118TSI Forged Piston Engine Rebuild

[Mk R]

Wossner forged pistons are actually 10 grams heavier (250g vs 240g for stock - this is just the piston, the wrist pins are the same weight..(340 total vs 330g)

More material has been removed in areas on the backside of the piston to try and get the weight down closer to stock - forged pistons being denser aluminium are usually heavier.

Yeah ok, that makes sense. Did either of you guys also install after market con-rods? I've seen the ZRP ones online for sale for about 300 pounds.

[rygreen93]

Yeah ok, that makes sense. Did either of you guys also install after market con-rods? I've seen the ZRP ones online for sale for about 300 pounds.

Nope, standard rods going back into mine. Most people I have spoken to reckon that they are plenty strong enough for as much as you could possibly squeeze out of our engine. They are pretty thick. I was holding a GTI rod and one of mine and there really isn't a massive difference in size and thickness. Although some of us almost run stock GTI power the GTI rods are good for a hell of a lot of power so ours can't be that far behind in my opinion.

[blower]

Nope, standard rods going back into mine. Most people I have spoken to reckon that they are plenty strong enough for as much as you could possibly squeeze out of our engine. They are pretty thick. I was holding a GTI rod and one of mine and there really isn't a massive difference in size and thickness. Although some of us almost run stock GTI power the GTI rods are good for a hell of a lot of power so ours can't be that far behind in my opinion.

Agreed, everything i have heard is the same and looking at the conrod's i'd say they'd handle anything we could squeeze out of this engine. Stock rod's went back into mine as well.

[rygreen93]

*If anyone knows how to rotate images please let me know*

So another couple of weeks have gone by without my car. Bit of an update on how things are going. I should be picking it up tomorrow at some stage which I am excited but weirdly quite nervous about.

Once the pistons arrived, the block, rods and pistons were sent off to a local engineering company to be bored and have all the clearances checked. I didn't have much to do with this and didn't see the engine after it had been bored, but here are a few pictures that the garage sent me. We had a bit of an issue with the top ring. Seems like Wossner sent the correct lower rings but the top ring was way to big. Luckily Wossner in Australia had a spare which was sent up

Wossner Pistons in the fresh block

New Pistons, Stock Rods



After everything arrived, things started to move pretty quickly. As I said before the only parts that were updated on my engine was the timing chain assembly which was updated to the revision that went in the CTHD engine. Other than that nothing else was changed. I did put a new set of BKR7EIX plugs in it.

Top End back on



Supercharger and Turbo back on


A common issue with cars these days is carbon on the intake and exhaust valves. I was expecting a lot more carbon on my valves but I think that due to the way I drive the car it wasn't as bad as expected. My next mod once I get the car back will be to fit an oil catch can to reduce this build up in the future. The garage has a walnut blaster that connects up to the intake port to blast away all the carbon.

Before


After



The engine has been started and is apparently running very smooth. Tomorrow they will be taking it for a drive about 20kms and reading engine outputs and looking for any fault codes. Assuming that all goes well I will be pick it up around lunch. The only thing that wasn't installed was the S3 intercooler which they didn't do because they didn't want to cut the stock pipes. Personally I would prefer them to cut the stock pipes and install it but I will see what they say when I get there. They have agreed to install it at no cost. I will post once I have taken it for a drive to let you know how it goes.

[ope126]

Thanks for the update mate!

[blower]

Good job!

My intake valves looked similar when i took photos down the ports before rebuilding my engine.

When i actually got the head off and took out all the valves, it looked a lot worse - the long ports means the camera can't get close up and you don't see the mess they are really in :





Good job you got yours cleaned!

[rygreen93]

So far so good! Got the car back yesterday afternoon and it seems to be running really smooth. I have 1000kms on run-in oil and I have been told to keep it below 4k RPM and take it easy on the throttle to let everything settle. Really happy with it all, its looking very clean. They got the S3 intercooler in as well which I am very happy about.

[ope126]

So far so good! Got the car back yesterday afternoon and it seems to be running really smooth. I have 1000kms on run-in oil and I have been told to keep it below 4k RPM and take it easy on the throttle to let everything settle. Really happy with it all, its looking very clean. They got the S3 intercooler in as well which I am very happy about.

