Sam's build thread

[sambb]

Yeah if its just circuit then you cant beat A050 or from Gary has said the Dunlop Direzza DZ03G are a goodn too. Theres the Hankook Z221 (I think) but not sure if they have 15's. I reckon 205/50/15 mediums would be the go but running 195/55/15 on the back and the 205/50's on the front would work great too if that's all you can scrounge up will work great too.
If you were to use a street semi rather than a full r spec then the best would be the yoko AD08R($) or Federal RSRR/Nitto NT01 (which is affordable). You can find Toyo R888R's for pretty cheap on ebay sometimes but they seem to be mostly in 195/50/15, haven't seen too many 205's for a good price.
Best bet would be to keep hunting for r specs on gumtree being careful of the sidewall build dates to make sure you get something reasonably fresh, but the top street semis will go pretty hard too.

[simon k]

thanks for that Sam

[simon k]

I reckon a pair of these will be the go

FEDERAL TYRES 2055015 205/50R15 205-50-15 595 RS-RR RS RR RSRR BRAND NEW SEMI SLICK TYRES

[sambb]

Those guys always have federals cheap and are pretty good on postage normally too apparently. For the money they are pretty heard to beat. They're not a fully fledged R spec semi despite what they claim but they are probably nearly as good as a bad set of semis. From what Sean has said the RS RR with that tread cut tyre roars like a mofo if that kind of thing gets to you. Are you just going to run them on the front or get a full set?

[simon k]

Those guys always have federals cheap and are pretty good on postage normally too apparently.

kinda, freight for is $60 - regardless whether I get 2 or 4 - for a pair that makes them borderline for price with getting them from Melbourne - we're down there this weekend.

I can get them locally at $185 - on the phone the bloke from tyrepower was a bit upset when I told him how much they were from St George, then he went through every extra cost and said "see, it's the same price as buying them from me" - I think he expected a fight, but I just said, "I'm in Melbourne this weekend, I'll see if I can get some down there, I'll get back to you"... I've found them at one place for $135, but not sure if they fit and dispose of the old rubber for that. A place near mum (in Melb) will do them for $169 but that's still a bit much.

From what Sean has said the RS RR with that tread cut tyre roars like a mofo if that kind of thing gets to you.

pfft - come on, I drive a 50 year old mini for fun, what do I care about noise from tyres

Are you just going to run them on the front or get a full set?

just on the front, the existing nankangs have plenty of life in them to go on the rear. Hopefully they balance grip OK, a little bit of oversteer would be nice, but not too much

[sambb]

Just be careful at $135 they are RS RR and not the earlier RS R. If the latter then they'd be a bit shelf old by now. When I first started doing comps I ran AD08R's (yoko equivalent) on the front and RE003's on the back at the hillclimbs and it went great like that

[simon k]

they're definitely RSRR, but a local club member who runs an MX5 told me about a tyre place in Melb that does 2nd hand A050s - I rang and he's put a pair aside for me. He said they're pretty worn but I'd get a day out of them - $40 each - I'll grab them and start saving, if they only last a day then that's OK, if I get more out of them then good. The lady with the MX5 said she did the same and used the same 2nd hand pair all last year. I'm a bit harder on my gear than she is, but still... ought to be OK

I'll keep an eye on the Yoko 3 for 4 offers

[sambb]

nice. Even if they end up as your back pair when you find some fresher ones for the front. Your 15's are 7in wide yeah. If so keep an eye out also for 215/50/15 A050. They fit at ET32 on a 7in rim under the front guards no probs and I'm pretty sure Gary said they have a wider contact patch than 225/45/16 A050's so they are a proper step up in width. I bought one of mine from a Melbourne tyre guy on gumtree so keep an eye out there.

[simon k]

ahhh sh*t - I didn't think to ask about 215s - I'll see whats there on the Saturday... unfortunately space in the car is limited, I mightn't get 4 in the car, it'll probably be chockers as is.

We're picking #2 daughter up from the airport on Sunday morning, she's been in Japan for 5 weeks and keeps sending her mum pictures of what she's buying (her own money, not mine!). Outback might get some tyres on the roof...

[sambb]

If they do have 215/50's let me know!!! hard to find.

[seangti]

From what Sean has said the RS RR with that tread cut tyre roars like a mofo if that kind of thing gets to you. Are you just going to run them on the front or get a full set?

Yeah, they make a racket. But got better laps times and felt better than the Kumho V70's I'd ran prior and still gripping later in life. For the price, it just meant I could do silly things on track if I wanted and not care about the tyre damage/longevity. "out for a good time, not a long time"

[simon k]

Yeah, they make a racket. But got better laps times and felt better than the Kumho V70's I'd ran prior and still gripping later in life. For the price, it just meant I could do silly things on track if I wanted and not care about the tyre damage/longevity. "out for a good time, not a long time"

I ended up with a pair of R888Rs and a pair of A050s, then someone offered me some 225/50 A048s so I'll grab them too. Won't need tyres for a while

Some of the locals are building up cars to go in the Hyundai Excel series. The control tyre for the series is 595 RSRR in 195/50 so I'll be able to grab them for the rears as another option.

[sambb]

Got the call that the gearbox is finished so i'll pick that up next week. So now I'm thinking clutches......which will be the best clutch setup considering that:
a) with the Kaaz LSD I'll have a lot more grip off the line and while the ECS stage 1 has been ok with the wavetrac, I'm wondering if clutch slip might creep in.
b) OR is keeping the ECS stage 1 setup advisable given that a weak link isn't such a bad idea. Think Subaru boxes. I have no idea if the stock 5 speed will be able to cope with hard launches when a much more uprated clutch bites fully and both fronts hunker down and grip.

Current setup on a stage 2 tune 230-240hp/300Nm?, 14lb steel flywheel, ECS stage 1 clutch 250 lb ft (338Nm).

From what I can gather the stg 1 clutch lits are just a VR6 plate and cover. They often claim higher clamping force than stock but I don't think this means the pressure plates are anything custom or special, its just that the VR6 pressure plate has a higher clamping force than the stock Polo one.
The Stg 2 clutch kits seem to range from standard VR6 clutch plates and slightly higher clamping force pressure plates to get max torque up to 320 (430Nm) which is heaps and may or may not have hybrid clutch plates eg Kevlar on one side, sintered/organic on the other 340lb (475Nm).
Another option I've heard come up from UK guys and also Brian from GTI Imports is to run a VR6 clutch plate with a VW Transporter pressure plate which is apparently like the more basic Stg 2 kits outlined above but also cost effective.

So if anyone has their (personal experience) opinions on whether the change to the proper LSD alone dictates that I need an uprated clucth OR on the contrary if staying with what I've got will protect the gearbox (that's if it even needs protecting) , I'd like to hear it. Weighing into that is the future possibility of going up moderately in turbo size to a K03 hybrid eg BBT280 or a Garret GT2554R.

[sambb]

PS. other thing to consider is that I'm not going to do the rods. If they go all bendy in my current engine then I'll just swing my spare engine in BUT it is feasible that a good plate diff launch coupled with a solid clutch might just stress the rods a lot more. Given that the stg 1 clutch options are rated to 250lb ft (340Nm), maybe in the interest of rod preservation the existing clutch setup will be fine?

[Sydneykid]

For a combo car I'd be more inclined to go for a higher pressure plate camping force rather than a more bitey friction material. As long as your leg is strong enough you can modulate the heavier pressure plate. Which is something you can't do as easily with a high CoF friction plate. Not just for launch but also gear changes, where the impact loads can be very high.

Cheers
Gary