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Octavia Wagon sound deadening

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  • #61
    This thread got me enthused. After doing some research, I came across that same link (sounddeadenershowdown) which all made sense to me. I decided to do it once, and as best as I could.

    So what I wanted was a bit of sound deadener just to control panel vibrations. I bought a Dynamat xtreme bulk pack from ebay. $186. I used it quite sparingly, and I think I bought way too much.
    I didn't want to spend too much on a roller to apply the Dynamat, so I bought a metal caster wheel from Bunnings for a $3.
    For the sound barrier I bought a roll of Sonic Bar Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) from ebay. $215 with freight for 7 square metres. It is heavy stuff, 4kg per square metre. I think it is the right quantity.
    To separate the MLV from the car metal I bought a heap of camping mats from KMart. They are EVA, a type of Closed Cell Foam (CCF) and 5mm thick, and only cost $5 each mat.
    I used double sided tape from Aldi to stick the CCF to the MLV (just to keep the CCF from falling off really). It was heavy duty and supposedly good up to +90 celcius. There are probably some glues out there that would have worked fine, I just got overloaded with the variety at Bunnings, and the double sided tape was easy.
    To stick the MLV to the Car metal I used 3M Dual Lock SJ3550 again from ebay. It is a kind of industrial velcro, and I will just call it that but it is a bit different. It is strong stuff, and is able to support the heavy MLV over a range of temperatures (hopefully). It is a bit pricey, about $13 per metre strip, and the distance it actually covers is halved due to sticking both sides.

    So I removed the trim, then put extra Dynamat where I could see larger bare panels with no factory deadener.
    Then I cut the MLV to size (leaving holes for trim holes etc), stuck the velcro on here and there (I probably used too much) on the MLV, and in the same spot on the car body. Then I cut the CCF to the same shape but cutting extra holes through where the velcro will attach, then sticking the CCF to the MLV using the dual sided tape. Then attach the velcro and it is done. If I need to remove it later to get at wires or the panel it is easy to just separate the velcro and pull it off.
    So far have done the two rear wheel arches and the cargo bay, as well as the wagon rear door. As well as the passenger side front floor (just plain MLV layed under the carpet, didn't think it needed CCF or velcro sticking down). I put wiring through the wagon rear door and through the rubber hose thing, then all the way to the front while I was at it (for a rear view camera install I have planned for later). The trim removal is a real pain. Also the MLV is heavy, so it is hard to hold it up to cut to size (especially for the rear wagon door). The whole thing probably took 3 full days.
    So I still have the 4 doors to go. If I have any MLV left over (I think it will be getting tight) I will do underneath the driver carpet.





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    • #62
      Originally posted by malamute View Post
      This thread got me enthused. After doing some research, I came across that same link (sounddeadenershowdown) which all made sense to me. I decided to do it once, and as best as I could.
      I'm currently doing the same process, doing little bits whenever I can. On my three short work breaks daily, after work, before work (telling the missus Ive been told to come in early so I can spend an hour beforehand doing this )

      Like you im using patches of dynamat everywhere, but much smaller strips and lots and lots, spaced apart like a zebra. On the showdown page he said 25% coverage is enough, Im going for about 35%. I wont use THAT much MLV though as it weighs a ****tonne...

      Dont forget under the rear seats, its super easy to get there and lots of noise coming from the wheels. Super easy to lay it down to.
      www.TheRapidWrench.Melbourne
      The convenient, professional and affordable mobile bicycle mechanic that comes to you!
      My RS build thread

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      • #63


        Some post's of the progress I've made in this post near the bottom!
        www.TheRapidWrench.Melbourne
        The convenient, professional and affordable mobile bicycle mechanic that comes to you!
        My RS build thread

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        • #64
          I put 10 sheets of dynamat in the octy this weekend - some pics i took as I went:









          All in all I did pretty much the whole luggage compartment, rear side panels, rear door and the 4 other doors.

          Looked at taking off the roof lining but halfway through decided not to bother.

          I also put some under the bonnet. Has gotten rid of the tinny sound when closing it

          So thats 10.5kg I gotta lose from my body fat to compensate

          My goodness, its made a helluva difference to road noise and stereo sound though!
          Last edited by gldgti; 29-09-2013, 07:47 PM.
          '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
          '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
          '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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          • #65
            Awesome - everybody is into it - doing the boot is well worth while for sure
            Dunno about you guys but I'm not taking my car anywhere near scales now - just don't want to know
            (I've been lugging a Nissan 350Z gearbox around all week - arggg)
            Last edited by Martin; 30-09-2013, 07:49 AM.
            2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
            APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
            APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
            Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

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            • #66
              doing the doors has helped the door speakers no end. Actually doing them is pretty arduous, however. The only easy access to the outer door skin is via the speaker holes.

