My new MK1

[abreut]

Looks good! Definitely got to the pillar rust early enough, it doesn't look like it went too far.

[Matti89]

New carpet and seats went in a few weeks ago.


Also got it registered
Initially it failed on no emissions gear, drivers parker not working and blinkers not cancelling but got that all fixed up

Going to be getting a new exhaust soon as the one i have on it now is too loud and rattles sometimes.

[Mk1@4Motion]

Interior looks good. [emoji41][emoji41][emoji41]


Only The Good Die Young 45

[Matti89]

I seem to have a problem with my indicators. With the ignition on there's a buzzing noise coming from the relay but it turns to clicking when indicating and the signals work fine. When the car is started the buzzing noise is gone but when indicating the lights dont flash, they just stays on. Is this a simple relay problem?

[sports racer]

Replace the relay or take it apart and clean the contacts.

Much easier to replace it and they don't cost much.

Cheers

Paul

[Dubstein]

Is this buzzing coming from the fusebox? I had this when working on my wiring, getting the headlights to work to a new separate switch (I using a different dash). The headlights are connected to the indicators so there might be a grounding issue or something unplugged, just a shot in the dark. I cant really explain how the wires are set up.. Sorry if it doesn't help but it might

Ill attach my fusebox diagram, but you will probably have the newer model one, which is floating around the internet anyway. Im pretty sure the switch set up is the same anyway.





Im not sure how to go about making this smaller, anyone know how to code a scroll box or spoiler on these forums?

A
CORRECT - 1 - Blue/White – Alternator NEW
CORRECT - 2 - blu/brn - spare wire, linked to D4 internally
NOTHING - 3 - blu/grn - Jumpered to pin A5
CORRECT - 4 - blu - Alternator pin D+
CORRECT - 5 - blu/grn - Jumpered to pin A3 ONLY GREEN
CORRECT - 6 - blk/wht - Front left indicator
CORRECT - 7 - brn - Horn(s)
NOTHING - 8 - blk/grn - Jumped connector to: warm up valve, Aux air valve & fuel pump
CORRECT - 9 - gry/blk - Left sidelight
CORRECT - 11 - blk/yel - Horn(s)
CORRECT - 14 - red/yel - Brake light switch
CORRECT - 15 - blk - Reverse light switch
CORRECT - 16 - red/blk - Brake light switch
CORRECT - 17 - blk/grn - Reverse light switch BLACK/GRAY
CORRECT - 18 - wht/blk - Left headlight pin 56a
CORRECT - 19 - yel/blk - Left headlight pin 56b

C
CORRECT - 1 - blu/yel - Coolant temp switch - too cold
CORRECT - 5 - brn - Windscreen wiper motor pin 31
CORRECT - 6 - grn/blk - Windscreen wiper motor pin 53 ONLY GREEN – 9?
CORRECT - 7 - gry/red - Right sidelight
CORRECT - 8 - yel - Right headlight pin 56b
CORRECT - 9 - grn - Windscreen wiper motor pin 53e GREEN/BLACK – 6?
CORRECT – 10 – red/blk – Starter motor NEW
CORRECT - 11 - wht - Right headlight pin 56a
CORRECT - 12 - blu/blk - Oil pressure switch
CORRECT - 13 - blk/gry - Windscreen wiper motor pin 53a
CORRECT - 15 - wht/lil - Series resistance for coil BLACK/BLUE
CORRECT - 16 - grn/yel - Windscreen wiper motor pin 53b
CORRECT - 17 - grn/red - Windscreen washer motor
CORRECT - 18 - blk/grn - Front right indicator
NOTHING - 19 - blk? - Ignition Coil pin 1

D
CORRECT - 1 - blu/red - Dash clocks plug T14/2 (Indicator warning light)
CORRECT - 2 - blu - Dash clocks plug T14/10 (Battery warning light)
CORRECT - 3 - Red - Headlight switch pin 30
CORRECT - 5 - blk - Horn relay pin 86 BLACK/BROWN
NOT SURE - 7 - blk/wht - Headlight switch pin X WHITE/GREEN - ?
CORRECT - 8 - blu/yel - Dash clocks plug T14/1 (Coolant temp guage - too cold)
NOTHING - 9 - red/yel - Headlight flasher switch pin 30
CORRECT - 10 - wht - flasher switch pin 56a BUT IS #10 – BROWN - EARTH
NOTHING - 11 - brn – Earth SWAPED
CORRECT - 12 - wht - hazard switch pin 49
CORRECT - 14 - red/gry - Dash clock, Cigarette lighter ONLY RED
NOTHING - 15 - Red - Dash clocks plug T14/4 (Rev counter)
NOTHING - 16 - wht/grn - Rear screen heater switch pin 86
CORRECT - 17 - wht/blk - Headlight switch pin 56
CORRECT - 18 - blu/blk - Dash clocks plug T14/11 (Oil pressure warning lamp)
CORRECT - 19 - blk/red - Blower motor switch pin + BLACK/WHITE
CORRECT - 20 - blk/blu - Hazard switch pin 15
CORRECT - 21 - red/wht - Hazard switch pin 30
CORRECT - 22 - blu/wht - Dash clocks plug T14/3 (Main beam warning light)
E
CORRECT - 1 - gry/blk - Headlight switch pin 58L
CORRECT - 2 - blk - ignition switch pin 15
CORRECT - 3 - blk/wht/grn - Hazard switch pin 49a
CORRECT - 5 - gry/red - Headlight switch pin 58R
CORRECT - 7 - grn/red - Jumpered to pin E20 SWAPED WITH #8
CORRECT - 8 - brn/blk - Wiper stalk pin J SWAPED WITH #7
CORRECT - 9 - gry/grn - Headlight switch pin 58
NOT SURE - 10 - yel - Flasher switch pin 56b YELLOW/BLACK AND GOES TO IGNITON PIN X
CORRECT - 11 - brn - Horn relay pin 87 BROWN/BLUE
CORRECT - 12 - lil/blk - Dash clocks plug T14/8 (Fuel gauge)
NOTHING - 13 - blk/yel - Heated rear screen switch pin +
CORRECT - 15 - ? - Wiper stalk pin 53a
CORRECT - 16 - grn/blk - Wiper stalk pin 53e
CORRECT – 17 – black/red - main ignition switch - NEW
CORRECT - 18 - grn - Wiper stalk pin 53
CORRECT - 19 - blk/wht - Hazard switch pin L
CORRECT - 20 - grn/red - Jumpered to pin E7, Wiper stalk pin T
CORRECT - 21 - grn/yel - Wiper stalk pin 53b
CORRECT - 22 - blk/grn - Hazard switch pin R

