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Door lock deadlock release T5 2005

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  • #31
    I just use a bit driver.

    Skinny enough to get in there.

    Supercheap sell long T-handle Torx sets, which I needed to buy, to do a similar job on a Mercedes Benz A-Class. Was about $35 for the set.
    '07 Transporter 1.9 TDI
    '01 Beetle 2.0

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    • #32
      Before I commit myself further now the lock is out of the vehicle, I would appreciate some guidance.

      Once I give it the kiss of life, I hope that I should be able to activate the lock before refitting it by plugging it into the door loom. Is that correct?

      When I removed the lock I found that one spring seemed to be out of position. It was butted against the black casing shown by the smaller arrow, not in the lever notch where I repositioned it.

      Click image for larger version

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      It may have bounced out when I disconnected the external handle, but with it positioned where it is, there is significantly extra effort needed to pull the outer handle cord.

      Did I do right or wrong repositioning it?

      Any chance it had anything to do with the locking issue (clutching at straws)?

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      • #33
        No incorrect it should be same as this one in our van .I have a load of other photos showing dismemberment if you need them ?Click image for larger version

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        • #34
          Thanks. Wonder what the slot is/was for?

          I might leave dismemberment until I find a bottle of Bourbon, but it does look very final.

          I'll PM you with my email if you'd prefer not to drop them here.

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          • #35
            This part of how I approached the job , strong glass of bourbon the pick axe ? dare you ask well I had considered using it to jam between the door inner skin and the pillar to force the door open as you may recall this sucker was closed and locked in the deadlock position making access almost impossible .
            Click image for larger version

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            Last edited by Sunny43.5; 10-01-2017, 08:42 PM.

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            • #36
              Not sure what has happened here but if you cant see the photos let me know .
              Last edited by Sunny43.5; 10-01-2017, 09:04 PM.

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              • #37
                Ah ha if no text no photo , sorry there not in order , one important thing when reassembling the electric motor part ensure the parts are engaged correctly . The first time I did it the lock would not work properly so I had to redo it a second time and then it was perfect . There is a locating guide that goes into the green part as it locks and unlocks it move from one slot to the other .
                Click image for larger version

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                Attached Files
                Last edited by Sunny43.5; 10-01-2017, 09:13 PM.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Sunny43.5 View Post
                  This part of how I approached the job , strong glass of bourbon the pick axe ? dare you ask well I had considered using it to jam between the door inner skin and the pillar to force the door open as you may recall this sucker was closed and locked in the deadlock position making access almost impossible .
                  Know the feeling. I dropped one of my plastic door card removal thingees in the latch on the B pillar as soon as I got that door open. The SOB wasn't going to lock on me again.

                  Thank for the pics.

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                  • #39
                    Sunny,

                    I've cracked the lock apart & tried test assembling it before I start messing with it, but I have 2 issues:

                    (1) I can't understand the function of that green plate under the worm drive. When I dropped the case apart, it was operating in the left track, but I see that it has a spring that can toss it into the right arm of the Y. Do you understand what function it performs.

                    (2) I can't slip the two halves back together. The shroud around the pin that sits in the top of the worm & drives the door open indicator doesn't want to slip around the base of worm opening. Did you have that issue & what answer did you come up with.

                    (3) There seems to be a certain amount of carbon around the two breather holes in the motor. I hope that doean't have any meaning.

                    John

                    Click image for larger version

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                    • #40
                      OK, I give up. I got all the electric bits & their case in a ready-to-go-if-they-ever-will status & had a last fiddle to prove the mechanical side of the lock - and suddenly the bloody thing won't unlatch when the yellow disconnector is raised and either of the door pull levers is activated. That's not quite true, it does it one time in 10 & that's not enough for me to trust the damn thing when I reassemble everything.

                      A second hand lock with a 6 months warranty is on the way. I should have done that a week ago.

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                      • #41
                        Thanks for all the advice. The new lock now works, albeit that even working according to the warning, I broke the plastic thingee.

                        Thanks for assuming that I would remember to position the window switch cable when I was fitting the door card. You were wrong, but I managed to fish it out with a hook I made out of light wire, doubled & twisted in a drill for a little stiffness.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Sunny43.5 View Post
                          No incorrect it should be same as this one in our van .I have a load of other photos showing dismemberment if you need them ?[ATTACH=CONFIG]27536[/ATTACH]
                          Hi Sunny, would you be able to send me the other photos showing passenger door lock dismemberment please? I am having a nightmare with my locked door.
                          I tried to pull the bar into the hook also but as you say this is incorrect so I'm struggling.

                          Cheers

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                          • #43
                            I had to revisit my own post this week as the drivers lock on my work van was playing up and sometimes not locking or opening . Again like last time stripped the lock down cleaned and then relubed and all working again . Hard to pinpoint what actually goes wrong other than an observation that they dont have much lube inside the locks , you can hear the motor trying to work but the strain of dry joints seem to stop it working properly . One last thing once the lock is reassembled to check correct functions you do need to put the door catch into the door closed position or it wont work .
                            Last edited by Sunny43.5; 08-08-2018, 08:26 AM.

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                            • #44
                              Hi Sunny, did you ever take a photo of the slot you cut in the door trim to get to the lock mechanism when the door was shut?
                              I am at a loss for options and will be resorting to cutting into the trim to fix it.
                              TDI mk1 on the road!!

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                              • #45
                                Sorry no photos of that part of the job but I do remember a couple of strong bourbons were nearby , from memory I was able to unscrew the screws holding the handle at the top and then sort of pull the top to be pulled up and over the top part where it sits against the glass . I may not have needed to cut the slot mentioned because once you have the trim off you might be able to get someone to operate the lock unlock button while you pull the lock rod up and down and suddenly it may release . While the trim is in place its very hard to grab the lock end but with out the trim in the way , you can get at it better to manipulate the lock rod .

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