Starting trouble

[JustMark]

When i say it clicks it clicks once and engages the starter motor but it doesnt turn over at all. The engine was shut down and wouldnt start again.

9. when i say i hooked the merc battery up, i pulled it out of the merc and put it in the golf then put a jumper cable on it.
10. Transporter when i put it into forth and rocked it I watched the timing belt to see it it would move. Even though it was really hard to move the car it did turn over the engine so i dont think the pistons have seized in the bores. Is this the same result you wanted to see with turning over the engine at the crank pulley?
10. I tried what transporter said and turned on the high beams and had no voltage drop..
11. gldgti i ran a multimeter over the injector pump selenoid and it showed 12.5V with the key off. when i went to turn the ignition on it would drop to 1.1v.


GLDGTI i didnt take off the timing cover as i think that is a bit over my head and if it was broken/ mis adjusted i couldnt fix it myself anyway.

Unless you guys think it is the injector pump selenoid does anyone have a recomendation of where to take the the Golf where they would understand diesels. I am located in Aspendale gardens and i know of The VW place in Dandenong and thats it. Im open to suggestions.

Once again thank you all for your time and effort.

Mark

[Transporter]

9. why did you put the jumper cable on? Make sure the cables from the battery positive to starter motor and battery negative to chassis and the engine earth have good contact.
10. to be sure you could compare how does it feel to turn MB300d and Golf with the socket on the crankshaft, it should feel similar resistance despite mercs 5 cyl's. Rocking the car doesn't give you enough feel for that.
10. Lights should be on hi-beam and when you crank than you read the voltmeter to check the voltage drop. If you don't connect voltmeter, than perhaps watch the light, if it doesn't dim too much.

[silvershadow]

Given all the feedback so far, the most likely cause of the problem is worn bearings in the starter motor causing the armature to "pole" on the field windings - "poling" occurs when the worn bearings allow the armature to move under the influence of the magnetic field generated by the field windings when the starter is activated and lock onto the field windings located on the outer shell of the starter motor. The starter solenoid will click then nothing happens - the reported heating of the battery feed cable is consistent with this problem.

The quickest test for poling is to turn on the headlights, set them on high beam with an assistant watching then turn the ignition to start - if you hear a click and then lights go dim and stay dim while the key is in the start position, the problem is almost certain to be poling or a jammed bendix drive pinion.

An auto electrician can fix these problems at a reasonable cost with either a reconditioned exchange starter motor or repairing your unit.

[Transporter]

An auto electrician can fix these problems at a reasonable cost with either a reconditioned exchange starter motor or repairing your unit.

Yeah, unless there is already to much damage to the rotor, poles and winding. He said he replaced starter motor but he could be unlucky and had 2 of them faulty.

[gldgti]

11. gldgti i ran a multimeter over the injector pump selenoid and it showed 12.5V with the key off. when i went to turn the ignition on it would drop to 1.1v.

BINGO!

what you have described here is majorly wrong. for starters, the proper setup uses a voltage on/open solenoid - so with key on, it should be energised and it will click faintly. with key off there should be 0V there.

its possible (but unlikely) you have a marine engine injector pump stop solenoid in there, but it would be crazy to use that for the road. i would say you defiantely have some wiring issues. definately.
for a test, disconnect the wire going to the solenoid, and run a little wire yourself from the battery positive and touch it on top of the solenoid. if it does a little faint click when you energise it, its ok. likewise, test the starter solenoid wire while its disconnected for key ON power. there should be nothing there with key off.

[JustMark]

Sorry i made a massive boo boo. I shouldnt try to diagnose stuff after a 16 hour shift. I connected the multimeter wrong between the battery and the selenoid. Tonight when i got home i place the multimeter on the selenoid and ground it on the engine. It showed 12 volts with the key turned on. So it looks like the selenoid is OK...

[gldgti]

Sorry i made a massive boo boo. I shouldnt try to diagnose stuff after a 16 hour shift. I connected the multimeter wrong between the battery and the selenoid. Tonight when i got home i place the multimeter on the selenoid and ground it on the engine. It showed 12 volts with the key turned on. So it looks like the selenoid is OK...

ahh ok.. but it does go 'click' whe you turn it on and off right....? just checking

[JustMark]

Transporter... i paid more attention to when i was rocking the car. I could move it but the engine wouldnt turn. So i guess it was moving while making the clutch slip. I then got under the car and tried to turn it over using a socket on the crank shaft pully and for love nor money could i get it to move. I also tried to tow jump start it and again the engine would not move and inch....

So the new question is do you guys think that the engine is terminal?... Or has seized in anyway?

Is the engine likely to sieze after it has been stopped for 10 minute?

GF is getting impatient having to ride to school on her bike.... and before you guys start wondering she s a school teacher....

[gldgti]

ohhh.

i cant remember if you said you checked the oil or not?

does it have a working oil pressure light?

anyway, now the thing to do is basically pull off the timing cover held on witha few bolts on the back/front of the head, and 5mm allen head bolt about halfway down the LHS of the engine, and a coupel of 8mm nuts down lower - easy to spot really.

basically, 1 of 2 things has happened - either the engine has lost oil pressure and siezed, or the timing belt has snapped and now valves are touching pistons. no sugar coating it - its bad news and you wont be able to just fix it.... this is going to b a biggie.

check the timing belt though, because if its not siesed the engine will be re-buildable probably with a new set of valves, followers and guides... but if its siezed, there could be untold damage.

[JustMark]

Transporter... i pulled off the timing cover and the belt seems intact. and i checked the oil and there does not appear to be any water in it....

I do have a spare motor... looks like i have a bit more work to do to swap it over...

now i just have to llo for an engine hoist.

Once again i thank everyone for their time and input...

Mark

[Transporter]

Just make sure that it is not something simple and silly. As it happened to my 1st car (Renault12).
I bought it secondhand with 90,000km on the clock, driving it one day when engine just died on me for no reason. Got it towed home put another battery in it and it made only clicking sounds, I tried to crank it by hand, no joy, crankshaft was rock solid.

I started removing the engine out. Luckily first thing I removed was the starter motor and when I looked at the flywheel through the starter motor opening I saw M8x35 bolt wedged between flywheel and bell housing, removed bolt put the starter motor back in and engine started first turn, it was my lucky day what a relief it was.

Closer look at the bolt reveled where it was coming from. I had a mate who worked at Renault dealership and couple month before the engine stopped he replaced clutch in my car – I couldn't do it myself in snow.

My mate dropped the bolt that holds the starter motor into the bell housing area and didn't find it, (or forgot to find it), he just used another bolt.

[Jmac]

I had a T4 fully lock up too, everyone was jumping at knackered engine. I removed the Serpentine belt and the engine moved, the compressor was seized fully and could not turn the engine with the breaker bar and socket. Just asking , as like Transporter just covering bases now.
cheers
Jmac

[gregozedobe]

As mentioned above ^ it is always worth doing a bit of investigating of some of the more obscure possible explanations, particularly if they are relatively easy and cheap to check on. Can save a lot of time and $$$.

[JustMark]

Thanks for everyones help and suggestions... I have just finished swapping ot the old motor for a spare and everything seems to be running sweet. This motor seems quieter but not as much power. I think and good tune up is in order. Girlfriend is over the moon having her wheels back... Now hen i get some spare time i will pull the old motor apart and try to find out what happened... then maybe built it up into a turbo monster...

Once again I thank everyone on there support and sugestions....

Mark