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  • #16
    Had a go at welding up a cracked exhaust manifold today,got it from my local vw mechanic was off an 06 that they replaced at 110k was full of cracks, one flange was cracked half way around the turbo flange at the flex joint had a cracked 80% around right through the center of the weld and two that had started beside some welds.
    It welded very nicely using the tig and 316 filler rod, got to hot when welding the turbo flange and melted a hole in the very thin flex joint steel so now it definatly is rubbish.
    My local mech is saying spend the money get a new one, $1100 got a quote today from VW, I would much rather keep that money and try a welded one unless the new one has been improved to go alot longer than the 45k I got out of mine.
    Last edited by augie; 19-07-2011, 05:42 PM.

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    • #17
      Sorry to hear that it work well augie, at least you've tried. Maybe get a second one (cracked) and weld it slowly. Mine is still good at almost 90,000km.
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      • #18
        the one I welded was not off my van, I'm going to take mine off tomorrow, I hope to find mine in better condition than the one I worked with today.

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        • #19
          Take some pictures in the process and post it in here, please.
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          • #20
            Still yet to remove my manifold due to constant rain wishing I still had my beautiful shed here are some pix of the other one I welded up






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            • #21
              How to remove VW Transporter t5 exhaust manifold
              Manifold off and welded. Quick rundown of what it takes to remove and its not as hard as i was told it would be.
              1.Pipe from turbo to intercooler remove spring clips with screw driver be sure to plug all holes with rags as you go
              2.Air box unclip top half, one bolt in 2nd half plus 2 stuipd plastic push in mounts carefull not to break them I got it out with one still intact.
              3.Metal pipe from exhaust manifold to inlet.
              4. Exhaust from turbo 5mm allen key to undo the clamp and a screw driver to get it off. get the van on some jack stands or ramps undo first slip joint clamp remove section of exhaust.
              5.Four bolts holding turbo to the exhaust manifold, I got 3 of the 4 bolts undone with a t50 torx bit, but had to borrow the right size bit from my local vw mech after trying ten different shops to buy the right size bit am replacing these bolts with allen heads.
              6.This is the worst part get under the car and look up under the turbo there are three t55 torx head bolts that need to come out, it did suck but I got them out.
              7.One 16mm bolt hidden under the exhaust manifold holds the tubo to the motor, reach over the top of the motor on the exhaust side of the turbo with your digital camera and take a photo thats how I found it.
              8.Undo all the 12mm nuts on the manifold dont drop any I wasted alot of time fishing around for nuts and the spacers that go with them.

              Thats it, with all that done I could take my cracked exhaust manifold off and weld it up.
              Some pix. Behind motor

              16mm bolt under manifold


              the crack almost made it the whole way round look close you can see the start and finish of the crack
              Last edited by augie; 28-07-2011, 08:49 PM.

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              • #22
                I found that it didnt want to sit flat

                So I put a cut through this which let it sit flat

                Tack it down to something flat and stong

                Grind it out

                and weld


                $1100 saved not sure how it will last but it is worth a go

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                • #23
                  Nice work there. Would you like me to move the above (your) posts in T5 How to do this and that thread?

                  I'm thinking about that distortion and the manifold cracking in the T5s. How about to make a gasket from 1mm – 1.5mm soft copper sheet? It should seal well and maybe prevent the cracking.
                  Last edited by Transporter; 26-07-2011, 11:45 PM.
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                  • #24
                    Augie,

                    Could you supply your address so we can all send our to you when they crack?

                    Good work and its good to see people having a go them selves.

                    Rob

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                    • #25
                      I am going to engage a fitter and turner to weld up mine.

                      I'll take it off and get it done up. Have a new gasket and brass nuts waiting to go.

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                      • #26
                        Yea transporter move them if thats a better place for it. Im hoping the cut through the small steel bar should relive the stress on that cracked exhaust flange I just hope it hasnt moved the stress point some where else. copper gasket could help but I wouldnt go that thick cause it could put load on the flex joint. I'll keep an eye on this and let you know how it goes.
                        Hey rob any tig welder should have no problem welding one up or a mig with stainless wire or even a stick welder will get the job done, as for having a go that's just me not wanting to part with my hard earned I'm pretty handy one the tools but I'm a fabricator definatly not a mechanic
                        Last edited by augie; 22-08-2011, 08:36 PM.

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                        • #27
                          Nice work.

                          Looks like I might be tackling one of these for a bloke in a couple of weeks.

                          What filler rod did you use? Looks like it might have been HT/dissimilar metals type rod, like a 607 or something?

                          APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                          Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                          Email: chris@tprengineering.com

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                          • #28
                            Seems that there is quite a bit of space to get to everything which is a plus!

                            Originally posted by Preen59 View Post
                            Looks like I might be tackling one of these for a bloke in a couple of weeks.
                            I think that guy wants his cat removed, and possibly a mufflerectomy at the same time.

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                            • #29
                              Good luck Mikinoz.
                              The first rubbish one I had a go at I used 316 2.4mm filler wire welded up nice but this was to thick, so I got a little bit of .6 and .9 stainless mig wire from a stainless fab shop not sure what grade but it was all they had so it would do.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by mikinoz View Post
                                Seems that there is quite a bit of space to get to everything which is a plus!



                                I think that guy wants his cat removed, and possibly a mufflerectomy at the same time.
                                Hahaaa we're going all-out are we?

                                Originally posted by augie View Post
                                Good luck Mikinoz.
                                The first rubbish one I had a go at I used 316 2.4mm filler wire welded up nice but this was to thick, so I got a little bit of .6 and .9 stainless mig wire from a stainless fab shop not sure what grade but it was all they had so it would do.
                                Cool. I thought as much. I usually use 1.6mm filler for most of the stuff I do (not that i've been on the end of a TIG for a while, unfortunately). Thanks for the info, mate. Appreciated.

                                APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
                                Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
                                Email: chris@tprengineering.com

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