The Danish mk1

[Mk1@4Motion]

If you run carbs they are easier to repair quickly if you are standing along the road because they are giving trouble. But not sure how cluey you are when it comes to carbs?


Only The Good Die Young 45

[mads_christ]

As long as they are not overly complicated I should be able to set them up myself. My biggest concern is spark/distributor. I could keep the original from the 16v and use the spark control unit from the CIS system... Have anyone here any experience with that?

@ sports racer: what is your spark setup?

[Mk1@4Motion]

The Danish mk1

His has a distributor and a ignition coil. I assume his spark system on that 16V is as in the image below(if it might help you) But I would change the distributor to electronic rather than points. But thats just me.


As for the carbs, they are pretty easy to understand, the part that takes the longest is the jetting of the carbs and getting the butterfly set up with the choke. Are you going to run electronic choke or cable choke?


Only The Good Die Young 45

[sports racer]

sports racer: what is your spark setup?

I'm running the standard ECU to control the distributor.

[mads_christ]

Great! Was your car originally a carbed car?

[Mk1@4Motion]

Great! Was your car originally a carbed car?

No, but my dad is a mechanic and I worked with him during school holidays and he taught me a little bit of everything.


Only The Good Die Young 45

[Browneye]

Electronic distributors are piss easy to set up mate. Getting the parts is probably the hardest part (especially for a 16v). But I imagine all 16v distributors have a hall effect sensor rather than points anyway. Just need to get a ICM (ignition control module) and wire it as per the diagram below
All that being said, I have yet to test my electronic ignition because I haven't cranked the engine over yet. Pretty sure it'll work just fine as my wiring is identical to the above diagram

[mads_christ]

There should be an ignition module in my 16v wiring loom. So I think I got the parts covered. I think....

[mads_christ]

A tiny tiny tiny bit of progress has been made! Slow and steady and all that...

I've bolted the 16v and the auto gearbox together. And it seems to fully functional!!



But! The waterpump pulley doesn't seem to line up... And can't figure out why.
Furthermore it seems to be impossible to find gaskets for this engine locally. Which is a pain in the ass!

This lack of progress is starting to become a bit frustrating. Even more so because my mate (who's garage I'm using) has managed to customize 4, yes 4!!!, bikes in the same timespan that I have used to remove the old engine. And I'm still not there yet.


One of his cool creations....

[Peter Jones]

Pump pulleys vary a lot between models.

You should be able to swap everything over from the original MK1 motor but you might need to swap the water pump over too.

Another option is to convert to a serpentine belt setup there's some details in this thread. http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...ead-19887.html

[mads_christ]

The current pulley is from the mk1 1,6. But I'll try to swap the water pump as well. Even though it looks identical. Thanks for the tip!

[Peter Jones]

From memory the offset is the same but you can only fit the MK1 pulley to a MK1 pump because the hub in the centre changed sizes.

I think you might have the MK1 crank pulley but the wrong pump pulley.

You might have to change the pump to get a mk1 water pump pulley to fit.

I hope that's clear, pulleys always confuse me!

[mads_christ]

The weird thing is that mk1 pulley fits the mk2 pump perfectly. Bolt pattern and hub size. It's just the offset that seems of by 5-8 mm.

[mads_christ]

I have now tried all my options regarding the pulleys. No luck! So for now, I'll ignore the problem and start gathering parts for a serpentine conversion.

Next issue is the exhaust! The stock manifold and down pipe (16v) doesn't fit. It Interferes with the steering thingy (what is it called? I really can't remember what is called in English)

I always wanted to use a race header of some kind, but didn't want to spend money before I was sure that the engine could run properly. Now it seems I have to. Which race headers do you guys prefer? Any certain brand? 4-2-1 or 4-1?

[Notso Swift]

Generally for all motors a 4-2-1 will give a wider power band than 4-1, but I have found a smaller bore 4-1 works better than a oversized 4-2-1 where the gas speed drops