OCTAVIA III Owners discussion thread

[daMama]

Just wondering if the volume of the radio when you start the car can be adjusted using vcds cable?
No matter how low I turn it down, the volume always goes back to the default volume setting (which is louder then I'd like). My Golf did the same....
Hope I'm making sense...

[brad]

The start up volume is adjusted within the menu of the head unit. look in the same place as the bass / treble adjustment. It's under volume / switch-on volume. you can also set up the speed dependant volume, nav announcement volume, etc in the same area.

Or have you already done this?

[daMama]

The start up volume is adjusted within the menu of the head unit. look in the same place as the bass / treble adjustment. It's under volume / switch-on volume. you can also set up the speed dependant volume, nav announcement volume, etc in the same area.

Or have you already done this?

Yep, saw that area, and thought I had adjusted sufficiently Brad, but will have a look again tonight and report back....

[brad]

Yep, saw that area, and thought I had adjusted sufficiently Brad, but will have a look again tonight and report back....

i have the RCD510 and it's set on 6 (if that's of any help).

[GeeMatt]

Yep, saw that area, and thought I had adjusted sufficiently Brad, but will have a look again tonight and report back....

I found the volume too low ! Adjusted as described from the head unit setup menu and haven't changed it since

[daMama]

I found the volume too low ! Adjusted as described from the head unit setup menu and haven't changed it since

Lol. I found level 5 just a touch too loud. I adjusted 2 settings in the volume setup and I think it's now down to the level I like when I get in the car. I invariably turn it up and down, depending on circumstances [emoji4] .

On a different note, brakes. I'm finding them a little too 'soft'. Is it possible to get something adjusted (aside from new pads) so that they are firmer? Apologies for not using correct terminology...

[Reichter]

Changing the brake lines to steel braided ones makes a big difference in pedal feel. Bites earlier, quicker and harder. Regarding adjustment, not really, as the pistons automatically move inwards and outwards with braking and wear. Hence brake fluid needs topping up as the pads and rotors wear down, so the piston has to move closer.

[GTR27]

On a brand new car braided lines won't make a huge difference as the original rubber lines haven't had a chance to perish or degrade.

When you say soft, do you mean braking bite? Or the physical effort to push the pedal?

If its bite, then pads will make a difference. If its feel, there is a chance a brake fluid flush will work. I'd try those before mucking about with braided lines.

[brad]

Lol. I found level 5 just a touch too loud. I adjusted 2 settings in the volume setup and I think it's now down to the level I like when I get in the car. I invariably turn it up and down, depending on circumstances [emoji4] .

On a different note, brakes. I'm finding them a little too 'soft'. Is it possible to get something adjusted (aside from new pads) so that they are firmer? Apologies for not using correct terminology...

Interesting, most people complain that VW/Skoda brakes are too sensitive.

Have you bedded them in?
BASIC INITIAL BRAKE BED-IN - STREET - Disc Brakes Australia

from another page:

There are two very good reasons to bed-in brake pads—three, if you rank not crashing as a top priority:

1) Transferring brake pad material evenly onto your brake rotors to avoid unwanted vibration and brake judder.

2) To drive out resins that are used to bind the brake pad material during manufacturing, but need to be cooked out of the pad through heat transfer in order for the pads to produce proper brake friction.

Bed-In Procedure for Street Pads

Run your brake pads through normal commuting-type driving for at least 200-300 km before using them aggressively.

Perform four repeated light-to-medium stops—from 100kph down to 15kph, to bring the rotors up to temperature.

Perform three light stops in succession. Then, perform eight heavy stops, back-to-back, at a point just short of wheel lock—from 100kph down to about 15kph.
Drive for 10 minutes to cool off your brakes. Avoid braking as much as possible during this time. A 10-minute drive with zero braking is ideal.
Perform three light stops in succession. Then, perform eight heavy stops, back-to-back, at a point just short of wheel lock—from 100kph down to about 15kph
Drive for another 10 minutes of cool-down time without using your brakes, if possible.

I'm not sure I'd do it totally like the above but you should get the idea.


Also, in the back of my mind I recall a VCDS setting that may/may not have an effect on the brake sensitivity. I think it's the Brake Assist sensitivity. There are 3 settings, 00, 01, 02. Most sensitive is 01, mid is 00 & least sensitive is 02 (that might be back-to-front). I'm not sure if this would fix your problem though.

The Skoda "rubber" lines are kevlar reinforced. While they might soften as the vehicle ages on a new car there will be almost no discernible difference in initial pedal feel & perceived "bite" from a braided steel line. The braided steel might give slightly better pedal modulation under heavy braking. As it's a brand new car it isn't a change I'd recommend as this would immediately give the service department a point of blame if your issues are more substantial (faulty master cylinder or servo booster, etc).

edit: It might be something as simple as the brakes need re-bleeding with a power-bleeder. Stranger things have happened ex-factory.

