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I'd seen this thread before about brakes and thought I had responded. At my 75K service my dealer said my brakes needed doing. I left it for a while and then the light and buzzer came on.~80k. The dealer wanted more bucks than I could afford so I got a quote off my mech, which was about half. BUT, he said the discs and pads are both sacrificial and to wait till I hear metal to metal. I got used to the light and buzzer and waited, and waited, till I heard the metal to metal at 155k. We changed the front discs and pads and rear pads and machined the rear discs. I tow a boat and am light on brakes preferring to drive steady, looking ahead etc and using the gears to slow down. I reckon the transporters are very good on brakes. I just wish they could tow more than 3t!
Neil G
Not the best think to do. Brake pads have specified minimum thickness and wearing the brake pads below that could be danger, because you could overheat the brakes (especially when towing), boil the brake fluid, loosing the brakes completely and cause the accident. You can go a bit longer when the warning on the dash comes up, but not to the metal.
As far as I can find out - just lots more poke - and the ability to save a bit on fuel if you are light on the go pedal.
I used to have a Diesel Power box fitted until itgave up the ghost about two years ago. I have missed the additional power it gave. It allowed me to drive in a gear lower than normal if I wanted.
The cost of the Oettinger ECU upgrade has been quoted at $1950 or there abouts. Not cheap ...
Evidently there is a 24 hour or 7 days return policy, so you can buy and return if you are not happy.
As soon as I have some spare funds I would like to give this a try.
I'll let you know when I do ...
Cheers,
Golf V TDI 2005 - SOLD
Volvo C30 D5 - I've got a hat as well!
Multivan Highline T5 TDI 4Motion 2005
Hond Civic VTI 2001
Since I replaced front VW brake pads with the BENDIX GCT pads after I've done 13,000km they still have at least 10mm friction material remaining. I'm very happy with that. What is even better - no black dust on the wheels. As I mention earlier Bendix now makes exact fit front pads DB1947 (more info in sticky "Maintenance and care")
I hope that Bendix will have the rear pads available next time when I need to change them.
Hi Transporter, I am looking at replacing my front discs on my Multivan. The DBA website does not show any product for multivan, are they the same as a transporter?
What is the advantage of slotted discs?
Are you still happy with your DBA disks and Bendix pads ?
Cheers Tim
I've used RDA discs and am not happy with them because they distorted within less than 20,000km. The Bendix pads are good I've used GCT at the front and they don't wear out that fast as the VW pads. Maybe the DBA discs are better quality than the RDA.
There is a good chance that the discs for the Multivan are the same. The measurments are in the sticky thread, so it should be easy to check, and compare to what you have on yours.
These guys are really helpful here in Brisbane they are also Forum Sponsers GSL Rallysport . email here mailto:[mailto:nathan.sekulla@gslrallysport.com]
I had my rear brakes replaced at 75K service when the brake warning light came on... Now it's just had it's 150K service (at 157K) and was told the front brakes need replacing. No warning lights as yet but 159K on the clock I'm sure it won't be too far away...
Just a side note... The local mechanic quoted $780 for oem parts and $850 for genuine... Thought for ships and giggles I'd ring vw and got quoted $650 for new pads and rotors... (Just the front)
Is it worth replacing discs and pads yourself... I'm wondering if I use DBA rotors and pads (undecided as what to use) if I'll get similar life out of them...
I had my rear brakes replaced at 75K service when the brake warning light came on... Now it's just had it's 150K service (at 157K) and was told the front brakes need replacing. No warning lights as yet but 159K on the clock I'm sure it won't be too far away...
Just a side note... The local mechanic quoted $780 for oem parts and $850 for genuine... Thought for ships and giggles I'd ring vw and got quoted $650 for new pads and rotors... (Just the front)
Is it worth replacing discs and pads yourself... I'm wondering if I use DBA rotors and pads (undecided as what to use) if I'll get similar life out of them...
I'm using DBA slotted discs on mine with Bendix brake pads and they last much longer than the genuine.
Textar pads and rotors all round on mine, carrying a tonne of gear in the back.
I've not touched them in the last 100,000kms I've had it. They looked like they've been on it for a while before I bought it, and look like they'll be on there for another while yet. Apart from dust and a bit of noise, they pull up quite well. No way would I put anything less on it.
Thanks guys... Do you have any part numbers for the rotors by chance?
I just re-read my post and didn't mean it to sound like I wanted DBA pads... Should have said DBA rotors and I haven't decided on pads yet... It was a long night...
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