T5 2009 4-Motion No Ignition Power

[jjhobart]

Hi Everyone.
I have lost all power in my T5 Caravelle.
Battery fully charged.
Was starting yesterday.
Today not power anywhere that I can see.
No dash lights, no reaction to the key.
Is there a main fuse/relay I need to check? If so where?
Last thing I did yesterday was plug in a compressor to a badly corroded rear 12V socket - didn't work, but just thought it was too badly corroded.
Thanks
JJ

[T54Motion]

Hi JJ
Greetings from a fellow Sunshine Coaster,
I would check battery voltage first, then fuses.
Peter

[jjhobart]

Peter, The battery is perfect, almost new and fully charged according to the 8 stage charger and the multimeter.
It is showing a minimal draw (0.03 volts) into the vehicle - so something is drawing power - it just not going where it is needed and I can't figure out why.
The vehicle was partially immersed in the recent Gympie floods, and while I got it running ok (and drove it over 50km) something subsequent to that is bringing it undone. I have pulled and checked Engine Compartment and passenger seat fuses and will be re-checking all the dash fuses again today.
Regards JJ

[Syncrotek]

Hi JJ,

Bad news about the flooding, how deep was the vehicle in the water ? and which engine code ?

Just to cover basics first, with a digital Multimeter (DMM) test the battery voltage at the battery terminal posts with the key in the "ignition on" position, and headlights on, make sure it is out of gear with hand brake on, write down the result, then connect the DMM to the battery cable terminals with the key in the "ignition on" position, and headlights on, (write down the result) this will tell if the cable terminals are making a good connection or not to the battery terminal posts (as I said basics first),
If there is around 12 volts at the battery cable terminals it will determine the next step. So, let us know the results of this first step.

[BrianJ]

I think there is high current links under the battery case in the motor compartment, did you check those. They are lowest so likely to have been in flood water.

[jjhobart]

Hi Folks - Thanks for the replies.
After checking every fuse I could find including in the area under the battery, power is back and I can start the engine and it appears to run ok.
Now I have two different (but probably related) problems.
1. The passenger door is deadlocked and can't be unlocked. (No door open, no fuel filler access.)
2. The airbag fault light is on.
I have a Scanz OBD tool which has access a number of VW systems.
I haven't made a note of the errors that can't be cleared but the main concern is the Central Control Unit is not being recognised as valid. (I think this it the circuit board under the passenger seat. and was under water. This was taken out and cleaned with circuit board cleaner.)
I read somewhere that these units have to be "matched/programmed/setup" for the specific vehicle. The Scans device has a facility for doing this I understand, but there is no information on how to actually do it.
Any help or pointers would be appreciated - particularly the door deadlock problem.
Regards
JJ

[jjhobart]

Hi Folks - Latest update.
I had the position of the Comfort Central Control Module wrong. Its under the Drivers seat, not passenger seat.
the door deadlock situation has been resolved. I found this video on google which shows a simple method to unlock the door. VW T5 Opening electrically deadlock PART 2 on central lock Volkswagen passenger door problem - YouTube and I am glad I did not complete my attempt to force the fuel filler flap (and did not damage it either).
My Scanz OBD tool is showing a 01330 Central Control Module error that can't be cleared and this is central to the Airbag, ESP dash lights and Passenger door lock problem so a replacement module needs to be sourced.
So all in all I have my vehicle back driving better than ever.
After I owned the vehicle for a while there was a noticeable and uncomfortable vibration around 1500 - 2000 revs which took ages to properly identify and resolve. Turned out to be absolutely shot engine mounts. Replacing all of them made a big difference, but the final fix was after the clutch plate collapsed and a new "clutch kit" was installed. (Clutch kit includes clutch plate, pressure plate, dual mass flywheel and slave cylinder - $2000 plus installation 10 hours work.)
Not the injectors I originally thought - which I had taken out and cleaned - a pain of a job.
So 260000 km and still running well - except for the Central Control Module.
Thanks for your interest.
Regards
JJ

[Rebuild]

there is a wire some way from the ccu under the floor covering, that has a soldered join covered in tape that corrodes. Resolder it. Can't remember, think it was a blue wire.
Check your 12V at the ccu while moving wires around.

my ccu is under drivers seat(panel van)

edit: appears we posted at similar time. Glad you fixed it.

[Sunny43.5]

Not wanting to ring any alarm bells but from my experience with car interiors etc a car being submerged [depending on how far ] it may over the next 12 months or so start to show other issues . I worked on dozens of cars that were involved with floods over the last 50 plus years and we saw more and more problems months afterwards and more so with newer cars with lots of electronics. Some of the older cars had diodes in the alternators and they would absorb water , they were fine for a few months and then they would just disintegrate . Just keep an eye on it as if it was only under during the February time it could still be an issue months from now .

[jjhobart]

Hi Sunny, Thanks for the heads-up (I guess).
I had about 8 inches over the floor on the passenger side a bit less on the drivers side so most of the higher up electronics were spared.
I have a 2nd hand Comfort Control Unit coming from Lithuania. Hopefully it will be ok and $150 to get it reprogrammed at VW.
The dealer told me there were none available in Australia and none available from VW Germany.
Once I get that installed (2 minutes) and programmed I'll be interested to see what faults I am left with. I have quite a few at the moment but all seem to point back to this unit. The Engine ECU is not showing any so that's good.
I'm hoping the EPS light goes away as that cause me some (rear wheel lock-up?) problems on tight turns.
JJ