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My new MK1

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  • My new MK1

    After searching for a while for a 2 door mk1 i eventually gave up and found a 4 door which looked decent being sold by a member here. It was last registered about 7 years ago so a few things need doing before re registering it. My current plans are re registering it and using it as a daily.

    Its currently running a 1.8 with a 45 weber, 020 5 speed gearbox and upgraded gti brakes.
    Rust wise its not too bad. Major areas are under the rear bumper, on top of the rain panel under the bonnet and on the windshield pillar.
    Ive just done the basic things needed to get it running right, oil, plugs, coolant, brake fluid etc. Im just waiting on some parts from overseas like the cambelt and a few other things.
    The interior is pritty good, its got a later model dash which has no cracks and the carpet has no major stains or tears. I might look at putting later model from seats in the future.






  • #2
    Looks good!

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    • #3
      Mate I was so keen on this thing! Good luck and treat her well bud

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      • #4
        Originally posted by MarcusAurelius View Post
        Mate I was so keen on this thing! Good luck and treat her well bud
        Thanks mate, it's pretty well sorted just some electrical issues. I installed a new temp sender but I still get no movement at the gauge, when I ground the wire the temp rises so I don't think it's the wiring.

        Also the instrument lights aren't working so I have to have a look at that aswell.

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        • #5
          I just have a quick question, if I'm going to use a 52mm vdo gauge for the water temp can I use the same sender I have on my car currently?

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          • #6
            Depends on the gauge. Rig it up and if it is wrong, you know you need a new sender
            sigpic

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dubstar View Post
              Depends on the gauge. Rig it up and if it is wrong, you know you need a new sender
              Yea I have ordered the gauges, I will see how I go.

              I replaced the rear flexible hoses, New discs and pads and bled all the brakes but I still have a soft pedal. When the car is off the pedal feels solid but as soon as the car is started the pedal doesn't feel right.
              I checked the vacuum tube according to my manual and when the pedal is pressed and the car is started the pedal does go down which according to my manual means that the servo is fine? I don't know if that's how mk1 brakes are meant to feel as I've never driven another one but the brakes work good when driving. I have the updated vented discs and calipers

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              • #8
                Hey Matt, I'm glad to see old kermit golf getting some attention.

                With the temp gauge in the dash, I'm taking it it doesn't work? You might want to check the wire condition in the engine bay. I did notice the wire had come off the sender, and I plugged it back on but the connection might not be good.

                With the brakes, here's what I think might be happening. I think I put Seat Cordoba rear drums on that car (I have had so many mk1s I have lost track!). They are a self-adjusting type. The problem is the self-adjusting part tends to fail, and they go way out of adjustment. That's why you have a lot of pedal travel, most of your pedal press goes to taking up the slack in the now un-adjusted rear drums. On another mk1 I had I ended up getting rid of these supposed upgraded rear drums, and just went back to the good old standard manual adjustment mk1 type. You can get a very nice pedal with the standards. Or, look up how to manually adjust Seat Cordoba drums. There is a bit of a trick to it.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by abreut View Post
                  Hey Matt, I'm glad to see old kermit golf getting some attention.

                  With the temp gauge in the dash, I'm taking it it doesn't work? You might want to check the wire condition in the engine bay. I did notice the wire had come off the sender, and I plugged it back on but the connection might not be good.

                  With the brakes, here's what I think might be happening. I think I put Seat Cordoba rear drums on that car (I have had so many mk1s I have lost track!). They are a self-adjusting type. The problem is the self-adjusting part tends to fail, and they go way out of adjustment. That's why you have a lot of pedal travel, most of your pedal press goes to taking up the slack in the now un-adjusted rear drums. On another mk1 I had I ended up getting rid of these supposed upgraded rear drums, and just went back to the good old standard manual adjustment mk1 type. You can get a very nice pedal with the standards. Or, look up how to manually adjust Seat Cordoba drums. There is a bit of a trick to it.
                  Yea, shes almost there I think the wiring is fine because when the wire is grounded the gauge rises.

                  As for the brakes, i have adjusted the handbrake so its only 2 notches now, which is what the manual states it should be. I will bleed the brakes again and see if it changes anything. If i cant get a proper pedal then i will change back to the mk1 brakes.

                  Heres what the passenger rear brake looks like.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Matti89 View Post
                    Yea, shes almost there I think the wiring is fine because when the wire is grounded the gauge rises.

                    As for the brakes, i have adjusted the handbrake so its only 2 notches now, which is what the manual states it should be. I will bleed the brakes again and see if it changes anything. If i cant get a proper pedal then i will change back to the mk1 brakes.

                    Heres what the passenger rear brake looks like.
                    Yep they are the cordoba rears. See the vertical slightly tapered piece on the left-hand side of the pic that is held down with a spring? That is the adjuster wedge. The "trick" involves getting something with a point, like a screwdriver with the end ground to a point, and with the handbrake off (you may even have to loosen it back off a bit) and back wheel jacked up, take one wheel nut out and turn the wheel until you can find the bottom of that wedge. Poke the screwdriver point into the hole where the spring joins. You then lever down that wedge which has a bunch of ratchetty steps in it. You should hear it click a few times. I think the reason it goes out of adjustment is that spring loses tension.

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                    • #11
                      I was wondering if anyone know the jet sizes for a 45 weber. At idle it seems to be running abit rich. My current sizes are: main jet 135, f2 emulsion, 200 air corrector. Idle jets are 55 f9 and the pump jets are 60. In my limited reading the emulsion should be f15 and idle jets 45 or 50 but I'm not 100% sure.

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                      • #12
                        Thought id update this thread.
                        New wheels and tyres were added. I also had all the rust cut out, repaired and re painted.








                        Im also getting a new interior on the weekend so that should freshen it up abit.

                        Its almost ready for a blueslip, which should hopefully be done next week sometime.

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                        • #13
                          Where did you get the rust repaired at and how much did it cost!?


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            In regards to those seats. I am going to strip them out tomorrow and have them ready for pick up on Saturday. But I have to work on Saturday and I don't know if I am going to be done in time to see you pick it up. But the missus will be available to talk to and she knows about it. Fingers crossed I can be done and meet up when you pick the seats up.


                            Only The Good Die Young 45
                            For a better ride, go WIDE!!!
                            VS Commodore V6 Berlina- FOR SALE
                            1979 Golf Mk1- http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...one-92128.html

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by nick_mk1 View Post
                              Where did you get the rust repaired at and how much did it cost!?


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              It was done by a family friend of mine in Smithfield. Cost was under $400 but that was mates rates.

                              ok thats fine i will give you a call tomorrow to confirm everything.

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