2000 T4 Transorter Steering Rack Change?

[curnow]

G'Day Gang,

Has anyone had experience at changing out the steering rack on a 2000 Model T4 TDI transporter.
I have it jacked up and wheels off and looking at it I think the tie rod knuckles should screw out of the rack arm. Anyone know the size of the nut on this? It is bigger than 32mm so I will have to buy the correct size spanner.
Any tricks and tips most welcome.

Cheers
Dennis

[Sunny43.5]

Hi I recently changed the rack end joints on a T4 for Road Worthy Certificate now as much as I can remember the main problem is getting the correct size spanner , believe it or not I tried to buy the correct spanner at 3 different auto parts stores and no luck I ended up buying two items one was a pair of vise grips with a chain lock system and a pair of stillsons [pipe spanner]twenty bucks each . remove front wheel each side and turn the sterring to the side you want to remove first . Next remove rubber cover on inner end covering the nut . I wrapped the chain lock around the extreme outer end of the steering rack itself and locked it then used the stillson to loosen the nut . It was very easy because as soon as the nut came loose I was able to unscrew the rest by hand , I do remember that I used a small block of wood to keep the vise grips on a level surface was no big deal after that remove the steering end joint and that was it . Now according to the VW manual I had and still have you are supposed to remove the steering rack with the rack ends still attached !! apparently if you try to loosen the nuts without holding the steering rack solidly you can damage the whole thing . As I said as long as you can grip the extreme outer end of the shaft and keep it from turning you will be fine but if you are changing the actual rack then leave the rack ends attached . Someone else may have another way but this is how I changed the rack ends it may help . Howard

[curnow]

Thanks for the prompt reply Howard. I will get the chain vice grips tomorrow and have a crack at it.

Cheers
Dennis

[jets]

Anyone know the size of the nut on this?

If you have a vernier caliper, measure it. If you cannot buy the correct size but 1mm smaller, grind the inside flanks until it fits.

[curnow]

Is it possible?

Thanks Guys,

I could not find any appropriate tools to get the track rods off so decided to take the rack out complete. I have everything disconnected but cannot jiggle the thing out. Is it actually possible to get the rack out without dropping the whole sub-frame? I have not disconnected the exhaust. This may allow enough travel but not sure. The clips holding the exhaust flange looks like it needs a special tool to get it off and back on.
Any clues?

Cheers
Dennis

[Sunny43.5]

Hi again curnow , I have the manual in front of me at the moment and it says you should remove the front exhaust pipe and yes those clips are easy to remove but an absolute b&&^%d to refit unless you have the correct tool. When I did the van we had I just levered them off , when refitting I mucked around with different tools to lever one back which was the easiest to get at the second one took some real thinking . I eventually used a motor bike tie down strap which had a metal hook on one end this was looped over the bottom end of the clip, the top end was hooked into place then I wrapped the other end of the strap around the gear box mount or some other part and then used a lever to pull the strap down this eventually opened it up enough for me to get it into position .
The manual also says to remove the sound insulation panels as well for removal of steering rack . As you have disconected the pipes it advises to plug the ends to prevent dirt from getting in with chewing gum !!! Hope this helps Howard PS the book also says to loosen the torsion bars I remebered that I had done this as well but I cant remember why ??? sorry thats what the book says .

[curnow]

Thanks Howard,
I will have another crack at it tomorrow.

[curnow]

G'Day Howard,
Can you remember which side the rack came out and did you have the tie rods still on the rack?
I have the sway bar completely out but for the sake of 5mm clearance the rack will not come out.

Cheers
Dennis

[Sunny43.5]

Hi Curnow I never removed the rack as I said I only replaced the rack ends without removing the whole thing . I have had another look at the manual and what it says is remove noise pads /remove front part exhaust pipe completly / remove both front wheeels and it says IF 4 cylinder motor fitted loosen banjo bolt which connects hydraulic hose to steering pump [you may have done this already] remove steering track rod ball joints using suitable puller /release torsion bars both sides /unscrew stabiliser bar mounting clamps from sub frame / then remove bolts holding steering rack to frame / next is important it says Quote "push the stabiliser bar towards the top , push the steering slightly towards the left until the steering pinion disengages from the universal joint and then guide the steering towards the rear until it can be removed " end quote .
I just remembered some thing that might help , we had another T4 that I bought for some parts last year the van came on a tilt tray as someone had removed the steering rack before we got the van now I remember that whoever had removed the rack had actually loosened the subframe bolts probably to get the last 5 ml clearance [they were still loose]. The only thing I would add here is these manuals are notoriously famous for giving the wrong procedures . When we recently change over my sons old 2.4 T4 diesel to a 2.5 petrol engine the manual said after removing all connections and other stuff to remove the engine place a trolley jack under the engine and lower it out YEH right , after about 4 hours work skinned knuckles and lots of profanities spoken in anger not a chance in hell of getting it out I resorted to plan "B" just remove the front section of body with radiators and headlights etc and then the mongrel came out piece of cake . So much for the book in that case !!! Howard

[rob64981]

Curnow,
Have you had a look on VW T4 Forum - VW T5 Forum or The Brick-yard
And asked if the task is possible?
There are lots of knowledgeable people on both forums.

Hope you get it fixed soon Rob

[curnow]

G'Day Gang,

Jobs done
Requirements are: sway bar has to be free to move about, exhaust pipe has to be removed. The rack will then move over to the right hand side far enough for the left end of the rack to sneak out over the cross member and the rack will then slide out the back.(Thanks for that tip Howard) The rack will come out with both track rods attached. The only other requirement is there must be the appropriate amount of cursing and threatening to strangle the engineer that designed this thing.

Cheers and thanks for all the help guys

[Sunny43.5]

Good job Curnow glad you have had a win yes you sometime wonder what the designers were thinking when the put them together Howard .

[jets]

Thanks Curnow for reposting your success & telling the rest of us on how you did it. What is the mileage on your T4 & why did you have to change the steering rack?

[curnow]

It has done about 290k and I made the mistake of topping up with normal red type power steering fluid. After that the seals started leaking and became so bad it would drain the reservoir in a day I haven't looked into it yet to see if there are parts available to repair the old rack as there is only the seals need replacing.

Anyone know if there are bits available?

Cheers
Dennis

[jets]

That is quite a significant failure of the seals. You may now know that the green top of the reservoir signifies the change to the current type of fluid. I don't know what the previous colour was because my vehicles are 2001 & later. Hopefully your experience will prevent owners here not to make the same mistake. Re. replacement seals, I would try one of the companies that rebuild steering racks.