ecu swap+immo swap read,save+reprogram!?

[Bill Lee]

So the title says...I'm going to replace the ecu and remove the immo OR replace it. There's a glitch that needs advice please.
Van:vw t4 7da aac 1997 2.0lt swb pet immo1
To swap the ecu with same immo will work OK. With vagcom.
To swap ecu with emulator installed and remove immo from ecu may work? Reprogram required?
To replace immo with an emulator AND remove immo information from ecu...?..will work??...and what program do I use to remove it?
To replace immo with another Siemens immo....?....can a direct fit be obtained? Vagcom keys.OK
To use replaced ecu and/or immo/emulator will require programs to do that, what are they?
WILL ANY WORK?
One of these gives a wrong signal to the van and both are getting attention..just what kind of help is available from the info above?

[AALocksmiths]

Using an emulator or getting the immo disabled is illegal in Australia so if that is an issue for you then these options are out. Best thing is to get the replacement ECU adapted to your car so it all works properly.

[Bill Lee]

.....illegal.

What about the other options....how do they become possible?

[Guy_H]

Talk to your local VW specialist or dealer, I'm pretty sure your T4 has "Immobiliser #2" in it (separate box) and if it is, then an engine ECU swap, all that is required to do is "adapt" the new ECU to the system.

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Immobilizer 2 ECU Swapping

[parso_rex]

You could do an immo off or get the emulators for your 'off road use only' vehicle I'll see what I can find out about your model specifically.

To overwrite the immo data you'll need some very fine soldering gear, an eeprom programmer, lots of time and very stready hands (and certainly no alcohol consumption while your doing it) which is not an option for most people

[Bill Lee]

The problem is it won't start. The electrical side of starting is 'getting' burnt parts, EVERYTHING needs replacing. Either the immo or ecu is incorrectly working, either stopping the vehical starting or sending the wrong voltage and frying the new components. We think the Starter motor arc's the system-then things don't work right, a circle of probs if you will. Hard to detect it was.
So these are the last for replacement and.....those are the only options left I know of. Once the immo was adapted to ecu the non-start van began...so something is going on there, my guess was the immo was faulty...it was defenitly an earthing error (from a smashed plastic planetary gear starter motor allowing touching of internal to external) the vans reaction was to reset the dash and set off an unholy noise like a rotating wire brush in a can for 4 secs, I still can't find that noise part.(any ideas).

I just didn't realize that it had restrictions. It is in the left hand side of the dash connected by 2 wires, floating or dash fixed? Whatever it is it will need to go, fried components don't work.

[parso_rex]

I don't know how the immobiliser could cause an electrical fault like that, my guess would be an earthing problem elsewhere.
If you have large current values being drawn through the wrong/higher resistance path they can cause wiring to heat up and this is especially the case during the cranking of the engine. You could check this by measuring the voltage drop across the battery negative and the starter earth connection. Check the positive connection from the battery to the starter too just in case there has been another connection made at some stage - at the starter end.

[Bill Lee]

The idea for immo off or emulator, I thought, would at least be the first thing to do when they have problems, I'D just like to avoid the electrical hazard with these last two so I can start the van TO FIND the reason 'burning' new parts happens; until it stops frying before it starts I'm just not going to get anywhere.
I think the fully connected starter arc's to its earth of the unit, did most damage, who would find that out WITH it fully functionally working. Grazed the outer motor when rotating!
I know this happened when testing plugs, passed electricity through the LOT, sends a white spark straight to the spark plug with the key switched ON position. It can't do that! Broke a lot of things.
I only have the last reason for electrical malfunction, immo ,ecu. Ecu seems easier than I thought. Immo isn't what I expected (its just for the keys right?) Because this whole issue is over what electric devices can do when circuits permit current through damaged ....circuit bits...
Susceptibility.

[AALocksmiths]

Your car should have a separate immo box linked between the key reader and the ECU, all it would be doing is sending a signal to the ECU telling it if the correct key has been used and whether to start or not.

I think the starter motor is powered from the key switch and will turn even without a coded key. It is possible that your fault is here such as a faulty switch.

Have you checked any of the relays? Maybe one of them is sticking causing something to draw current for longer than it is supposed to.

I think for the sake of eliminating the ECU and Immo look on Ebay.de and see if you can get an ECU/ Immo and key set to swap over, this is a lot easier than trying to turn the immo off. I also don't think that it would be any of this.

[Bill Lee]

No 30 relay was exchanged, turned ignition after replacing starter motor from 1st check and I think it then needed the new planetary part to align straight again(so it was touching earth &+), clicking engaged and disengaged each time for 10 times, it then stopped making any noise - obviously it blew up something ....silence.
YES YES I'd like to be able to SWAP the immo/ecu to ensure no errors until I'm sure (it costing $130 each turn of the key for a new hall sender and I like the key security) and whilst getting new parts an ignition was obtained from a wrecker's who still has the immo for that lock...some good news.
So with the van working before it just stopped, finding parts shot yet functioning made me distrustful of any association with found broken ones which is why these are suspects. I give MORE credit to the relays sticking than an immo blinking, anything that conducts giving a large or innacurrate charge will be exchanged. I guess that means reading keys.......!? yeah?
Well anyway my last query is what is in the main light switch module, right hand side, because associated to not starting is on failing to start(now known to be the starter) a loud noise from that area would play out - just like a fast combination lock resetting itself but a spinning wire brush in a plastic cylinder sound, with the dash resetting all instruments.

That's the full event symptoms, any clearer .. Like mud. The immo will probably need programming???

[AALocksmiths]

If you get the ECU, immo box and key ( or at least the chip) I dont think you have to code anything for your car. you can unscrew the key reader off from around the ignition lock so you can use your original key that works the lock and hold the key reader with the new key together. If you can only get an ECU and immo without key I can make one from the immo..

Whats the part number on your ECU?

[Bill Lee]

Oh, I have the key to that immo, I just have to recode my original keys to the immo..?.easy. I have registered vagcom.
The actual reading of an ecu is from which program?
Saving or transferring the information to the other ecu may be needed?
that noise apparently is relays clicking on and off, repeatedly.

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f136/dashboard-loud-warning-sound-101615.html?highlight=

My ecu will get tomorrow.

[AALocksmiths]

You won't need to program your keys to the immo.. Like I said,
connect the new immo and ECU
remove the key reader from around the ignition
Use your original key in the ignition to turn the lock
Use the key from the new immo/ ECU and hold it in the key reader.

No coding required!

[Bill Lee]

Ecu part no 044 906 024
Easy yes.

[AALocksmiths]

Have you plugged it all up and tried what I suggested?