T4 2.5 cam belt - advice

[Racemag]

I need to replace a cam belt and a water pump. Has anyone done this or see advice online as to the steps to follow?

[Sunny43.5]

I replaced my sons T4 2.5 belt and water pump & tensioner and I am not a mechanic . The motor was out of the van at the time as I had done a transplant conversion from a 2.4 diesel to the 2.5 petrol . I was going to get a VW mechanic to do the job but due to time constraints I did it myself . the main thing is to make sure the engine cannot get out of timing as the belt goes around several components I marked all critical positions so that way when the new belt was fitted it went back exactly in the same place . The water pump is ano brainer but the tensioner should require a special tool to set the adjustment . Now again I did not have that tool so again used my best judgment to get the setting correct , too loose and there would be a chance of the belt jumping a tooth and causing engine damage {pistons meeting valves is not desired } . Too tight and it could cause early wear ., nearly two years later the sons is still perfect there are some manuals you can buy online which will help . Here is alink to an Ebay seller who has the details on disc there are others in book form as well http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/VW-VOLKSW...#ht_4061wt_952

[Racemag]

thanks, but blast - I've already ordered a manual online for more from an Aussie ebayer.
oh well.
Things are already out of alignment - the waterpump has failed and the van is not running. The 2.5 is a non-interference engine IIRC? I was hoping to do the cam belt change in situ, but I'm glad you were able to get it done.

[Sunny43.5]

I am sure the belt can be done in situ as most mechanics do it that way , as I said you need to lock the motor some how to stop the cam or the crank turning out of position .

[Racemag]

It looks like the belt jumped off the pump and the AET is an interference engine...so may be a head off job....not that much room in there.

[jets]

When I started reading this thread I thought it was the TDI 2.5 but I am not familiar with what an AET is.
I don't know of any links to a belt change on that engine.Perhaps you could try Google. As far as room goes, if you need to remove the head it can be done in the engine bay. Are you aware that the grill all moves forward with the radiator to give you better access?

[Racemag]

I am now, thanks for that.

[Jmac]

Hate to say the only free spinner is the AAC 2.0 litre, if it has gone south on the 2.5 youl will be taking the head off mate. Hope it hasnt gone that wrong
Cheers
Jmac

[Racemag]

Hate to say the only free spinner is the AAC 2.0 litre, if it has gone south on the 2.5 youl will be taking the head off mate. Hope it hasnt gone that wrong
Cheers
Jmac

Probably has...not that much of an issue really, but prob cheaper to get a wrecker head than new valves.
Are the seats hard enough for lpg and the guides bronze or iron?

[David Morris]

Just finishing off on a full 120K service on my Ex ambo 2003 T4 2.5tdi transporter auto been 3 days of hard yacker lots of missing bits of skin & a few wounds ,spilled blood for the second time around as T got the van with 30K on it but a resusunit si it got lots of lights & sirens responce in it home base in Orange NSW in its 3 year lease .
Its a great drive but has been a challange new torque convertor when the auto started to shudder $1600 as I out sorced that job & got a air to oil cooler fitted at the same time that removes 15 c from the oil on the way through but the oil still needs changing every 15k Klm as its burned thats not a bad job with a new filter each time about $100 by the time you get the oil & DIY .
I got 2 books on Ebay that are suposed to cover the 03 T4 model 2.5 TDI but they are a waste of money compared to the computer disc stuff I had before till I lost the programes in a computer crash they covered everything in detail I will reactivate them later as I still have the discs only need a new KEY .
I pushed the disc bake pads back after sucking the fluid out of the resivour so it didnt over flow changed the fluid as it was crappy refilled & slowly stroked the pad back out till I got a full pedal again that triggered a fault light till it was driven a round the block & I pushed the rubber button on the top of the plastic resivour now all good again .
Working on geting trans temp display as even with the new cooler there is still lots of heat to get rid of the original water cooled one was not good at its job I am working on finding an bigger one than I have now I sold my caravan so thats not a problem any more .
Cleaning out the inlet manifold with all the soot build up from the EGR system is s crappy job washed out the intercooler to while it was off , got the buggs out from between the aircon condensor & radiator with the airgun & a vacuum cleaner will pay off for the long hot summer months I will top up the double air con system fitted to these machines later when I get time .
Looking foraward to the next 100K service like a hole in the head I got to thank Dave at Euro Car Parts for his service if you got the VIN # he will send you the rite parts

[Cousin]

........,,,,,,,,, There's a couple of freebies for you David
Is the oil cooler for your auto or the engine?



M

[David Morris]

Thanks Cousin it is for the tranny as they have a limited amount of fluid & the original was watercooled device so it was always gunna be at round engine temp so I stuck mine out front on the bullbar gets first use of cooling air & filters larger flying bugs through the staino mesh I have clipped on it from the aircon condensor & finaly the radiator cores.
so far its worked well looking at puting a digital thermo in the line just for the hell of it as it still burns the trany fluid after about 10K Klm so it gets changed as soon as it stinks .
I also made an extended filler tube that extends up near the battery where I can add or subtract fluid with my hand suction pump to have a look at its condition, the system now holds an extra 500cc & thats all good .
TC

[Racemag]

Well I finally had the chance to have a look at the cambelt, which is still in place and in one piece...good. The thing is it will not explain why the engine stopped when the water pump failed, unless it jumped a tooth or two. Will need to do a compression check I guess.

[smithy]

Hi Racemag,
Pop the cam cover off and make sure the camshaft itself isn't broken.....I recall I had seen this issue on another forum somewhere..!

Cheers,
Smithy.

[Sunny43.5]

Hi Racemag is yours a petrol or diesel aplogies if I missed it somwhere . Let us know as I have a whole 2.5 petrol engine and gearbox complete sitting at the side of my drive way if you are stuck for some parts let me know .