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Haha yeah 6 wheels also means lots of work if I want them to match..I suppose I'm going to have to mask one up and slap some primer on it to get the effect.
Might do that tomorrow! Pics when ready
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
I had an almost bare-metal wheel sitting in the back of my car for the last week without having the time to work on it, so I thought while I was at work I would give it a sandblast and see how it turns out. Let's just say, I had NO idea how good the sandblaster at work was!! I was expecting quite a rough surface with sand dimples and stuff but nope...I could have paid someone to do it with the same result
This took me about 25 mins. It actually would have been quicker if the sandblaster cabinet was bigger; it was awkward to blast some bits. Pics for kicks:
The great thing about the finish of the sandblasting is that it's READY FOR PAINT. The hi-build 2pac primer will come up nicely. Polishing to follow
So I started sanding/polishing them by hand with 240grit emery paper. Sanding towards the centre of the wheel (ie, following the direction of the spokes), here's some progress shots:
I didn't have any 400 grade wetdry paper so unfortunately I had to jump straight up to 800..this was the wheel after I finished (not quite though, cos I left a few sanding marks )
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
Instead of continuing polishing, I went around to my mate's place and showed him what I had. He grabbed keys for his shop and we went over (to Action Motorcycles in parramatta ) to use the machine polisher!!! BEST - TOOL - EVER. It was basically a bench sander with a shaft on one side that has a tapered thread for buffing wheels.
The easiest way to use this machine is to do it in two steps. Use the heavier wheel for starting the process, and try to keep it steady and even (it's not that hard to use). Then, swap the wheel over to the finishing wheel and constantly move it around so as to get a shine without any buffing marks.
Pics (with the finishing wheel on there):
We buffed and finished one double-spoke:
This shot was after the buffing wheel on all the spokes, I think...lol:
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
After we finished buffing the spokes with the finishing wheel, we did it again using a compound. Unfortunately I didn't get any shots of this happening but basically what you do is put this little block of waxxy compound onto the finishing wheel while it's spinning, and then ''polish'' the surface. It brought it up really well!
We finished using the machine at this point and went over it quickly with a Meguiars All-Metal Polish. Didn't make much of a difference, except that it took out any buffing marks/compound residue that was on the spokes. To polish, all you need to do is grab a rag, spread compound on and buff it around with firm pressure (i used a circular motion because it doesn't swirl like paint does).
Pics:
Here's the finished product, before washing to get rid of the excess compound on the sandblasted areas:
You can see how well the polish process has worked after the wash because it's beading water like my car does! Remember that when you're washing bare polished metal, you don't want to use anything strong. I only used water and a rag, I didn't use any soap or anything because it can potentially dull the surface down.
Here we go, last pics for the update:
Did anyone notice I've polished a lip around the outside too? I dunno how the HELL I'm gonna tape that up for paint but I hope it stays there..
Oh and by the way, I am doing this work, it's my mate in the photo's for the sake of the DIY
I thought about that, but I've already got compound residue rubbed INTO the sandblasted areas so I'd rather paint it.
Besides, the inside of the spokes need to be a bit darker to bring out the look methinks....might mix a bit of metallic black or something in the audi silver....
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
I thought about that, but I've already got compound residue rubbed INTO the sandblasted areas so I'd rather paint it.
Besides, the inside of the spokes need to be a bit darker to bring out the look methinks....might mix a bit of metallic black or something in the audi silver....
Looks good dude. That's exactly what i was thinking of doing with my TT wheels. I guess now i can see if it will look any good before i bother doing it myself, haha.
I tip for hand sanding aluminium is to use some CRC 5.56 (WD40) or kerosene (wear gloves..) or even water works well too, as a lubricant for the wet+dry. It stops the abrasive loading up (getting clogged), gives you a better finish and the abrasive will last longer too.
I would have gone to 400 and then to 800 before polishing the spokes, but i guess being a toolmaker i'm pretty critical and pedantic about getting polished surfaces polished properly..
I tip for hand sanding aluminium is to use some CRC 5.56 (WD40) or kerosene (wear gloves..) or even water works well too, as a lubricant for the wet+dry. It stops the abrasive loading up (getting clogged), gives you a better finish and the abrasive will last longer too.
Good tip mate, also if you use water you can add a little detergent to increase the lubrication and help release the sanded particles from the grit.
Looks good dude. That's exactly what i was thinking of doing with my TT wheels. I guess now i can see if it will look any good before i bother doing it myself, haha.
I tip for hand sanding aluminium is to use some CRC 5.56 (WD40) or kerosene (wear gloves..) or even water works well too, as a lubricant for the wet+dry. It stops the abrasive loading up (getting clogged), gives you a better finish and the abrasive will last longer too.
I would have gone to 400 and then to 800 before polishing the spokes, but i guess being a toolmaker i'm pretty critical and pedantic about getting polished surfaces polished properly..
Good tip mate, also if you use water you can add a little detergent to increase the lubrication and help release the sanded particles from the grit.
Snowy.
Cheers guys I was actually going to ask about this sorta stuff. As I said though, I didn't have any 400 wetdry handy on me and we just went ahead with the polishing even though I did 240/800. The metal finish itself isn't the best because it's got a few dimples/bad spots in it... so if i can be bothered i might re-sandblast it and make it 100% flat.
When I go back to work in the week I'll sandblast the other four wheels (I haven't paint stripped one wheel, couldn't be bothered lol). More to come!
Hoping to paint them this next coming weekend.
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
Cheers guys I was actually going to ask about this sorta stuff. As I said though, I didn't have any 400 wetdry handy on me and we just went ahead with the polishing even though I did 240/800. The metal finish itself isn't the best because it's got a few dimples/bad spots in it... so if i can be bothered i might re-sandblast it and make it 100% flat.
When I go back to work in the week I'll sandblast the other four wheels (I haven't paint stripped one wheel, couldn't be bothered lol). More to come!
Hoping to paint them this next coming weekend.
You will find that if you go large jumps in the grade of the abrasive you are using, you'll end up with the face being "shiney", but it will have scratches in it from the coarser abrasive you started off with.
As a general rule i usually start off with a reasonably fine (320 or 400) grade to start and see how it comes up. If it isn't coming up well (surface is too rough) i will then go lower until i find a grade that cleans the surface up reasonably easy. If you go to coarse to start with, you'll spend forever just trying to get the scratches out you just put in the face with the coarse sheet. Remember- Polishing is just a process of making the scratches smaller and smaller until you can't see them with your naked eye.
If you want to make it flat, go back to like 120 emery cloth. Get a rectangular stick of wood that is comfortable to hold and radius the end of it. Then you can tear a strip off and wrap it around the end of the stick and use the radiused corner to knock the scratches out. This will also unsure you get it flat because it stops you from following the divits and contours on the face you are polishing.
You can continue to use the stick to polish it right through to the 800 if you wish, but i usually don't bother once i've gotten it flat.
I usually use WD40 or kero when using emery cloth as i've found it works best.
PS: If you don't know what i mean with that polishing stick thing, let me know and i'll take a pic of mine tomorrow..
)
Remember that when you're washing bare polished metal, you don't want to use anything strong. I only used water and a rag, I didn't use any soap or anything because it can potentially dull the surface down.
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