MK5 stereo install advice

[Greg Roles]

Hello all,

I'm going to purchase a golf in the next several weeks, and the one mod I want to do first up is put a decent sound system in it. Having done several systems over the years I pretty much have that side under control, but wondered if anyone who has done one in a mark 5 could give me any up front advice as to things to watch out for, tips and tricks, basically the hindsight side of an install. I hear there are plenty of things to rattle....

I aim to replace the head with a current Alpine, run the front 6" splits and 12" boxed sub off a 4 channel amp, and drive some reasonable 6"ers in the rear shelf straight from the head for fill. I will run stand-alone power wiring, to and from an audio specific battery. I'll be dynamatting everywhere along the way.

Anything in particular that rattles or is tricky to get apart / breaks easy?

Always nicer to know up front

thanks for any advice!

[STV4SYT]

In the FAQ section, the first link is how to remove the stereo, has lots of pics etc to give u an idea what to expect.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=7059

[Greg Roles]

Thanks Steve,

Thanks for that and it is indeed very helpful, and it sounds like the dash is a bit flimsy, so good to know up front.

I'm mainly wondering how aftermarket speakers fit in the doors, does the door opener rod rattle, is the car going to flip out if I remove the radio unit, stuff like that.

anyone?

[Mischa]

Thanks Steve,

Thanks for that and it is indeed very helpful, and it sounds like the dash is a bit flimsy, so good to know up front.

I'm mainly wondering how aftermarket speakers fit in the doors, does the door opener rod rattle, is the car going to flip out if I remove the radio unit, stuff like that.

anyone?

to make your life easy i suggest getting a face plate that converts the unique golf size slot into one double din or two single din slots. sorry thats all i can suggest

[ScienceVR6]

Hello all,

I'm going to purchase a golf in the next several weeks, and the one mod I want to do first up is put a decent sound system in it. Having done several systems over the years I pretty much have that side under control, but wondered if anyone who has done one in a mark 5 could give me any up front advice as to things to watch out for, tips and tricks, basically the hindsight side of an install. I hear there are plenty of things to rattle....

I aim to replace the head with a current Alpine, run the front 6" splits and 12" boxed sub off a 4 channel amp, and drive some reasonable 6"ers in the rear shelf straight from the head for fill. I will run stand-alone power wiring, to and from an audio specific battery. I'll be dynamatting everywhere along the way.

Anything in particular that rattles or is tricky to get apart / breaks easy?

Always nicer to know up front

thanks for any advice!

Why are you using a second battery for just one amp, and a VERY basic install?
Unnessesary.

I'm using 2 amp, (4ch and mono, both very powerfull) On the standard battery with no voltage drops on 4 gauge cableing. While dynamat is usfull, I don't belive it nessesary on a MK5 with just splits and a 12".
I have a set of 3 way splits, a set of 2 way splits and a set of co-ax in my MK3 with no dyamat, and it sounds fantastic. Why not put the rear speakers in the standard speaker locations? Thats why there there. Trust me, avoid cutting into the shelf. Makes it look dodgy.

[Greg Roles]

Hey Science, thanks for the reply.

Great to hear that you figure Dynamat is uneccessary. That answers my main query.

Sorry it seems my first post wasn't clear, but I didn't want to go into boring detail just to ask if stuff rattles or is easily broken. I will be dynamatting the car anyhow, as I simply see the benefit. Glad you are happy with your setup.
It might "only" be a 12" but it's a Boston G5 with a 12" radiator....so it tends to make things rattle.

I will be replacing the stock battery with a deep cycle audio specific one. Whilst my install is indeed simple that one amp is a bit of an old school monster, and it does not like a voltage drop at all. Puts out some good RMS numbers on the meter though! Plus I've already got the battery....

I will be using the stock rear holes and not cutting any metal. It's just fill from the rear anyhow.

Thanks guys, I just need the car now!

[ScienceVR6]

sorry, at first you just sounded like the noobs i deal with in other forums with FULLY SICK VN commodores, who just want there sony 12" to pop out the windows, but then they also want it to sound good. And it's never going to do either. I like the boston G5. Good crisp sound, and i'll be keen to here your thoughts on the radiator. I have seen them, but never heard one used.
As for the rattles, i think your pretty safe with the MK5, they are very well bolted togther.

