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Hi,
Just had the following installed into my Mk6 GTi for an all up cost, including labour of around the top end of your budget plus a bit. I have the RNS 510 unit also...
Am absolutely blown away with the sound quality and the balance/tuning. The installation is completely stealthy including the Focal Active Sub which fits, downward facing, into the spare tyre area. Had to dispense with the polystyrene tool container and they now just sit in a tool wrap.
If you can't afford it all at once, you could dispense with the Audison BitOne but after listening to it in the mix and out of the mix, you probably won't want to! The sound can be customised and tuned to suit with multiple profiles loaded depending on style of music you happen to be listening to.
Cheers
I have read good things about the audison! Glad you went with that. Any pics of the sub installed? That's an interesting location. You don't lose your spare do you? Just the foam? I went with a pancake sub built into the left "hole".
...The sound can be customised and tuned to suit with multiple profiles loaded depending on style of music you happen to be listening to...
I like the idea of being able to adjust a car sound system to suit different styles of music. Like I said before, I love Rock, Hard Rock, Heavy Metal, etc, but when touring down south with my wife she would prefer more classical and easy listening music. Hence, a sound system which is not hard wired to just one style (e.g. Rock'n'Roll) would be very good for me.
Every style of music should sound good without adjusting the eq once it's set on a good system
Exactly right... purist hifi systems don't have bass or treble controls, let alone EQ (shudder) to masticate and mash up the purity of the signal. A good quality system transmits the purity of the source with as little alteration (read distortion) as possible to recreate the fidelity (or otherwise) of the original recording. From a digital source, the only purpose of the sound system should be to recreate as close to the original analog signal as possible, and then amplify it.
Having said that, I realise that cars are far from the ideal listening environment, but I am still of the belief that once the system is set 'right' for the car, then very little adjustment should ever be required... EQ adjustments are there to make up for limitations or short-comings of the system and / or listening environment (for example the forced location of the speakers may result in certain frequencies being unduly magnified by glass / metal surfaces, or absorbed by seating, etc), not for tweaking based on what sort of music that is being played. So you set up so that the amplified signal in the car matches the reference signal as closely as possible, then you leave it alone.
Otherwise tweaking results in a non "truthful" (as in hi-fidelity) reproduction of the original source, an altered version of it.
They built the subwoofer into the wrong position (I wanted it in the left rear quarter panel, but a box was built behind the passenger rear seat. Miscommunication from the sales person to the builders); the amps couldn't fit under the seats so they had to mount them onto a panel on the right rear rear quarter panel; and now they find out that the RNS510 needs a canbus accessory module for the signal processor otherwise the amps remain on even though the engine is switched off.
To those who added amps to your RNS510, did you have to have this part installed as well?
So, I've got the car back to drive (minus usage of the RNS) while they order this part in from the East coast, and it goes in again for 2 days next week to finish off with a rebuilt subwoofer housing; wiring etc.
It's just going to cost me in terms of inconvenience and time...but I'd rather they do a good job. They've been pretty nice about it and are ordering the part at their cost.
Your amps need an auto remote turn on.. and dont forget the RNS510 sends a signal when you leave the car as its on standby mode for 20mins... not as easy as you think all this.
Sounds like they don't know what they are doing is it a good shop? Hopefully they'll sort it out, worth waiting for a decent job. Perhaps say you wanted a stealth sub, otherwise you could have got any premade sub box.
They built the subwoofer into the wrong position (I wanted it in the left rear quarter panel, but a box was built behind the passenger rear seat. Miscommunication from the sales person to the builders); the amps couldn't fit under the seats so they had to mount them onto a panel on the right rear rear quarter panel; and now they find out that the RNS510 needs a canbus accessory module for the signal processor otherwise the amps remain on even though the engine is switched off.
To those who added amps to your RNS510, did you have to have this part installed as well?
So, I've got the car back to drive (minus usage of the RNS) while they order this part in from the East coast, and it goes in again for 2 days next week to finish off with a rebuilt subwoofer housing; wiring etc.
It's just going to cost me in terms of inconvenience and time...but I'd rather they do a good job. They've been pretty nice about it and are ordering the part at their cost.
Sounds pretty ordinary to me. I'd have gone ballistic.
I'm using an LC6i between my RNS510 and my arc audio amp. It is a signal sensing device, so when the RNS510 has power and is active, the LC6i turns on. The arc audio ks125.4 mini also has auto-sense turn-on and -off, so that is fully automatic as well. I have never had any problems with the setup. As G-rig says, the setup will stay on after you turn ignition off for up to 30 minutes.
I don't know how to go ballistic. I'm afraid that if I do, they won't finish the job properly. Ideally, it would be great if they offered something for the inconvenience - a discount or something. But at least they're not asking me to pay any more.
The INT XBP description says it has signal sense auto turn on, but they guys said that won't work without this additional module. They even called Soundstream NZ. Anyway, I'm glad they're not just making stuff up. Must be the first new VW they're doing.
I would hope not, but maybe you are right Let me know if you find out if they had previous RNS510 experience. Also, if you think they are good I may approach them first. btw, did you ask them beforehand if they were knowledgeable with the VW car range, in particular your car, or the RNS510 system?
As I'm also looking at some sound system improvements for my Golf (which has the RNS510) I am now thinking that I should first look for a car audio shop which has experience in VW's (preferable the Golf) and the RNS510 system. I love my music!
QUESTION: Does anyone out there know of any good Perth (WA) car audio shops with RNS510 experience?
I did ask them last yr. I didn't think that they had any experience with the RNS510 and certainly not with the Jetta body. But anyway, after this, they will. Hee hee. I don't think it would be terribly difficult to bring their professional knowledge across, unless the RNS510 is such a complex piece of technology. But CANBUS systems and the like are on more modern cars these days, so I expect their will be familiar with that. The sales guy might not, but the installers certainly knew what they were talking about. Then again, I'm no pro, so I couldn't ask them questions to test their knowledge.
Their service and intent to find solutions have been admirable though. Will post final feedback after they finish the install next week.
Interested to hear how others go with the RNS510 & BitOne. When wired up to work normally like OEM using high level input + auto remote turn on I got a pop through the speakers.
It's a problem that exists as the HU fires up when you unlock the car (The RNS510 has standby modes as well that stay on for approx. 20min after you leave the car which is still sending a signal to the amps and this could give you battery drain).
It wasn't every time but happens unless you unlock and start the car before the Bit One finishes it's turn on sequence.
The idea is to wire the bitone to ignition so the amps will be off when you leave the car, but then there is no sound unless the engine is on. Not really a problem but doesn't work 100% like stock.
I didn't get around to it but Marty recommended using a PAC SWI-CAN to interface with the CANBUS.
Interested to hear how others go with the RNS510 & BitOne. When wired up to work normally like OEM using high level input + auto remote turn on I got a pop through the speakers.
My current system runs well and i do not have any POP at all. The only time i get pop is when i have changed the setting in the VAGCOM to say no audio system installed.....other than that it is perfect. Oh i run a bitone and 4 Arc KS minis
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