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IIRC, was reasonably tight to turn, took some effort and time
I actually ended up taking the caliper off the van and put it in a vice, as it was too hard to apply inward pressure and turn it with it still on the van
I worked out it had something to do with the handbrake spring, took the spring off the caliper and then the piston went back.
Then I had trouble with the front , took the wheel off and found out the two bolts are 9mm hex, I searched everywhere today for 9mm, had to buy a whole set from Bunnings just to get one. Supercheap Autobarn ect could not help.
Brakes are now done, took me all day and learned a little, I Bled the brakes while the engine was running, should I have done it while off? I just drove it around the block.
I ended up putting in TRW cotec ceramic pads, lets see if they last and produce less dust.
I made a similar tool from an old socket has the two lugs after some grinding . What I then did was place the socket over the piston and then used a "G "clamp to put pressure on the socket while simultaneaously using a pair of vise grips on the socket to wind the piston back in , now not sure but I think form memory it winds back in in a different direction to what you expect like a reverse thread .
The first time I did the rears, I didn't have the proper tool and ended up using a pair of pointy nosed pliers.
You shouldn't have to bleed the system though unless you're changing the brake fluid.
2018 Crafter Runner
2012 T5.1 6sp manual.
2024 Crafter Auto
I purchased a complete kit [31 parts in a case] from an Aust. seller for from memory $26 that had 2 wind in tools, one RH & the other LH.
It's just not worth making & modifying tools when they are so cheap. On my Golf I found the LHS piston had stuck causing premature wear on the pad. While the piston is extended, I clean the outside dust seal with an old tooth brush & water & dry with compressed air. I carefully fold it back & try & turn the piston while applying a small amount of brake assy. lube before winding it back in.
Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels
I'd buy a full kit, but the likelihood of using everything in it, is pretty slim. Plus it's more to drag around everywhere.
With the premature rear brake wear on the MK5s, there was an issue on the early ones where the suspension movement would pull tension on the handbrake cables, causing a small amount of drag.
My piston winder from supercheap broke, it was if poor quality and they dont make them to last, I ended up using a G clamp worked like a charm. I did both front and rear brakes and rotors, but undid the bleeder nipple to push the piston back, hence why I bled the brakes.
[QUOTE=Umai Naa!!;1259386]I'd buy a full kit, but the likelihood of using everything in it, is pretty slim. Plus it's more to drag around everywhere.[QUOTE]
I agree. Each kit I buy uses valuable shelf space in my storage cupboards. However I probably need different tools for each of my cars.
Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels
With the premature rear brake wear on the MK5s, there was an issue on the early ones where the suspension movement would pull tension on the handbrake cables, causing a small amount of drag.
In my case it was only on the LHS Caliper. Thanks for your comment anyway.
Understand how it works, troubleshoot logically BEFORE replacing parts.
2001 T4 TRAKKA Syncro 2.5TDI,2006 Mk5 2.0TDI Golf manual,2001 Polo 1.4 16V manual [now sold], '09 2.0CR TDI Tiguan manual,
Numerous Mk1 Golf diesels
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