Removing T4 engine - best way?

[Racemag]

I have the head off the 2.5 syncro petrol T4 following the loss of the rad cap, coolant and then head gasket!
The thing I need to consider is that the front/rear crank seals are leaking and this seems like a good time to change them. Then If I'm doing this then the clutch as well and then the rings too ... So can I get the block out and leave the gearbox in place?

[Umai Naa!!]

No, pull the box as well.

Strip the front off the car, and remove the whole assembly in one go.

[Racemag]

'fraid of that

[Sunny43.5]

It's not that hard a job , the main thing is to mark any wiring pipes hoses then unbolt the parts from the front radiators etc . Once that's done you can hire an engine lift hoist and you can lift the whole lump out easily . When I did my son's T4 transplant a few years back I got quite quick at it , I could get the whole engine with gearbox back in around 15 minutes . Naturally bolting the stuff back in took a few hours but it's not a hard job to do .

[jets]

No, pull the box as well.

Although I have never needed to do that, from what I have read on the T4 Forum that's the best way.
I would replace the seals around the oil filter/cooler while it's out as well.
Don't forget to repost on how it all goes.

[Racemag]

there goes the holidays!
I have an engine hoist - will start to order all the bits now.
The T4 engines seem to be one of the least well supported engine types I have ever seen. The engine reconditioners could not find parts listing for rings or seals - only VW parts apparently.

[jets]

It might be worth trying Imparts. Several years ago I enquired about parts for the 2.5TDI engine just for academic reasons & they were able to quote for all the parts I asked for.
There is also a well respected company in the UK called A W Engineering that the T4 Forum members keep recommending.

[Umai Naa!!]

Yeah, specialist European parts suppliers and VW are the go. Trying to order things through Repco, etc is a waste of time and money. Even the local cylinder head specialist couldn't help me.

I did a complete head on an AUF 2.5TDI earlier this year. New complete head came from the UK, while gaskets, bolts, seals, etc, came from Tooleys, HSY, and VW. Needed to turn the job over quickly, so waiting extended periods of time for shipments to come in, that may have the stock on board, wasn't an ideal option. I wasn't using Imparts back then, so I can't comment on whether they'd have what you'd need, but nowadays, they're pretty much one of my main suppliers.

[Racemag]

Just too damn hard to get it done ATM - no parts available and the thing is needed, so the rear seal will have to wait and no engine out. Bores looked good - no lip, but very smooth. Will check CR when together. I did the front seal in situ and it was a PTFE seal from VW. Not as easy to fit as the usual rubber seals. Some parts from VW are very hard to cope with - e.g. thermostat was quoted at $92 vs $25 from another supply - it turned out that the thermostat had failed.

[Umai Naa!!]

PTFE seals need an installation sleeve. I've been caught out with these in the past.

[Racemag]

I used some .5mm acrylic plastic sheet, cut and rolled a couple of times and placed into the centre of the seal. Then tapped this over the crank nose and slid seal along it and tapped it into place. There was an obvious groove in the crank nose from the previous seal - so this one was inserted a little less - may/may not work.

[Racemag]

anyone used an skf speedi-sleeve