Sam's build thread

[simon k]

sounds like an plan Sam

BTW I'll make you a banjo bolt and post it up if you can't find something, or I know a mini guy in Baulkham Hills who would make you one if you were nice to him

[sambb]

There's an Enzed trader just near me so i'll get down there on monday and see if they can do something. If not though, Baulkham hills is doable. Its sort of on my long way home from work. I could easily drop off a bolt and banjo and beer to him! I'll let you know how I get on.thx

[Sydneykid]

Says it's good for 300*F, so probably not.

A couple of things, that's 300 degrees F at 128 ft lbs. Plus it's a water jacket banjo, so it shouldn't get over 200 degrees F. If it does you have somewhat of cooling system overheating problem. I've used it on exhaust header studs in an emergency, more than once, and they get way hotter than a cooling system banjo.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Spewing - went to beumond trading, Enzed, some engineering shops etc etc and no one had anything on hand. Tilleys a pretty established racing shop near me suggested maybe just threading an AN fitting into that spot (with a longer thread) and replacing the whole hard pipe, but then we couldn't find a fitting that would fit between the exhaust manifold, wastegate actuator rod or the oil banjo. I'll just turn down the head of the banjo bolt ever so slightly and extend the thread on the bolt upwards by the same amount and put it in with the paste that Gary recommended. The guy t Tilleys did point out that there's no sealing benefit from a thread compound as that is all done y the washers but if it gives the threads a bit better strength at the lower torque they'll be bighting at then every bit will help. I'll see how I go.

[Stuwey]

A couple of things, that's 300 degrees F at 128 ft lbs.
Cheers
Gary

Ahhh, I see!

[sambb]

Good news is I was able to get the banjo bolt into the lathe last night and take sufficient meat off the bolts head to allow the bolt to get deeper inside the core. We luckily had a 14mm die so I extended the thread on the bolt to match what I took off the top. I only took enough off the bolt head to retain strength there (don't want that sheering off too) and did a test fit at spec 35Nm with washers into the turbo I'd removed from the car to make sure everything is fluffy with that. Problem is I cant find PC3967. Its on the international websites but I called Loctite Australia and they don't do it anymore, not as Form a thread, Stripped thread repair or PC3967. Cant even see it on ebay or any product like it. The only other thing I can think of is JB weld. Can you put that into high temp threads as a thread repair? Failing that I'll just have to use one of the medium or high strength thread lockers. If I'd been able to find PC3967 I'd have done this job before Bathurst. I have the gaskets etc etc to redo it now but as it is its not leaking so I'm a bit jittery about trying to sort it without the correct stuff and potentially making it worse. arghh

Still have to get my mediums stripped off and swapped with the softs (moving away from the idea of running my mediums on the front even if they are a bit wider). Often you only get 4 runs at Bathurst so every one has to count so I don't want to be chasing setup running a tyre set up I've never done before. There's probably more time in just being confident and familiar so I'll go softs all around again.

Also need to do some more logs. Already checked the compensation blocks at idle to check for induction leaks under vacuum but need to check the peak boost with the better turbo in there - wastegate might need adjusting, and then do some runs to check for any timing pull.

[Sydneykid]

There seems to be some still around under what I call "the old name" Loctite Form-A-Thread 28654 (it was/is common in the glass industry)

28654 - CRL Loctite(R) Form-A-Thread(R)

US Ebay
CRL Loctite Form-A-Thread - 28654 | eBay

When all else fails, Loctite Australia's contact
Contact & Services - Henkel



Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

You're too good Gary. CRL had it in stock so express post will hopefully have me sorting it on Thursday night.

[Sydneykid]

You're welcome, I'm here to help. BTW the shipment with your camber gauge is leaving the US tomorrow. Even better news, your tire totes are here, give me a call and we can organise a catch up.

Cheers
Gary

[HaydEn]

Bit of a run around of late Sam!

Good to see you've got it sorted!

[sambb]

Hi Mate. Indeed it has all been happening. Hasn't stopped there either. For some reason having the new turbo in with this different engine is trickier to set up than the last engine. The turbo boosts easier because its all freed up internally but that makes the N75 work pretty hard to keep the boost stable at higher rpm. You can feel and see the boost oscillating slightly in the logs and its robbing me of power. Its mostly happening I think because the wastegate flap is just blowing in the wind with such a light spring when its got up to 1.4bar on the upstream side of it. So last night I tried the 10psi actuator spring and it just overboosted like crazy. I put the 7psi back in but with more pre load and it overboosted also until I backed its pre load right off to only a mil or so. Gave up after that as my forearm was turning to toast reaching back there to do the actuator swaps. I think the solution tonight will be the 10psi spring again but with an N75 bypass. The bypass will clip the overboost, and the stiffer spring will stabilise the top end - well that's how it used to work anyway. Once I get a nice boost curve I can start getting some timing into it and see how it goes.

[metalhead]

Glad I'm not the only one who still has a bunch of work to do before Bathurst in a week! Coming along nicely.

BTW, tyresales gave me a full refund on the Contis (pretty impressive service!) and I bought a set of the AR1s... Haven't fitted them yet though.

[Sydneykid]

Glad I'm not the only one who still has a bunch of work to do before Bathurst in a week! Coming along nicely.
BTW, tyresales gave me a full refund on the Contis (pretty impressive service!) and I bought a set of the AR1s... Haven't fitted them yet though.

Please let me know how the AR1's go, they were on the control tyre tender this year and I have no experience with them.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Tomorrow I'll link up here a review (Suzuki swift cup car I think though) of the AR-1's. From what they said they surpass R888's and Nitto NT01's BUT are a bit heavy for their size. I think they said a 215/17/40 or something like that was nearly 2kg heavier per tyre than A050's but with a lots of horses like you have Andrew I doubt that'll matter too much. A mate of mine that I used to hillclimb with knows of Jordan Cox and visited him the other day and mentioned that he had loads of AR1's in his workshop - could be a clue. Once my mutilated softs are gone I might try them out too as a hillclimb tyre.

[metalhead]

Thanks Gary, I'm more than happy to share my thoughts and experiences with them, but really don't have any other R Spec experience to compare them with. Hopefully they'll be at least as fast as my street Continentals this time though!

That sounds about what I've heard about them Sam. Most people seem to be saying that they are closer to the Yokos than anything else, and I certainly can't justify the cost of the Yokos for my car at this time - very exxy in my sizes! Hopefully they work ok. I'm getting the car back from the painter (a few touchups, spray rear spoiler) tomorrow, so will have to trial fit them.