Sam's build thread

[sambb]

These are the two different gear linkages out of the car. The one out of my old car as slimmer steel cable support brackets and seans car had the bulkier plastic variety. It was an optical illusion - they both set the height of the cables the same atop the gearbox and they both put the top cable in a position where it fouls on the bottom of the forge TIP. The one out of my old car, an 06', also has a different shifter base mechanism which looks smaller but is fixed with metal rather than all plastic gear. It was the later one out of the new car which had cracked so possibly the earlier ones are stronger. Fitted that which is a nightmare job when your lying on your back under the car cos you have to drop all the throat slitting aluminium heat shields and the exhaust to get it in there whilst grit and crud falls into your eyes, but was well worth it. I did this setup afterwards : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeOoDJuhSx8 and now its nice and slick.

turd
better!
Now that the 3'' dump is in and an SAI deleted Its back to being a Stage 2'er.

[Eddy]

Hoyhoy.

VW Group Shifter Adjustment - YouTube

Handy vid there Sam, think I'll check it out before putting her back together, new to me, Ta.
The Little Blue Girl is the same as your earlier model, but with the Verdict-42 design bushes.

[louis19]

Nice work Sam. You've done well to transfer as many parts across in the time that you have

[sambb]

yeah eddy this was the first time I've had a look at the shifter bushes properly. I thought I was looking at flogged bushes and went and dug out the ones off the old car from under the house thinking they'd be better, but no. I'll definitely look into something better like the 42DD ones. I just need to get my box back first because its still with the gearbox builder and the forge quick shift was with it so i'll measure up the pin diameters soon. The only tricky bit in the vid is getting the right angled pin to go in. You just need to make sure you've already dropped the tension off the shifter linkage adjusters and then basically push it down and just jiggle it near the bottom as you twist the pin. Apparently the pins can get brittle so if it doesn't feel right don't force it. Thinking abut it I bet they break because people forget to take them back out again and then go nuts on the gearstick. I just used a 5mm drill bit to pin the shifter.

Thanks Louis. I've been busting my arse that's for sure. Wifey didn't like the whole wreck car dismantling in the driveway look and had the ****s with the time I spent on that, so she pressed me into service on anything that needed chopping, mowing, painting etc. So its been days on the house and nights on the car and sometimes not much sleep in between. I'm still super motivated to have it all ready for 2 months time which is my home state event - that means turbo and also box swap and I found a dud driveshaft too so still some big jobs to tackle. Its now basically back to what it was except for the turbo. I just took it for a proper drive then. It was good to have driven a standard K03s versus the modded one on the same exhaust/tune and even with the added benefit of the front mount and I could definitely feel the difference. The modded turbo was basically better everywhere. It spooled quicker (although that could be front mount induced lag affecting this turbo) had more midrange and instead of nosing over at 5500 would keep going to 7000rpm, but provided I get the LSD box in i'll be more competitive than I was even on this turbo.

A lesson I just learned - even if you have a stage 2 with the SAI delete, you still need the second cat sensor plugged in. On second start up after doing the pipe I got a second sensor heating element error. I'd removed the sensor and put a blanking plug in its place and unplugged it at the underbody j box. When I got the error I knew it had to be that but wasn't 100% on why. Thanks to Gav for his tech support on this - the ECU is independent of sensor feedback also looking at the sensor heating circuit. I was considering just plugging it in but not fitting the sensor to the cat, it just looked so neat without it especially cos this 08'car doesn't have the resonator under there either. I was worried about sensor heat and tested it and it never got hot. I don't even think it got warm but I don't like the thought of fires under the underbody shield so I re fitted it to be safe. Back under, sensor back in, clear the code, all fluffy again!

[sambb]

A mate just remembered that he has a garrett 2871 disco potatoe tucked away that I could have. Of course I couldn't help myself and started looking at GT2871R kits for transverse 1.8T's. Is that the same turbo? There are mk4 golf kits but does anyone know if these will fit in a Polo engine bay? Does anyone know anyone who has a kit for this kind of conversion lying around?

[sambb]

edit. sorry not a disco potato Gt2860 its a Gt2871 with the 0.64 exhaust housing. From what I can see there are hardware kits galore to run this turbo. I'd be interested but would want to hear from anyone who's run it on our engine in that guise to get a gauge on spool times, peak boost rpms etc cos despite being ball bearing turbos's I've read in a few places that they are not particularly quick spoolers.

