Finished boot install

[Soundofav6]

Thanks for your input guys, so basically I need to have the the door pocket sealed, I did use a seringe and filled in some gaps with silicon, I felt air pumping out while I was driving. made a bit of difference

"Then also inserted some dacron filler only a little bit behind the speakers"
Does that mean I should fill in the massive hole behing where the speaker magnet sits?

Just one thing before I start sealing cracks and holes, are 6.5" woofers "volume sensitive" like subwoofers ? I would hate to chisel out fillers.

"dacron filler " is that a special type of filler ?

[glidn]

yeah general rule of thumb, 6" are also space sensetive, hence you end you installing more or less dacron behind it, yeah you can put the dacron directly behind the speaker over the hole.

one other thing you can try is this, cover the rear of the speaker with panty hose. but it has to be streched onto the back fo the speaker. That will trick the speaker into thinking it's in a larger box than it really is.

Generally it makes it think it in 2-3 times larger enclosure than it really is.

Hope this helps.

[Soundofav6]

one other thing you can try is this, cover the rear of the speaker with panty hose. but it has to be streched onto the back fo the speaker. That will trick the speaker into thinking it's in a larger box than it really is.

Generally it makes it think it in 2-3 times larger enclosure than it really is.

Hope this helps.

WOOo.. thats new.. so what happens if you have a bigger encloure?

JUstify this.... in the shop, they have the speakers display all mounted on wood, MDF with nothing behind it. but it sounds AWESOME. it's nothing like that in my car.

Could that also because the speakers are low in the car and mounted on ear level in the shop with in big encloused room ?

[Mr ©harisma]

Ok so the door, as you can see the stock door.

Then I added amost 1 sheet of deadener to the inner skin and placed a dynasorb pad directly behind the woofer. This will help stop the rear sound waves from bouncing around the door and interfearing with the next cycle. i.e. it stop cancellation.

Then I added a sheet to the outer skin and put a MDF spacer.. I then siliconed around the spacer and added a second layer of deadener around where the speaker is and over the spacer.

Lastly I added the woofer and wired it all up.

I wouldn't bother with dacron if possible. In a sealed enclosure if you make it larger you will decrease the -3db point i.e. it will play lower but at the expense of efficiency. Now since we are talking about mid bass, there is no reason why would really want them to play lower. If you want them to play lower, buy speakers that will do it ( Morel, Oz Audio, Dynaudio etc ). This is why we have a sub woofer. I wouldn't worry to much about having it in your sub enclosure either unless for some reason you can not build one big enough.

[Soundofav6]

I get ya.. thanks for your pics !!!
the thing is us mk3s we are one step behind, the speaker is mounted on the door card instead of the door. So I probably have to stablise the door card, that is sealing the door card.

So my first step, MDF a spacer for a solid mounting point. seal the spacer on door card. seal off all cracks on holes on door card. dynamat the door card ?

[glidn]

I get ya.. thanks for your pics !!!
the thing is us mk3s we are one step behind, the speaker is mounted on the door card instead of the door. So I probably have to stablise the door card, that is sealing the door card.

So my first step, MDF a spacer for a solid mounting point. seal the spacer on door card. seal off all cracks on holes on door card. dynamat the door card ?

Yeah i know, hence i gave you the advise i did, as that is exactly what i had to do in my vr6.

Mr ©harisma - as he said yes you would decrease the -3db point, but you ahve the choice of sound ok and blending or end up have a cruddy sound stage.

Soundofav6 - as you stated, Unfortunately this is generally why they sound good in the shop, it a wide open area alot less points to rebound off of. Also the parator board is usually very very sturdy again improving the sound, and last but not least the front and rear sound wave very very rarely ever meet. Therefore only letting you hear the music and sound waves coming from the front of the speaker.

[Mrk_Mickey]

I'm too lazy to figure it out guys, so could someone tell me quickly how to take the front and rear door trim all off? I'm about to put my new Kickers w/crossovers into the doors and need to remove whatever won't be used..

[Mr ©harisma]

Best thing is for some Dynaxorb or Focal Chant planes behind your woofers and deaden as much as you can to separate the front of the woofer from the back. Deadening the back of the woofer will help absorb some of the rear waves as well helping to create a chamber. Don't bother with Darcon. Its un-neccessary if you have decent tuning options via a deck / EQ or amp.

[glidn]

Best thing is for some Dynaxorb or Focal Chant planes behind your woofers and deaden as much as you can to separate the front of the woofer from the back. Deadening the back of the woofer will help absorb some of the rear waves as well helping to create a chamber. Don't bother with Darcon. Its un-neccessary if you have decent tuning options via a deck / EQ or amp.

Hey have you ever seen the speaker location of a mk3 in the door pocket.

I very much doubt he would be able to fit dynxorb or focal chant in there.
i could not hence i whent and installed dacron.
seriously it damn shallow.

As for removal of the door cards

pull the cover that the power window switch is in, there will be 2 screws be hind there. Then simply go around the edges of the door skin, and clip them off one by one. The chances are that the clips will break. Not to worry hiot glue gun and hot glue will fix that in about 1 minute. it's that easy and it get almost back to original strength.

You can choose to run new speaker wire, but seriously in the conncter type of the door i would not bother. You can use the factory wiring.

Just remember to remove the Tweeter on the dash out of the wiring.

And no that theres only low frequencies from the factory speaker with the tweeter inline.

Tweeter inself as a cap on it to cut of frequencies i think i was around 3000ish mark if i can remember correctly.

Hope this helps.

[Mr ©harisma]

Dude a dynasorb pad is about 4 or 5mm thick.. make room lol.

[glidn]

Dude a dynasorb pad is about 4 or 5mm thick.. make room lol.

haha

yeah i know i have it in my mk4 golf doors.

well i could not as my focal 165A1's magnet pressed up againts the door skin. behind the pocket.

[Mr ©harisma]

do you per chance have a picture of these Mk3 doors?

Perhaps a pod may be an option.

[glidn]

do you per chance have a picture of these Mk3 doors?

Perhaps a pod may be an option.

um not sure i'll have to try and dig a picture up, only have a picture of the components already installed.

Door pod is surely possible, i started making a pod to except 2 6's or 8 and 6 or what ever.

But only finished the rear never finished off the pods, but the idea would have been to simply un screw the factory door pocket/speaker mount. Then simply slot these in there with your favourite choice of speakers.

but i guess if i had too i could finish them off.

[ScienceVR6]

um not sure i'll have to try and dig a picture up, only have a picture of the components already installed.

Door pod is surely possible, i started making a pod to except 2 6's or 8 and 6 or what ever.

But only finished the rear never finished off the pods, but the idea would have been to simply un screw the factory door pocket/speaker mount. Then simply slot these in there with your favourite choice of speakers.

but i guess if i had too i could finish them off.

I am playing with the idea of door pods to take a pair of 6.5" but to look as stock as posible. Maybe cut and shut a couple of sets of door trims to do so.

[glidn]

I am playing with the idea of door pods to take a pair of 6.5" but to look as stock as posible. Maybe cut and shut a couple of sets of door trims to do so.

What you can do, or at least what i have done so far.
is the following.
make a mould of the door skin with the pocket taken off.

Then you can merely make a moulding of the factory door pocket.
cut the front off just in front of the little plastic brace on it. You can than make a decent sized pod and have it looking farely stock too.

Hope this helps.