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intermittent idle dip at operating temp and find fault.

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  • #16
    Fill in the blanks day!!

    What by chance is the dizzy to look like WITH connected leads.
    A. line the rotor to the line on lip, and that points directly at 1 cyl lead. Or the next quarter turn along is the first lead.
    B. Configuration is 1342 clockwise...from which quarter turn is it?

    The answer to that will help.

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    • #17
      First thing to do is set your cam & fly wheel marks to tdc There will be a engraved marking somewhere on the top or side of the distributor
      This will be your no 1 marking Slide your dizzy in & line your rotor with this mark Your no 1 lead starts on this mark the rest go in the same way your dizzy rotates when running

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      • #18
        OK.

        The reason I asked that is when I took it apart that tdc mark aligned the first lead with the very next plug available, as different to your advice and is twice right. At tdc!!!. So I've got to double check putting it back together because it doesn't make sense.
        If there is any difference, the cogs will hold that riddle....somehow.

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        • #19
          Bill Check your cam timing This will put your no 1 rotor position out

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          • #20
            Touché.

            Just got another belt today....as you can see, it needs a new one.
            Click image for larger version

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            They say with one that breaks, it can blow up the engine.COSTS $$$.
            Also.....
            Got it started...but...I didn't change a thing. Each day (x3) I'd try once with tests. Gradually the fuel reached the spark. Today I was looking for tdc lines and couldn't find any others.
            Click image for larger version

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            See any on the adjuster at tdc?

            Anyway I need to raise the idle as its too low, any quick suggestions?
            And those two pipes from the air intake/filter need conformation if someone can feel back from the side of the throttle to tell me if that's the top or bottom nib.....
            PPPPLLLLEEEAAASSSEEEEEE!!!!!

            After that its sit with vagcom for a long time. Thanks for contributing......both of you! (I was going to say everyone, it seems a bit light on).
            Last edited by Bill Lee; 14-10-2014, 07:00 PM. Reason: I talk rubbish, cleaning it up for two viewers.

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            • #21
              Just to add about page 1 and the dizzy hole center flat thing is the oil pump drive shaft tongue which is positioned in line with the crankshaft before dizzy insertion.

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              • #22
                Not sure where your up to Bill It would be a good idea when your sorted with your cam timing to do your ignition timing as well

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                • #23
                  Well, that's not soon, $300 for a idle control valve. It runs lumpy on or off so I might be wrong again and I really have a lot of reading to do. I don't think I can do ignition timing anyway..speshy tools.
                  ELECTRICAL components are suspected broken at this time...even the battery.
                  Why are the two vacume pipes too hard to find? Which ones the throttle connection.
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                  Black or white?

                  Fresh filtered air or warm unfiltered air to the throttle body, continually sucking.
                  The other loops back to the lower unfiltered pan.
                  One lower one open and closes the warm valve??
                  Any ideas.

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                  • #24
                    Not sure Bill Good idea to check that all your basics are correct before you move onto anything else
                    Check your cam timing,
                    Then with the engine at tdc check that your rotor points to no 1,
                    Check that all your leads are in the correct firing order
                    Then do your ignition timing
                    You should be able to pick up a timing light fairly cheap from eBay
                    Good luck

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                    • #25
                      Went to town today, got a filter and oil, looked for idle valve and battery. Oil is a recommended penrite $50, filter $30, battery $210 ,idle 300.
                      Adapted ecu to immo & clear code when this..00532 supply voltage b+ 0700 signal too low.
                      Means connections to/from ecu need checking OR battery on its way out.
                      De ja vu or what!
                      Just imaging me buying parts everyday....that's where I am.

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                      • #26
                        The vacuum hose that you mentioned I think the upper black one goes to the throttle body The lower white one goes to the heat valve
                        The codes you are getting are probably caused by a low battery or you may have interrupted the power supply somewhere

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                        • #27
                          Thanks, will see next wed went van works again. Its stopped again after adapting immo/ecu,dropping oil, NEW filter,fixed idle valve, NEW battery as existing one is wrong sort.

                          Should get result then.

                          No this afternoon I got it going down the road again, and I've returned on the back of a tow truck. Although the experience is a downer the spark plugs were looked at and they were BLACK. NO SPARK AGAIN.
                          So.........?.will it ever end.
                          Last edited by Bill Lee; 17-10-2014, 09:39 PM. Reason: more and more and more PROBLEMS.

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                          • #28
                            Back to basics need to determine if you are losing fuel or spark then trouble shoot from here
                            You'll need to verify first but with black plugs my guess the problem will be on ignition side

                            Black plugs sounds like an over fuelling issue with possible faults
                            Fuel pressure regulator
                            Blocked exhaust
                            Map sensor in the ecu. When you changed the ecu vacuum did it have any oil contamination inside?

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                            • #29
                              Tried all of it before replacing transformer and hall sender, leads transmit,on/run ignition gives current, dizzy set ...no spark...it just died in idle and won't spark!?, battery gave good current for attempts...just shuts everything off like the earth lead was taken away.

                              Map sensor.
                              I'm no expert and I don't know what the previous owner had happen but it looked clean all over, only soft areas in vacume hoses. Whether it has anything to do with making the things function the way they're doing, apart from the obvious working compensation whilst tuning, which IS amazing, there isn't much idication what it actually causes in malfunction/error if it CAN and noticeably correctly. (also engine 'hops' whilst changing) Of course it is on my list. Map sensor makes me cringe.program etc. etc.
                              The fuel TANK/components and exhaust are up next.
                              Waiting on new battery soooooon. Hopefully this might shed light on electrical management which could be entirely a broken battery voltage related. This is another thread I started. Constant unchanging current mean anything??????brings reason from the ecu??????


                              But you know no matter what I test or pick up they all have the described result or show no error in vcdsLITE and give a multimeter reading and don't look mechanically dead....
                              Last edited by Bill Lee; 18-10-2014, 09:57 PM. Reason: spell

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                              • #30
                                I know this may not be the answer but could Bill have the old relay problem ?? that used to plague T4,s I know mine would give some similar problems but not all that he has described .

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