As for the battery, i thought you where going twin batterys, that i definatly can't see the point of for a small install.

[Greg Roles]

Hey science, no probs, I know what you mean. I never talk stereo even though I love it, cause you always end up talking to some goose who mentions that their speakers are high wattage and thus way louder. A lot of misinformation out there.

Once it all goes in, I'll give you my opinion, for what it's worth!

[Mr ©harisma]

Great to hear that you figure Dynamat is uneccessary. That answers my main query.

Dynamat is a neccessary evil. You will need it. I used a bulk pack plus 2 sheets in the bora. Don't forget about Dynasorb behind your mids ( or Focal chant )

It might "only" be a 12" but it's a Boston G5 with a 12" radiator....so it tends to make things rattle.

Prepare for rattles dude. I had one of those running off an Audison SRx2s and everything shakes. In the old car it was much much worse. Look forward to very low extension. I have since replaced mine with a OZ ME 12.2. Wanted something with more punch.

I will be replacing the stock battery with a deep cycle audio specific one. Thats a great idea dude. I run an Optima D34M and a 200A earthing kit. No cap needed with good earths.

Good luck with it all. Be very careful of the clips, for some reason they break very easily in the VW's. Other than that my install was fairly straight forward.

[glidn]

you can run either the JL audio CSX-635 i think from memory, they have the 3 way set, so you can utilies all 3 speakers in the door.

or you can run with the entry level focal 3 ways from memory there 4inch is also shallowish.

For the mid you cannot realistic run larger than a 47mm depth for the 3 - 4" mid.

With the 6" mid you can run up to a 7" which a mere spacer.

but do remember to seal the door with dynamat or hushmat or anything like that. You will thank yourself in the long run.

[Greg Roles]

Hey guys!

Thanks for the input.

Dynamat is already sitting downstairs, and I've got plenty. It was always going to go in.

I did notice the 3 way holes in the front doors ( nice! ), but decided to just go 2 ways. Both because the 3 way options are more limited ( and expensive in the nice stuff! ) and I already have some very nice Boston pro's ready to go in from my last ride.

Am tossing up a sub though, for there isn't a stack of space. Never tried one of those under the seat jobs, and given how a decent sub needs volume I am unsure how they would really be effective, but it's an option??

The G5 sub I had my heart set on is going to halve the boot!

Much to ponder.....

But thanks for the info!!

[Mr ©harisma]

You might have to get creative with the install. Maybe a good 10inch in the spare tire well? The G5 10inch only needs 0.5-0.6cuft.

If you can not afford to loose 1cuft of boot for the 12inch then it is going to be difficult to get the sound your after.

Hertz have some decent 3 way splits with shallow mids, ESK and HSK 163's, however they are not going to sound as good as the Pro's ( well the Mille 3 ways with the ribbon tweeters will sound awesome!!).

[glidn]

Well JL Audio make an of ther shelf 10" sub and box for your car. But to be honest, you could easily get an 8" RE re audio sub in there. Before everyone starts laughing, these are some very impressive subs.
There is a company here in NZ that has managed 140.4DB from one single 8.

And another company here that has managed 142.2 on a ported dual 8" setup. But i guess the best thing is that the really blend very well with the front stage and if need be can crank.

Also they only require a mere 0.3cubic feet, but i would recommend up to a 0.5cubic foot box sealed.

[Mr ©harisma]

Dude the DD components ( 6.5inch ) handle 200WRMS and have hit 140db on termilab. They also make a 8inch little wonder. It doesn't matter how loud it goes, just how good it sounds.

[glidn]

Yeah i know DD makes an 8 but unlike Aussie, there are only 8 of them in existance in NZ, and no one will get rid of theres.

The Crowd that managed to get 140DB out of a single RE audio RE8.
Also managed 135.1DB from a single DD1008 running single coil and 200wrms, so there is alot of head room.

I know there is great potential with many speakers. But i guess it really depends on what the single person wants from there stereo, be it SQ or SPL or just something to fill the gaps.

But i guess it's up to each individual to choose what they want from there system.