2.5TDI rattle

[t4 camper]

Hi All,
I have a 2003 Transporter TDI manual fitted as a camper that has developed a loud rattle and vibration. It came in with a bang that indicates something broke.
The engine code is ACV, has done 147K, timing belt done at 120K. I had it from new.
I have checked the exhaust manifold but cannot find a crack or leak.
I checked the intake and found it full of grease and was shocked.





I also checked the injectors by cracking the pipes at idle and noting a slow down, off beat and then pick up when sealed.
I tried to check valve clearance but found cam direct on buckets.
How is the valve clearance checked?

I suspect the dual mass flywheel is the culprit.
The flywheel can be rotated about 10 mm either way by screwdriver through the inspection hole near the starter motor.

Is this normal?

Neil

PS, 2 of us newbies have recently registered with near identical user names.
If it causes confusion I will gladly reregister, the other t4camper has a heap of cred under that name in the UK.

[h100vw]

This will be one for Golfloon I think.

The DMF does move about a bit though which is why they use them, to smooth out the changes. My 1.8T one was like that I reckon.

Unless the springs have given up and fallen out of it?

Gavin

[Golf Loon]

Does it drive the same?

I`d suspect the dual mass. Its a big job to change it, but a bigger job when it destroys your gearbox.

The only other thing to check is the support bracket for the leg of the gearbox on the back of the motor, they shatter and then would rattle. Mine broke and smashed the sump at 60KPH!

[Jmac]

That DMF sounds well within tolerance, there is a check procedure for it, with he box removed mind you. i think the mount is a good place to look 1st. With the engine running you should be able to put a long extension to the bellhousing and have a listen, clutch engaged and then disengaged, you may also feel some weirdeness through the clutch pedal if the DMF is faulty.
Jmac

[Silver Caravelle]

Possibly Right and left Engine Mounts (or both) or support mount at back of engine.

First check the support mount at back of engine. The rubber bush in the mount cracks and can cause the diff sump plug to vibrate against the subframe.

Regards,
Scott

[t4 camper]

Thanks for the help,
Have checked the support bracket and engine mounts, all is fine.
I probably should have described the noise as a knock rather than rattle as it speed is matched to engine rev and is internal.
The clutch feels the same, noise is same with pedal in & out.
I think I will focus on some engine checks before tackleing the DMF since the 10mm is reasonable.
Engine is slightly down on power, at both low & high revs.

I have tried a stick to my ear but am unable to pick much difference between the bellhousing and the #4 & 5 cylinders.

My next thoughts are to pull the injectors and have them serviced/replaced and a compression test to check valve seating considering all the grease that was in the intake manifold.

What compression pressure should I be looking for?

My petrol compression gauge goes to 300psi/2100Kpa, is that high enough?

Any recomendations for injector service or supply on the Sunshine Coast.
Thanks Neil

[BrianJ]

Thanks for the help,
Have checked the support bracket and engine mounts, all is fine.
I probably should have described the noise as a knock rather than rattle as it speed is matched to engine rev and is internal.
The clutch feels the same, noise is same with pedal in & out.
I think I will focus on some engine checks before tackleing the DMF since the 10mm is reasonable.
Engine is slightly down on power, at both low & high revs.

I have read on the http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/ which is a UK site of noises like this being caused by worn or collapsed cam followers. This is usually caused by the wrong oil being used in a PD engine.

Brian

[Transporter]

Thanks for the help,
Have checked the support bracket and engine mounts, all is fine.
I probably should have described the noise as a knock rather than rattle as it speed is matched to engine rev and is internal.
The clutch feels the same, noise is same with pedal in & out.
I think I will focus on some engine checks before tackleing the DMF since the 10mm is reasonable.
Engine is slightly down on power, at both low & high revs.

I have tried a stick to my ear but am unable to pick much difference between the bellhousing and the #4 & 5 cylinders.

My next thoughts are to pull the injectors and have them serviced/replaced and a compression test to check valve seating considering all the grease that was in the intake manifold.

What compression pressure should I be looking for?

My petrol compression gauge goes to 300psi/2100Kpa, is that high enough?

Any recomendations for injector service or supply on the Sunshine Coast.
Thanks Neil

Take it to VW workshop and let them to diagnose it. At least you will have some clue what it is or might be, rather then pull many things apart.
Or you can send oil sample from the engine to the oil company for testing. Ring Castrol technical and ask. The cost should be somewhere around $100 for test. They will need some info from you like what brand and viscosity is the oil and how many km's on the oil and how old is it. It doesn't take long, when they receive sample they test it and within a day you get e-mail with results. That will give you some idea if your camshaft/rockers are worn out or not.

[Jmac]

Down on power not so good, have a compression test done to at least pinpoint the cylinder, if power was ok i would have pointed you to the exhauster pump for the brakes driven off the camshaft but sounds deeper than that, doesnt sound DMF at all mate.

[Golf Loon]

You need a diesel compression tester. It will blow a petrol one apart.

Did you chack the bolts holding the cvs in at the gearbox end?

[Jmac]

Down on power not so good, have a compression test done to at least pinpoint the cylinder, if power was ok i would have pointed you to the exhauster pump for the brakes driven off the camshaft but sounds deeper than that, doesnt sound DMF at all mate.

Diesel compression tester also requires adapter for the job too, and you should expect around 360psi- 450psi so yeah a normal tester will hit the roof.
Jmac

[jets]

[QUOTE=t4 camper;309958]
I tried to check valve clearance but found cam direct on buckets.
How is the valve clearance checked?QUOTE]

Your engine has hydraulic lifters, so no need to check clearance.

[t4 camper]

Thanks for all the help.
Dropped the vacuum pump and pulled the cam follower this morning.
Noise is still there.
Thanks Jets, solved that query.

Time for professional help.
Neil

[t4 camper]

Had arranged to meet Jmac for a professional diagnoses on Sunday,
set off to meet him and rattle got louder in a hurry, just got back home.
Definately from top rear of engine, still thought was turbo.
Pulled out turbo and manifolds tonight, all OK.
Take rocker cover off again.
Find some spare bits floating around.


tops from cam followers #2 & #3


So next is off with it's head.

Any recomendations for head repair on Sunshine Coast or Brisbane?
Also gaskets and cam followers/parts.
Hope the valves and pistons have not had an untimely meeting.
Neil.

[BrianJ]

I don't understand what has happened there, isn't the trouble external in the rocker area, why do you need to take the head off as the vales should have opened less, so could not hit the pistons.

Or have I got this all wrong.

Brian