[Reichter]

On a brand new car braided lines won't make a huge difference as the original rubber lines haven't had a chance to perish or degrade.

When you say soft, do you mean braking bite? Or the physical effort to push the pedal?

If its bite, then pads will make a difference. If its feel, there is a chance a brake fluid flush will work. I'd try those before mucking about with braided lines.

Interesting, most people complain that VW/Skoda brakes are too sensitive.

Have you bedded them in?
BASIC INITIAL BRAKE BED-IN - STREET - Disc Brakes Australia

from another page:


I'm not sure I'd do it totally like the above but you should get the idea.


Also, in the back of my mind I recall a VCDS setting that may/may not have an effect on the brake sensitivity. I think it's the Brake Assist sensitivity. There are 3 settings, 00, 01, 02. Most sensitive is 01, mid is 00 & least sensitive is 02 (that might be back-to-front). I'm not sure if this would fix your problem though.

The Skoda "rubber" lines are kevlar reinforced. While they might soften as the vehicle ages on a new car there will be almost no discernible difference in initial pedal feel & perceived "bite" from a braided steel line. The braided steel might give slightly better pedal modulation under heavy braking. As it's a brand new car it isn't a change I'd recommend as this would immediately give the service department a point of blame if your issues are more substantial (faulty master cylinder or servo booster, etc).

edit: It might be something as simple as the brakes need re-bleeding with a power-bleeder. Stranger things have happened ex-factory.

+1 for these two recommendations first.

It has been a while since i bought a new car. Hence my replacement approach.

[tqld]

Manufacturers have to be conservative, because idiots always push boundaries. However, happy to say no ill effects (aside from foggy inside of a single fog light.) Door seals must be good too, because I'm positive it was up over the sills in height.

I wouldnt normally cross water in a car, however 2hrs to drive home, our other car is on loan to the FIL, and wife was stuck at train station for 45 mins in the rain, as well as kids at kindy. Lucky kindy, train station and home were all on the other side of the water, so one crossing only was required (wouldnt risk it with wife/kids in car). A soggy, angry wife is much more fearful than a waterlogged car. At least I can replace the car!

Sorry to backtrack, but I did notice after driving in the water that I also had some fog in one of my fog lights, but it hasn't gone away still, I'm guessing because the seals are tight enough that it won't evaporate or drain by itself. Did you do anything to get the "fog" out of the light?

[GTR27]

Sorry to backtrack, but I did notice after driving in the water that I also had some fog in one of my fog lights, but it hasn't gone away still, I'm guessing because the seals are tight enough that it won't evaporate or drain by itself. Did you do anything to get the "fog" out of the light?

Not yet. Both have substantial condensation in there. I'll take them off this weekend and blow them out with a compressor

[hobbie2k]

I accidentally left the rear cover off my headlight for a few days and it rained. So I used a hair dryer on low for about half an hour. Just be careful not to blow dust in there.

[TheScout]

Hey all, so picked up the new Scout 110 today, very exciting and very happy with the choice.

The only issue so far is that it feels like the front wheels are out of alignment. On a straight level road the wheel is turned to the left far more than I would have thought would be within tolerance. It's going to the dealer as soon as I can get it there next week, but just wondering whether others have had a similar problem?


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[tqld]

Not yet. Both have substantial condensation in there. I'll take them off this weekend and blow them out with a compressor

Hm well I just had a crack at it today, but here's what I found out after a few hours...
1) The manual doesn't have instructions for changing the RS fog lights (but if you don't have an RS then you should be fine)
2) Apparently it's not possible to remove the whole fog light unit in the RS unless you remove the bumper
3) I could only remove the bulb itself and along with some hair drying, it seemed to relieve the fogginess slightly, but after putting it back in for a few hours it starts to get foggy again, likely because I couldn't get all the water droplets out.

Good luck I think I will leave it until my car gets serviced in 5-6 months as I don't see any other easy way for me to clear it.

The only issue so far is that it feels like the front wheels are out of alignment. On a straight level road the wheel is turned to the left far more than I would have thought would be within tolerance. It's going to the dealer as soon as I can get it there next week, but just wondering whether others have had a similar problem?

Congrats! I hardly see any Octavias, let alone Scouts where I live, but I'm sure it looks good! I have an RS and didn't notice anything like what you describe when I got it. Sounds like the alignment between the wheels and the steering wheel might be out a bit? I have no idea