F
CORRECT - 9 - gry/blk - Left rear light
CORRECT - 10 - wht - heated rear screen
CORRECT - 12 - lil/blk - Fuel guage sender
CORRECT - 13 - gry/grn - Number plate lights
CORRECT - 14 - red/grn - Interior light ONLY RED
CORRECT - 15 - gry/red - Right rear light
CORRECT - 16 - blk/grn - Rear right indicator
CORRECT - 18 - blk - Reverse lights
CORRECT - 19 - blk/wht - Rear left indicator
CORRECT - 20 - blk/red - Brake lights

G
CORRECT - 1 - red - jumpered to pin H7
CORRECT – 5 – wht/yel - ? Leads to nothing, spade connection near firewall NEW
CORRECT - 6 - red/blk - Radiator fan thermo switch
NOTHING - 7 - blk/gry - Rear wiper relay pin 53a, rear wiper motor pin 53a

H
NOT SURE - 3 – red – Weird box thing NEW
CORRECT – 4 – red - ignition switch pin 30, jumpered to pin G1 NEW
CORRECT – 5 – red – 2x wires goes to alternator NEW
CORRECT – 6– red - Battery +ve, NEW
CORRECT – 7– red – Jumped to G1 NEW

Someone might find this handy anyway.

[roccodingo]

Just a word of warning.

76 and earlier cars used the fuse board / relay plate 'A' version
Later cars used the 'B & C' version. Some of the pin out positions are different.

Easiest way to tell if yours is an 'A' version is that it will have a large square headlamp relay on the left hand end, you will
likely have the metal indicator switch.

proceed with knowledge...

[Dubstein]

As rocco said Mine is a 76 and doesnt use the b slot.

Sent from my HTC_PN071

[Matti89]

Mine doesn't use the b slot aswell. I think it was a grounding issue because I recently took the cluster out to check the voltage stabiliser and when I put it back together it works fine

[roccodingo]

By the A , B or C version you need to look at the part number that begins with 171.... the letter at the end is the version.

[Matti89]

Had a new 2 inch exhaust made and installed, sounds much better now and now longer rattles

I dont think its running 100% though. Im getting this weird whistling noise when accelerating. Heres 2 videos of the engine running, not sure if you can hear it though.

I was also wondering if anyone know any weber tuners in sydney that can get the carb running perfectly.





MK1 Golf - YouTube

MK1 Golf driving - YouTube

[MarcusAurelius]

Tough exhaust! How much did that set you back?

[gldgti]

Have you changed the fuel supply setup at all?

In your first page, the engine bay pics look like there is no fuel return hooked up. It also looks like you must have an electric fuel pump, as I couldnt see any fuel lines going to a diaphragm pump on the block?

With no return, its very hard for the system to regulate fuel pressure properly. The fuel pump and regulator needs to be able to circulate the fuel and the carbie should be tapping off of this circulating supply. All this means is that the fuel should go from the pump to a tee, with one side going to the carb and the other side going to the return to the tank.

If you get this sorted and check the fuel pressure, it might help it to run right - if the carb is getting too much more or less fuel pressure than about 4psi, it wont work properly.

[Matti89]

Have you changed the fuel supply setup at all?

In your first page, the engine bay pics look like there is no fuel return hooked up. It also looks like you must have an electric fuel pump, as I couldnt see any fuel lines going to a diaphragm pump on the block?

With no return, its very hard for the system to regulate fuel pressure properly. The fuel pump and regulator needs to be able to circulate the fuel and the carbie should be tapping off of this circulating supply. All this means is that the fuel should go from the pump to a tee, with one side going to the carb and the other side going to the return to the tank.

If you get this sorted and check the fuel pressure, it might help it to run right - if the carb is getting too much more or less fuel pressure than about 4psi, it wont work properly.

The exhaust cost just over $400, thats mates rates though.

When i first bought the car it had a electronic fuel pump without the return. It was giving me some issues so i just went back to the mechanical pump at the front of the engine. Ive read some people saying that a return line is not needed with webers when running the mechanical pump.

[abreut]

You definitely do want to return to the tank with the mechanical fuel pump. I used a restrictor in the return line just at the t-piece leading back to the tank. Also one thing you might want to look at is the internal strainer inside the fuel tank. It is probably all gummed up after all the years of sitting and could be causing fuel starvation. You have to pull the back seat out, undo the little manhole cover, take out the fuel level sender and then get a little hook made out of a coat-hanger or something and pull out the strainer. The gauze is very fine so it blocks up easily.