Polo 9n3 Performance Tracking Thread #2

[sambb]

Need Wakefield advice. I have a spare set of A050 mediums that i'll chuck on for a January track day. I have three pretty worn ones but one is an end of 2015 tyre that's only seen about 15 minutes on the track. So which front takes the biggest beating around wakefield - left front or right front?

[Eddy]

Need Wakefield advice. I have a spare set of A050 mediums that i'll chuck on for a January track day. I have three pretty worn ones but one is an end of 2015 tyre that's only seen about 15 minutes on the track. So which front takes the biggest beating around wakefield - left front or right front?

Hoyhoy.

The front left Sam by heaps.

[sambb]

Sweet. The other three are torched but front left it'll be for my good'n. Now I finally have a some proper motivation to get the brake ducts in too. thanks Eddy.

[seangti]

Need Wakefield advice. I have a spare set of A050 mediums that i'll chuck on for a January track day. I have three pretty worn ones but one is an end of 2015 tyre that's only seen about 15 minutes on the track. So which front takes the biggest beating around wakefield - left front or right front?

Yup, front left takes a beating on the right hand circuit. Only one left hander worth worrying about.

[Sydneykid]

Yep, clockwise circuit so left front does the most work. Hot weather in January + Wakefield = will kill A050s if you don't set it up right.

FWD set up tips for Wakefield (yes, it needs a staggered set up);

Equal cold tyre pressure on the rear, start off around 24 psi, then check after 5 laps, should both be 31 psi if not equalise hot pressures.
+2 psi on the left front when cold, start off around 25 psi right front and 23 psi left front, then check after 5 laps, should both be 31 psi if not equalise hot pressures.

0.25 to 0.50 more neg on the left front than the right front (obvious reason why).
Rear neg pretty much the same, maybe 0.25 less on the right rear.

At least 3mm and up to 5mm toe out on the front (it's a slow average speed circuit with tight radius corners)

At least 4mm toe out on the rear, 6mm is fine (ditto reasons) plus it ain't easy for you to adjust the rear toe at the circuit.

Lots of rear anti roll, I doubt that you can have too much.

You might need more rebound damping on the front shocks if it starts to understeer on the corner mid to exit transfer to power. There's a lot of brake turn power brake turn power stuff, so you need to keep the front settled. If it's reluctant to turn then try raising the rear ride height say 10 mm, and/or add more front toe out

On the drive down on road tyres it should feel all nervous and twitchy, which is what you want.


Hope that makes sense
Merry Xmas
Gary

[sambb]

Unreal - well that will take the guess work out of it! Thanks Gary. RE front neg camber I have left: 3.50 decimal degrees, right 2.50 degrees. I'll be running A050 mediums 205/50/15 on 7 inch rims. Should I bring the right side up 0.50 degree or back the left off by the same amount. ie left 3 degree right 2.5 degree OR left 3.5 degree right 3.0 degree.

[sambb]

Also was that meant to be 23psi cold for the front left, 25psi for the front right.

[Sydneykid]

Unreal - well that will take the guess work out of it! Thanks Gary. RE front neg camber I have left: 3.50 decimal degrees, right 2.50 degrees. I'll be running A050 mediums 205/50/15 on 7 inch rims. Should I bring the right side up 0.50 degree or back the left off by the same amount. ie left 3 degree right 2.5 degree OR left 3.5 degree right 3.0 degree.

Absolutely left 3.5 degrees right 3.0 degrees, you should generate enough lateral G for that.

Is that Sunday 14th Jan? Unfortunately I'll be in SA scoping out the new track at Talem Bend that weekend.

Cheers
Gary

[Sydneykid]

Also was that meant to be 23psi cold for the front left, 25psi for the front right.

Yep, got my other lefts mixed up I went back and swapped it, just for future reference.
Oh, actualy I was just testing to see if you were awake


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

No worries re pressures I knew what you meant. yep Jan 14th. If its anything like today in Sydney its going to be brutal on the car. Fair bit to do now actually. Luckily my 8kg/mm rears arrived and have gone straight in. With the rear bar set to soft they are actually no worse than the 6kg/mm rears (bar on hard) for ride comfort on Sydney's turd roads, which means they'll probably stay in there all the time.
I'll have to get my softs taken off the RP01's and the mediums put on, sort some front spacers, get the brake ducting in, rig up the front mount water spray. I also need to decide on a good set of front pads something that can cope with a day at wakefield, a rally sprint in February and then get through the rest of the year doing hillclimbs.

[seangti]

I also need to decide on a good set of front pads something that can cope with a day at wakefield, a rally sprint in February and then get through the rest of the year doing hillclimbs.

What brake set-up do you have? I'm on my second set of QFM A1RM's and been very happy with them in all driving conditions. They've certainly taken the track requirements in their stride along with daily commuting.

[sambb]

discs are DBA T2 288mm fronts and stock rears. Rear pads are remsa's and the fronts are the Bendix 3000's that I think you said was in the car when I bought it. Come to think of it I don't have the really high temp fluid either. In the hillclimbs of course I've never needed more. On the fronts I'd intended on keeping the backing plates in place and weld on a tube that the duct would blow air into. With xmas and all + I wont be at work for a bit, there won't be time to do that so I'll just get the backing plate off and run ducts from the fog light recesses that step down in diameter and blow against the inner face of the disc.
Cos of the standard di brakes discs I'll definitely have to do the front pads at minimum. I'll look into the QFM AR1M's then. thx

[seangti]

Unless you've changed the rears since buying it, they are DBA T2's. I run the castoril dot 4 stuff and never had an issue with it.

The remsa's may get a bit warm but wakefield isn't overly high speed, more so little stabs/brushing to get it around.

[sambb]

Yeah I changed out the discs for a fresh set of rotors off a fabia vRS when I got the calipers off the old car rebuilt. The DBA's were getting a bit lippy and the new ones were basically new. You had remsas in the back and I did on the other car too - can't remember which set I put in, probably the ones out of the old car as they were brand new. The rears have the stone guards missing after the botched shim effort too. For the fronts, I don't have to go QFM or green stuffs - I do have a set of remsa's off the old car. If you think remsas all round will handle it on stock sized rotors then I'll just do that. They held up well in the 3km+ rally sprints which was all point and squirt stuff. Considering that it could also be 40 degrees and lap after lap though I'm not sure.

[Eddy]

At least 3mm and up to 5mm toe out on the front (it's a slow average speed circuit with tight radius corners)



Merry Xmas
Gary

Hoyhoy.

This may make sense in theory, but not in practice.
O.K. may be a tiny bit of toe out with less HP than a Ko4 which Sam doesn't have.
I ran with neutral toe for Waky & still delaminated the front left more than once.
I say this with confidence after many a go @ Waky with the only street reg. 9N3 to crack sub 1'10" plenty of times.
(officially)
So Sam that's your target for Waky.