Great news mate! Glad to hear that you have finally got your dub back!!!

[Lucas_R]

So far so good! Got the car back yesterday afternoon and it seems to be running really smooth. I have 1000kms on run-in oil and I have been told to keep it below 4k RPM and take it easy on the throttle to let everything settle. Really happy with it all, its looking very clean. They got the S3 intercooler in as well which I am very happy about.

Good to hear - hope its all smooth sailing from here on in.

[Mk R]

So far so good! Got the car back yesterday afternoon and it seems to be running really smooth. I have 1000kms on run-in oil and I have been told to keep it below 4k RPM and take it easy on the throttle to let everything settle. Really happy with it all, its looking very clean. They got the S3 intercooler in as well which I am very happy about.

Great news! did they end up cutting the clamps off the intercooler hose to make it fit?

[rygreen93]

Great news! did they end up cutting the clamps off the intercooler hose to make it fit?

Yeah they cut the clamps off and cut the one hose at an angle and it looks really clean.

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[blower]

Nice one! - glad you got it back and its running well, happy days

I filled mine with a cheap oil, ran it very gently for about 5 miles, dumped that out (used it to remove any unwanted particles that may have got in during the rebuild).

I then filled with running-in oil, and as they boldly printed on the bottle - once up to temperature, I drove it hard, varying rev's a lot and doing plenty of full throttle pulls. Did this for a few hundred miles and then emptied that out and filled with normal.

I've since done 4000 miles and the oil level hasn't moved at all on the stick

[rygreen93]

Nice one! - glad you got it back and its running well, happy days

I filled mine with a cheap oil, ran it very gently for about 5 miles, dumped that out (used it to remove any unwanted particles that may have got in during the rebuild).

I then filled with running-in oil, and as they boldly printed on the bottle - once up to temperature, I drove it hard, varying rev's a lot and doing plenty of full throttle pulls. Did this for a few hundred miles and then emptied that out and filled with normal.

I've since done 4000 miles and the oil level hasn't moved at all on the stick

Yeah so mine was started up on mineral-oil which was cleared out after 30 minutes of dyno running. (Varying revs and load)

Then they filled it with running-in oil but funnily enough they have told me to keep it under 4k rpm to protect the turbo. Apparently the running-in oil is also mineral oil and because it does not have as much lubrication capacity at high heat (which is perfect for an engine while breaking in but not so much for a hot turbo), so I have been fairly tame with it so far. They told me to take it easy for the first 1000km's and then they will put synthetic in it and let me boot it. Which I am still nervous about, but I know its going to be happy.

Was yours a bit rough for the first 20 seconds or so when it was cold on the running-in oil?

[ope126]

Yeah so mine was started up on mineral-oil which was cleared out after 30 minutes of dyno running. (Varying revs and load)

Then they filled it with running-in oil but funnily enough they have told me to keep it under 4k rpm to protect the turbo. Apparently the running-in oil is also mineral oil and because it does not have as much lubrication capacity at high heat (which is perfect for an engine while breaking in but not so much for a hot turbo), so I have been fairly tame with it so far. They told me to take it easy for the first 1000km's and then they will put synthetic in it and let me boot it. Which I am still nervous about, but I know its going to be happy.

Was yours a bit rough for the first 20 seconds or so when it was cold on the running-in oil?

Don't be too concerned, that is just the cold start process.
All of them do it.

[rygreen93]

Don't be too concerned, that is just the cold start process.
All of them do it.

Na mine doesn't do it. I have a modified tune so I no longer get the rough idle on starting to heat the Cat. I always get the wining from the compressor which I assume we would all get as it warms up. But I never had the rough idle on start-up. My brother has the 90tsi which does it.

This is more to do with either the fact that the mineral oil is draining of the engine over night as it does not stick as well or my second theory is that while the new pistons are cold there is a lot of blow by and after about 20 seconds that seals up and then she runs smooth. That's my theory anyways.

Do you ever go to the breakfast laps Ope126 ?

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