[seangti]

$17 a bolt is insane. Call other dealers as I've found each dealer to price differently. I recall paying around $7-$9 a bolt... Louis also had the same experience, dealers local to him charging more than my local.

Re the garrett turbo. Check out the MkIV section for carlos' car... I have no idea what his forum name is, I'm sure he's on here. He has some garrett turbo on it. Or message Louis as he's looking at the garrett path too.

[sambb]

righto thanks

[sambb]

Awesome news. Gearbox is ready to pick up! Will be getting all the tools ready over the weekend, hopefully fitting the pinion brace and grinding the bellhousing for the single mass conversion, and then fitting up starting on sunday night.

Alright I've got some driveshaft questions though:

1. The driveshaft to driveshaft flange seals OEM from VW are different to the ones already in the driveshafts. They are a fibre gasket looking material with an adhesive backing. Question is, does the adhesive go on the driveshaft side or on the flange side?

2. How much play is normal in the CV end. I'm going to install my box with the used drivers side (long shaft) out of the old car because the one that's in there has a small grease leak from the inner joint. Not a split boot but grease is finding its way out of the boots seal at the non crimped flange side. The grease conveniently misses the grease shield and flies up the back of the block. I'll just chuck in the spare one from the other car and then get the one out of the new car reconditioned when I get some money together. But the shaft I'm putting in has some slight circumfrential play at the CV. Not total slop just some. So is a little bit normal or should you not be able to feel ANY freeplay? It'll be going in regardless but just want to get a gauge on whether its on its way out or not. It never did the click click at full lock thing.

So yeah if anyone can help especially with regard to the adhesive backed driveshaft to driveshaft flange seal that would be great.

[Eddy]

Hoyhoy.

I just had a look @ my new ones Sam which aren't in yet & their the same as in your pic, CV Australia who put them together has taken the backing off & stuck the gasket to the shaft.

[sambb]

Thanks Eddy. Looks like the way to go then. Kind f glad they are adhesive backed. The plain rubber ones that are in there are all over the shop. I was wondering how on earth I was going to get them to stay in place while I bolted it up. Ta

[sambb]

Picked up these babies today:



The flywheel is a 14lb ECS. It was brand new but I decided to get it refaced lightly cos it had a few tiny spots of surface rust. I was going to get it lightened but most of the advice was to leave it especially considering the near 100km round trip to work I do through Sydneys finest traffic jams.
The box has been rebuilt with all bearings (german ones), new 2nd gear synchro, gears given a clean bill of health, and best of all a Wavetrac. When I went to pick it up he was kind enough to fit the aftermarket pinion brace on the spot which needed a bit of fettling to sit flush and then checked that it had sufficient clearance between itself and the clutch release. The ECS bellhousing scraping tool should arrive before the weekend hopefully so that I can clearance the bellhousing.


So I've got another question. Anyone know the OEM spec gearbox oil grade? I need to order some oil for the box and I just want to check that the wavetrac specified Motul 300 75W90 is the same grade spec as OEM but I cant seem to find anything definitive on the web. The other oil wavetrac recommends is the Motul Competition gear oil for comp use. Its a 75W140 but the gearbox guy cringed at that and said that would be ok in a RWD diff or a FWD box with dog gears but he thought the synchros would struggle with that thickness.

[sambb]

Here's the pinion brace fitted.

So with the gearbox oil I was told by VW that the OEM recommended oil I need is part# G 070 726 A2 which replaces G 055 726 A2. Its $30 a litre. They couldn't tell me the oil grade (unbelievable!). I googled the part number and it came up as Ravenol MTF-3 which is SAE 75W - So there's no hot temp oil viscosity quoted. Does this mean it a 75 cold and hot? More confused than ever now. Need to track down diff and synchro friendly oil asap.

Redline MTL was 70W80 - I can't use that oil with the wavetrac cos of its friction modifiers but even still its much lighter than the thinnest recommended Motul 300 which is 75W90. any help appreciated

[sambb]

Told that it will be all good with the Motul 300 75W90. A hillclimber guy from Adelaide with a golf 4 has used it with no adverse affects to his synchros (at least in feel) so I'm happy to go that way. He said apparently you can get it from motorcycle shops too. Found a supplier near work in Sydney and should have it tomorrow.

[seangti]

I run Penrite Synthetic in mine, I think it's 75/90. Feels good. I did a gearb cable reset the other night, that's made it much better too. So definately do that - I regret not having done it sooner.