118TSI Forged Piston Engine Rebuild

[jamaicanjetta]

Yep so started it up this morning and it's 100% the supercharger. The small belt runs and when I put my hands over the pod filter to increase the pressure you can clearly hear it pull harder to bring in the required amount of air. Must be exactly what you said blower. It's using it to heat up the cat. While the supercharger is running like that the revs are about 1100 and as soon as it shuts down it drops to 800-900. Weird that nobody else has this. Would be interesting to know someone else with a 2012 twincharger or even a newer beetle to know if it does the same.

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I have a 2012 jetta twincharger and I've never heard mine do this

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[DrTurbo]

Very interesting thread, I have bought myself a broken CAVD engine to collect parts for building a new engine, as mine has got 332000kms on it. Still pulls hard and sounds good, but time is no longer on its side.
However, I would like to mention that the cylinderwalls of these engines are coated, and this coating will be gone with a rebore, and thus taking away a freat deal of the strength and friction of the walls.

[Rawcpoppa]

Wow 300+k kms! Did you ever have trouble with it?


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[DrTurbo]

Not really, The car har 332000kms, engine 310000 roughly. Changed injectors once around 70000, and turbo at 280000, because the exhaust blow -by valve was worn out and did'nt close,but that's about it.
Transmission (DSG q200) has given me far more trouble than the engine, Replaced clutches and flywheels twice. Never replaced timingchain.
I think the secret to a long life is frequent oil changes.
I started out with Motul Excess 5w-40, ran this for some years, and changed to Total Quarts 5w40 and used this for a few years ( 2009 my scirocco).
Also tried both Castrol and Mobil 1, but oil consumpsion was high with these brands. Just started to use Fuchs GTI 5w40 last week, just to see how it works. I change oil every 10000kms, and rarely have to top up, except from in wintertime.
I run NGK BKR7EIX plugs, and supersprint decat exhaust.
Upgrading to S3 intercooler, new airintake and Revo chip, hopefully in April or May.....

[Mk R]

The plasma coating can be re applied after a re-bore. I know there are folks in the UK that offer this service...

Plasma coatings provide a robust solution to managing friction for cylinder bores - Surface Technology

I've never heard of a bored CAVD engine failing through the cylinder wall and never heard of a forged piston failing in one.

Interested to hear how you go with the REVO stage 2 map. I run the APR stage 2 file with a turbo back milltek, K&N air box, S3 intercooler, NGK BKR7EIX. I get boost limp occasionally but it is cleared by re setting the map mode.

Please let us know how you go! Not many people talk about tuning these anymore.

[DrTurbo]

I will keep you posted...

[RMayzu]

hey guys, so i have recently done the same thing too my mk6 golf 118tsi cavd i have done the whole processes myself, did you install the pistons yourself, if so what did you set the ring end gaps ?
as i have pretty much put the car back together and i think i f'd up the gap.

[Mk R]

hey guys, so i have recently done the same thing too my mk6 golf 118tsi cavd i have done the whole processes myself, did you install the pistons yourself, if so what did you set the ring end gaps ?
as i have pretty much put the car back together and i think i f'd up the gap.

Not sure mate, sorry. You may have better luck asking around the European Scirocco forums and Seat Cupra forums. There were way more twinchargers over there.

Guy with the username Blower would be a good guy to ask. He used to post here but haven't seen him round much. I think he's on Scirocco Central more frequently.

[blower]

hey guys, so i have recently done the same thing too my mk6 golf 118tsi cavd i have done the whole processes myself, did you install the pistons yourself, if so what did you set the ring end gaps ?
as i have pretty much put the car back together and i think i f'd up the gap.

VW official specs for ring gap on 1.4 TSI CAVD/CTHD:

[RMayzu]

hey thanks for that i have the full workshop manual(same as you posted)
but what i don't understand is that everything i read and watch about ring gaps say.... that number x the bore size.
now my understanding is wouldn't the workshop manual not just state the size it should be.

wossner's installation instructions state 0.006" (0.1524mm) x bore (76.5mm) or (3.011811")

so my calculations say the ring gap should be 0.018" or 0.46mm

i have read wiseco ring gap instructions a few other mobs but vw workshop manual does not state number x bore just a single measurement.

does anyone know which is correct ?

[brad]

does anyone know which is correct ?

Do it as per the ring / piston manufacturers instructions. The .006 seems a fraction big and usually ring 2 is a fraction bigger than ring 1.

Have you enquired direct to manufacturer and explained your usage as they may assume a turbo is being driven hard.

[selexon]

Has anyone else moved forward on these 1.4 rebuilds?

I have a 2012 Jetta which throw some fault codes and has 125psi on cylinder 4. Cylinders 1,2,3 are sitting on 142psi.

Cleared all codes with obdeleven and seems to run and idle ok.

Noted I have not taken it 3000 rpm since.

I have been looking at performing a stage 2 tune and think the time is now. I am pricing up some wiseco and cp pistons.

Does anyone know if these can rebuilt in chassis or does the engine need to be removed.


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[Mk R]

I ended up just getting a used, later year long block, didn't rebuild. I don't own the car anymore but I know it's been going strong for 3-4 years on the APR stage 2 tune since then.

The engine had to come out for that but you'll want to do that anyway. If you truly love the car and want to keep it for a long time then by all means build the engine but you'll be making an investment that could be putting you in a GTI or R etc. If I were going down the rebuild route i'd suggest the following:

The Engine
If you're rebuilding the bottom end I'd suggest getting a second block from a wrecker or someone who had a blown engine. This means you can still drive your car in the mean time. Get the block, strip it, have the block checked for gouges/scrapes, get the block honed if required. Get an engine builder to blueprint the whole thing so the bore and piston in each cylinder match perfectly.

Induction
If you're going to all that trouble you can rebuild your turbo while you're at it. Get the manifold/turbo hotside ported and polished to match the gaskets and ceramic coated. This might help you with turbo spool and give you a little more flow up high and it doesn't cost all that much. The stock IC gets heat soaked quickly so you want to get a Golf R one if you don't have that already.

Exhaust
Try and get a downpipe that doesn't have a cat or get an exhaust fabricated to move the cat further down so the exhaust can be wrapped or ceramic coated or both. There's some fluid lines that run close to the downpipe so you want to wrap those in insulation reflective tape or similar so you don't melt them.


Tune
I had the APR stage 2 tune and I found I had to constantly keep resetting the map selection every drive as the ECU would go into a bit of a soft limp mode otherwise. Sometimes it would just go soft mid drive. I'd stay clear of off the shelf maps if i did it again and get it properly dyno tuned. Costs roughly the same and means a tuner is purely focused on your car and how it copes with the process.

Good luck with it! I've got a WRX as a fun car now and i really miss that supercharger insta spool at 1,500 RPM!