              If anyone else is keen (and its a good investment in time if you can be bothered) my tips are:

              > Drill out all your speaker rivets and remove speakers to gain access to the outer door skin via some contortion of your hands and arms
              > Cut 10-15cm squares of dynamat to go through the speaker holes onto the bare parts of the door skin... anything bigger is pretty tricky
              > Apply the dynamat liberally to the inner door skin aswell, as by deadening this part you can decrease resonance in the cavity a lot - and it helps with soundproofing in general
              > expect to take about 2 hours/door, and make sure you buy some new trim clips before you start the job
              > I used self driling phillips drive 20mm sheetmetal screws to re-attach the speakers
              > keep a vacuum cleaner with you while you work for the insides of your doors (also a magnetic pickup is useful) incase the rivet ends fall into your door.

              I've had 3x rivet ends rolling around in my drivers door since I boughtthe car, which I discovered yesterday was due to DEALER SERVICE WORK that happened when the car was nearly new on the drivers door. They removed the speaker rivets (they were totally different from the untouched passenger side) and left the ends inside the door. I couldnt get to them without the mag pickup. Anyway, I also found that they broke the clips on the drivers window control panel ('fixed' with sikaflex) and several of the door trim clips were missing. BUTCHERS!
              '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
              '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
              '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

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              • #67
                how hard is it to remove the trim in the boot?

                i wouldn't mind putting some sound-deadening there.
                MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS
                sigpic

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                • #68
                  Removing the trim in the boot is pretty straight forward, I had no problems with it

                  Certainly putting dynamat on the outside skin is awesome,
                  but most people deal with the door as per the following picture
                  It's a lot quicker/easier (cheating?) and certainly deals with rattles/vibrations

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	dynamat_door_install.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	234.4 KB
ID:	1808169
                  2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
                  APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
                  APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
                  Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Originally posted by Martin View Post
                    Removing the trim in the boot is pretty straight forward, I had no problems with it

                    Certainly putting dynamat on the outside skin is awesome,
                    but most people deal with the door as per the following picture
                    It's a lot quicker/easier (cheating?) and certainly deals with rattles/vibrations

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]5607[/ATTACH]
                    But it doesn't help with resonance (echoes and amplification) with the door cavity nearly as much, as pointed out above.

                    Really the square patches going through the speaker hole is hardly that much extra work once the trim is already off. Just need a little bin or something to sit the speaker on
                    www.TheRapidWrench.Melbourne
                    The convenient, professional and affordable mobile bicycle mechanic that comes to you!
                    My RS build thread

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by dArK5HaD0w View Post
                      how hard is it to remove the trim in the boot?

                      i wouldn't mind putting some sound-deadening there.
                      I fitted a couple of lights to the top trim part in my wagon - fitted it all back together and realised I hadn't plugged them in.
                      Had to take it all apart again to plug, that whole process took 2min from pulling apart to having it back together.

                      Read: Super easy.
                      2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
                      1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
                      1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
                      Not including hers...

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Mysticality View Post
                        I fitted a couple of lights to the top trim part in my wagon - fitted it all back together and realised I hadn't plugged them in.
                        Had to take it all apart again to plug, that whole process took 2min from pulling apart to having it back together.

                        Read: Super easy.
                        sweet.
                        i'll get u to point it out for me this weekend
                        MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS
                        sigpic

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                        • #72
                          Im gonna get onto doing this over the xmas break...

                          Hoping to do the boot floor, sides, rear wheels archs and under the rear seat as a start...

                          Would also love to do the doors and front wheel archs to quiten this thing down massively...

                          Still deciding whether I get the supersheild or dynamat..

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                          • #73
                            Don't waste your time/money doing under the rear seat - it made no difference for me

                            I think the front wheel arches do have sound deadening

                            The floor sound deadening only goes half way up the firewall
                            I'm pretty sure adding it here is going to be beneficial
                            2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
                            APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
                            APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
                            Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels

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                            • #74
                              i've done one half only so far, and added sound deadening felt under the carpet that covers the boot floor (on top of spare wheel) and i can already hear and feel the difference

                              can't wait to do the other side (exhaust side).

                              because i have plenty of felt, i'm going to put some under the rear seat, and some under front footwell, if i can get to it.

                              MY17 Superb 162TSI, Business Grey, Tech+Comfort Pack, APR ECU+TCU Stg 1, SLA, Rieger Splitter + Side Skirts, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Hardrace Swaybar, TPMS
                              sigpic

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                              • #75
                                Go for whatever sound Dresdner is cheapest. It's all the same ****. Just stay away from the 'lightweight' branded dynamat. It's not thick enough. Go through www.sounddeadenershowdown.com again and read up. Use only 20-30% coverage. Tap everywhere you can and whatever is loudest to knock, use deadener in the center of the loudest spot. I did under the rear seats and it's quite noisy there- the aim is to reduce resonance and this will do the trick.

                                Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk
                                www.TheRapidWrench.Melbourne
                                The convenient, professional and affordable mobile bicycle mechanic that comes to you!
                                My RS build thread

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