Sam's build thread

[teamshaw]

Cool, sounds like I’m going Yokos then [emoji3]Looking forward to checking out your mods at the state round.


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[teamshaw]

Sam's build thread

A050’s are going to cost me 4x on the RSRs. Might have to go with the Federals I think [emoji29]

If I save 1.5k on the tyres that means the LSD is a fair bit closer!


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[sambb]

yep they are just stupid money new. Id say if you can hang out and see if something pops up on gumtree or give Gordon Levens a call and they may have something second hand. But yeah that money can go on a diff for sure. My first gearbox build including wavetrac diff and single mass flywheel conversion still cost 2500 though with me doing the in and out on the box. That's just cars - it all costs too much $$$

[metalhead]

Especially if you pay anyone to do anything. I couldn't justify the cost of the AO50s, but picked up some cheap from wtac guys for this year. I'm hoping they're not as good as everyone says, because I can't afford to pay full price!

[simon k]

I'm thinking about doing a sprint at Winton on the 24th - it's being run by the car club that runs the track so under their class rules - ALL turbo cars are in their Modified class!

Tyres are free so even if I'm running the flashest semis in the world I'd go faster if I bought 2nd hand slicks... I'm gonna need yet another set of wheels

[teamshaw]

I’ve decided to go for the Nankang AR-1. I know the reviews of these on here haven’t been great, but they seem to be better than the RSRs for not much more $$$, and way less than the A050s.


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[sambb]

Not a bad move. They'd be ahead of an RSR and their compound seems to be half way between a soft and a medium which is ideal for a double duty hillclimb/sprint car. You had 15 x 7 yeah so 205/50/15 would be sweet.

[sambb]

I'm thinking about doing a sprint at Winton on the 24th - it's being run by the car club that runs the track so under their class rules - ALL turbo cars are in their Modified class!

Tyres are free so even if I'm running the flashest semis in the world I'd go faster if I bought 2nd hand slicks... I'm gonna need yet another set of wheels

nice - I'd love to drive slicks. I'd love to hear a follow up on that.

[teamshaw]

Not a bad move. They'd be ahead of an RSR and their compound seems to be half way between a soft and a medium which is ideal for a double duty hillclimb/sprint car. You had 15 x 7 yeah so 205/50/15 would be sweet.

Nah, I have a second set of stockers so 205/45/16.


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[HaydEn]

Have you fitted the harnesses yet? Interested to see how much angle you have using the anchor points down there.

Do officials have much to say about excessive angle or is it more of a “not the right way to do it, but now a law”?


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[sambb]

No I haven't. Well not with the stock seat at least. Where I needed the cutout to be in the seat just wouldn't line up in a way that gave the latches, buckles and webbing enough room between all the height adjuster/release bars etc under the seat. I had the knife in my hand a couple of times and each time just thought nup cant do it. I'll probably be able to borrow a 4 pointer for Bathurst, just to get me through which will buy me a bit more time to organise a proper 6 point setup. My waist belt points are all on the same angles as the stock belt points, just closer to the floor. The shoulder strap belts are right on the 45 degree limit. If taken from the anhle of the seat or my spine they are fine but the regs say the angle is taken from the horizontal. I'm pushing that a bit but at the end of the day its legal. here are the regs:

https://www.cams.com.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/schedule-i.pdf?sfvrsn=b143a052_10

I'm actually looking at a race seat up your way on sunday night. If I'm lucky I may have that in for Bathurst and run with a 4 pointer, and then start saving for a 6 pointer to go with it down the track. I 'll need a 3 in shoulder strap 6 pointer as I wont run a hans (couldn't afford to anyway) without a cage and the regs don't say I'll need one any time soon either as my car is a 'registered enclosed automobile'.
So in short the fixation of the points is the drivers responsibility but yep they can look at the angles and question those. I reckon i'll be questioned on the 45 degree thing but unless they have protractors and a level to prove it (which I have) then I think i'll be ok if I jump up and down. The long term aim is to weld in a proper harness bar/rear strut tower mount and run the harness off that. The currect shoulder strap mounts are temporary (but still legal). I reckon in your R32 you'd have a greater distance from the seat back to the rear seat so your angle wouldn't be as tight as mine anyway. Yours should be ok to run like mine.

[HaydEn]

Interesting. I haven’t honestly looked at it to much, due to the stigma of harness bars and angles etc. I know a good harness and seat is important though! (Had a friend a few years ago who improved by over 2 seconds at Wakefield in his N15 pulsar going from stock seat to harness and race seat)

I’ll have a look into, the only issue I see is the sparco’s sit really high in the car because of the sliding rails, thus will still have a lot of angle.

I have seen people mounting harness to the ‘strut braces’ placed in the back but not sure how good that would be either..
VW Golf mk4 Harness bar (strut brace) | eBay


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[sambb]

Yeah I wouldn't mount to a strut brace. They work in tension or compression along the length of the bar but not the direction of the shoulder straps. A few pages back Sydneykid/Gary mentioned the spec of CrMo tubing youd need to make the strut bar out of for it to double as a harness bar safely. The advantage is you can get your shoulder straps right into the -10 degrees range from horizontal pretty easily and at the same time stiffen up the chassis. It can be weld in or bolt in provided it uses a proper mounting flange and high tensile bolts.
But if your rear seat belt points are say 30 degrees then just do that as they are rated factory engineered points that no scrutineer could argue with.

[sambb]

So word on the street from an R32 forum seems to be that a 2K2 ohm resister across the ECU side of the seat airbag plug - green and white wires. That will bridge out the airbag so you don't have an alarm when you fit a race seat. I'll try it myself when I get to work on Monday to confirm and if it works i'll put the bridge in with a switch. That way I can switch it to un-bridged when the stock seat is in, and bridged when I have the OE seat out and race seat fitted for events. I think I said earlier that all you have to do to cancel the seat belt alarm is just unplug the red plug.

[HaydEn]

http://www.users.on.net/~quozl/PDF/Airbag%20Resistor%20Guide.pdf

Can confirm this works.


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