t4 auxiliary belt tensioner bolt

[touch107fm]

Hi Guys

I noticed my T4 1997 2.5LTR LWD was starting to squeak on start up. Knew it was coming from t4 auxiliary belt tensioner. Sprayed some WD40 and squeak went away.

OK so I got another tensioner pulley, I have replaced a few of these but a mechanic did the last one on mine and didn't replace the bolt for the tensioner, I went to change it this morning the Bolt is rounded so I have no way of releasing the belt.

Q: I am tempted to just cut the bolt head off bit I would like to release the belt first, Any suggestions ideas on either another way of getting the bolt out or another way to release the belt so I wont have any tension on the pulley.

Also anyone know what size bolt is used for the pulley.

Cheers,
D

[Sunny43.5]

As that bolt is easily got at I would grab ther bugger with a good pair of Vise Grips , if you cut it off then you will probably need to remove the whole thing to replace it .

[Umai Naa!!]

Those tensioner arms are known for seizing up, and not working against the spring at the back. The spring minimises the oscillations in the belt, and also prevents over-tightening, which is why your pulley bearing is stuffed.

As above, vise-grips will probably get it off. It's a pretty common metric bolt, so a replacement should be easy to source.

[jets]

Q: I am tempted to just cut the bolt head off bit I would like to release the belt first, Any suggestions ideas on either another way of getting the bolt out or another way to release the belt so I wont have any tension on the pulley.

You should be able to release the tension & remove the belt using a large adjustable wrench on the arm that supports the pulley.
However you may find that after removing the belt that the tensioner arm, once the spanner is removed, will move into a position that makes it harder to get to the bolt.

[touch107fm]

Is it possible to loosen the hex bolt with belt on??

[jets]

I would say yes, however it would be harder to undo with the side load. Try releasing tension with the spanner, hold in this position while trying to undo the screw.

[Ades]

I just replaced my belt and the damn thing is still squealing, it looks like the tensioner is not playing the game and won't really move freely. Bugger is going to cost me $238 from the dealer, couldn't find a part number from a quick look to try and save some money and shop around.

[Seano]

Vagcat is your friend.

[jets]

it looks like the tensioner is not playing the game and won't really move freely.

Is the tensioner arm stiff or the pulley bearing? If the former, it may need to be removed, cleaned & lubricated. As Umai Naa has said a common problem. It may not need to be replaced. It's a big job to remove with the engine mount needing to be disconnected to allow the engine to be moved down & forward from what I understand.

[Sunny43.5]

Silly question has any part been removed from that area ? my sons T4 before I sold it had a squeak as I had to replace an air con bearing and I forgot to fit the correct spacer/washers in the various points leading to the belt not running true over the pulley , after refitting the air con it was perfect .

[Ades]

Just changed the tensioner and it was a lengthy job for something so simple, the book calls to drop the engine to remove it, I removed the pan, the alternator then fan-belt and pulley. The rod seems to bind up in the shaft through to the tensioner, remove the tensioner (three Allen bolts) then gently drive out the tensioner shaft, clean it up, lube it and refit. just make sure the shaft is facing the right way and not the wrong way like did initially. Prior to all this the shaft was really stiff to move and the tensioner had stuff all tension in it.
Now it has tensioned right up and will take up the tension as the belt stretches.
Refit sll the bits and run the engine to make sure that you missed nothing, no more squealing for me, but I will be spraying that tensnioer with a bit of WD40 from time to time.

[Abyss]

Drop the engine what a heap of rubbish, the tensioner spring is held on with two bolts and a third in the end to hold the tensioner arm in.
A good modification of the bracket is to drill and put a grease nipple on so you can continually lube the arm to stop it seizing. It had seized on one of my recent purchases from NT due to the dustcap on the arm not being fitted, like in your picture, it has no dustcap, a bit of heat shrink will also work.

[LogicprObe]

Yeah........mine was seized up in my T4.
The mechanic charged a couple of extra hours to get it out!

[Philip Diemar]

My T4 has the tensioner in this position, above the aircon. The belt was originally routed as in the first pic. That means the tensioner is permanently hard against the loosen direction. So doing nothing. After discovering this I Routed a new shorter belt from the drive then under the tensioner up to the alternator and around. A 1460 looks OK now but as it wears in it could touch the tensioner rod, I will watch it, and may have to eventually go a little shorter . I am no expert, but at least this way the tensioner is doing its job. To fit a belt this way you have to loosen the tensioner rod cap screw about 4 turns, tap it in to give you clearance between tensioner pulley and timing belt cover, fit belt, and retighten.