intermittent idle dip at operating temp and find fault.

[Bill Lee]

.......but what is.
I'm sure everything needs replacing.
This pic is a mould i made from the inside of a spark plug lead, the spark plug connection. I'd reefed the inners out after the tow truck dumped me. Anyway the build is that the very tip, that bump, is where the wire from the insulated lead 'sits'. The next bit down is the insulation crimp and then the tube till the last bump on the side. I won't be buying new ones again and adapting a push in connection to secure that wire. $$$ saved. I thought it was held more than that, crimped in it like the other end...how cheap.

Also I've traced a no current value from the NEW dizzy hall sender. This may be related to the ecu or power as the source of the cause.
Narrows it down______expensively_______.

[supclean]

Yes Sunny I think he's replaced the ecu relay already although he still may have a fault in the wiring somewhere between the relay and ecu

[supclean]

Also Bill are you losing power to the injectors as well?
When you have checked the above again check to see if you have power and grounds at the dizzy and coil and that the dizzy is sending a signal to the ecu and the coil is being switched by the ecu

[Bill Lee]

That sounds easy, what scientific instruments do that. Transmitting message . I don't think I can, I couldn't make a windows app.

But your right on to something about the earthing it. I traced the no spark fault back to the dizzy hall sender or cap, all new, and suspect one of these. Ecu,immo,power. Will use the bypass proceedure info for the immo from this forum, getting new battery and advice about earthing of the vehical, leaves the difficult stuff__ecu__ can get it checked....
Power to the injectors is consideredconsidered, they were looked at and spayed, but I'm still going to go around in circles with if its power or faults, there are just too many variables to adjust willy nilly, so an accurate diagnosis might just be the ticket.....similarly when the direct fault had to be found at the start, most likely area was ignition and work back. Vcds would find some faults right? I mean idle control valve, hall sender ignition transformer are connected/replaced but nothing about them...?in fact all its ever said is the immo/ecu need connecting because it blocks engine/starting. Then nothing.

Circles again.
All I need is which way its going to trend, electrical or computer and I'll just go over the mechanical in the mean time.

Multimeter says readings on whatever I point at, but if they're not right...I just haven't found a post with all of them to concur. its bananas.

[Bill Lee]

OK new battery in and guess what, the old battery on charge for the last 3 days revealed its hidden badness, 13.4 volts. MELTING EVERYTHING!. Something inside wasn't clicking and it obviously varied voltages depending on how full it was ......
I've got to test the elec parts again...and replace them again.....look at all,earths,relays and fuses..etc
....I'm so tired.....

[Sunny43.5]

13.4 is normal don.t worry most cars will handle up to and above 14 volts with no issues , just because it says 12 volts on the battery etc the alternator will pump out a higher voltage as the van when driving with lights air con etc need to be kept up to and above 12volts .

[Bill Lee]

:i

what are you saying.....

[Sunny43.5]

Okay Bill all cars are traditionally designed to run on 12volts but because when you are driving there is a constant drain on the battery as the van needs power to run all the systems , so the alternator is the supply of power to the battery it keeps the battery charged up . The alternator is also designed to supply up to and above 12 volts when the van is running . So 13,5 is a very normal amount of power you will see on a multimeter with the engine running very few batteries will show much higher than 12 volts with the engine switched off its absolutely normal . Hope it helps .

[Bill Lee]

I.....I...I didn't...know..that!
Thankyou anyway, I'll change MY way of thinking immediately. Next time my torch needs battery's...wall plug ON. Haha.
Not much to add, looking at starter motors connections and they're really bad.

Thats it.

[Sunny43.5]

Somebody please help raise funds to send a qualified VW mechanic to help Bill before the poor bugger spends his retirement on trying to fix his van , I suppose Tasmania my be short of talented guys who can help him .

[Bill Lee]

Thanks sunny43.5 (degrees celcius?) but that only happens when I can't do any more. And its not likely with the likes of this.......

Starter motor, works still but why? If that kicks back because its broken, would that effect the electrics?? Food for thought.

You can go.....
I'll stay.
Till the next spooky thing, working, appears broken.

[TFour]

Hi Bill,
Interested to know, what was the final outcome / solution to your original post.

[Bill Lee]

OH, I've been right round the mill and STILL have no running vehical. A basic finalization is that I can't identify the exact cause. This being that it looked more like the starter plastic planetary gear being busted caused the inner motor to graze the complete starter as an earth, to short stuff out. I've replaced everything (more or less) and have made progress, but this all gets held up with the many things that were replaced but before I found the planetary grazing, so double checking is all thats left. This then leads to strange things like the ignition and ignition switch not meeting up at that pin Lego connection ?!?!? and finding that the vehical could've started long ago, its now by a screw driver. But the original problem has returned (hall senders gone making it 4-5 burned out) completing a full circle, so I guess when I can afford another it will start. Just weird stuff, not like a normal parts service and I put it down to bad upkeep of srevicing and some tricky things like working parts that are stuffed, but keep working.
But I can't emphasize how important it is to triple check .
The idle dip....was slightly straightened up when it started again, then died again, with some of the normal services and known tests lead to finding its problem. Its concept of dipping for me was not like the ecu developing a new fuel formulas from the fault in an air intake temp sender but from combined things making some adjustment to the output of the ecu's job AND a crack in the rotor allowing it to flap whilst spinning, a spark plug lead that isn't set right connectively and a dirty air filter box not operating properly ALL giving the ecu a bad reading to work off of.
Not usual ...!
There was also a thing with the immo being indecisive but I couldn't get by the immo off legally so a replacement got the nod instead.
I guess a 100 point check is the easiest explanation.
.....oh boy!.