hp without exhaust etc. With that kind of power your brakes, chassi and suspention will need a fair bit more work to cope. VR conversion itself costing upwards of 5K. Itll have to be for another day.


Thats just my asumption. Im a right or wrong?

[evorobin]

Loon did say i needed a pommie ecu.

He meant the chip which you can buy off ebay cheaply I'm sure