Thoughts on Oil drain valve.

[Redliner]

Has anyone used one of these oil drain valves.
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve - Something good for a change

I was thinking of buying one to make oil changes cleaner and easier.
The N-SERIES valve with the nipple means you could put a hose on then drain directly into a
empty oil container.

I am concerned with ground clearance.

Thoughts?

[vwthunder]

Yeah i saw them when they came out and was thinking, what if you hit something and it opened

[Redliner]

Found an ECS youtube clip mounting it to a MK4 GTI Golf.
ECS Tuning: Fumoto 14mm Oil Drain Valve With Adapter - YouTube
The Polo sumps are the same.
The valve mounts sideways so assuming if it is mounted correctly ground clearance shouldn't be affected.
Plus there is a lock for the oil release.
$45 delivered with adapter.

[rory]

Was thinking of putting one on my new Scania Bus to make oil changing easier. Spoke to Scania workshop manager who talked me out of it.
Ground clearance mightn't be a problem; but stones and sticks are; a large rock kicked up by a wheel could take it out??

[Redliner]

Was thinking of putting one on my new Scania Bus to make oil changing easier. Spoke to Scania workshop manager who talked me out of it.
Ground clearance mightn't be a problem; but stones and sticks are; a large rock kicked up by a wheel could take it out??

The sump plug is on the back of VW sumps. I would adjust final tightened position (thicker washer) so the the tab is located at the topmost position.
This would mean that the tab is at the back of the sump and above the bottom of the sump.

If you were still worried the link in the first post they suggest a circlip or cabletie to be used in extreme conditions.

I will order one and post up pics on final install and ease of use.

[Transporter]

That's the hard one, I like the idea but can't have both (not easily), when I also like my magnetic sump plug, with the long and shiny nickel plated magnet, which serves also as an indicator, just in case there would be the varnish or sludge build up, mainly good for some of my customers who are late with their servicing.

[Redliner]

That's the hard one, I like the idea but can't have both (not easily), when I also like my magnetic sump plug, with the long and shiny nickel plated magnet, which serves also as an indicator, just in case there would be the varnish or sludge build up, mainly good for some of my customers who are late with their servicing.

I agree. A magnetic plug is good, but my intent is to drop the oil more often anyway. Maybe every 5000kms, filter every 10000kms. Hence looking for easy ways to do it.

[Lucas_R]

Thoughts on Oil drain valve.

Ive got one of the ECS magnetic sump plugs on my car and its great. I saw these drain valves but dont really see the point of them to be honest? I dont think i could trust the valve not to leak....

[Transporter]

I agree. A magnetic plug is good, but my intent is to drop the oil more often anyway. Maybe every 5000kms, filter every 10000kms. Hence looking for easy ways to do it.

They do work and are reliable. You can attach the long hose to it and drain the oil staright into the disposable container, no mess.

[Polo GTEye N9]

I have also been interested in these Fumoto drain vavles. What Part Numbers are applicable or link please and who is the supplier? Cheers Al

[Redliner]

I have also been interested in these Fumoto drain vavles. What Part Numbers are applicable or link please and who is the supplier? Cheers Al

link:Fumoto Oil Drain Valve - Size Charts

Parts:
VW All other water cooled engines('99 & on oil pans with recessed plug require adaptor ADP-106) 14mm-1.5 F-106N $30

Plus adapter:
ADP-106 14mm-1.5 $7


Double check the part numbers for your model VW.

[wai]

I can remember these being the next best thing back in the 1980's. Yes, they are convenient, but it is not like this is being done that frequently. I used to change the oil on my Torana every 5000 km and it was never that much of an issue. I used a torque wrench and never had an issue with leaking or stripping of the sump threads.

One "issue" with the drain valve is that when you do it the old fashioned way, you get to wipe things down, whereas with the ball valve mentioned here, when you shut it off, you will always have an area where you will have some oil left behind and this will end up with drops of oil on the floor or driveway. You would have to stick some absorbent material up the outlet to clean it. Also, unless it has some sort of cap that you fit over it, there is the possibility of contamination. This is an issue with all ball valves. When closed, half of the valve is exposed to the outside. As the valve is operated, this has to be wiped by two seals as now some of this ends up on the inside. If the seals allow anything past, you will end up with some material in the sump. Being a mechanical component, seals will fail. It is small, but I have had this happen with sampling points in purified water systems. It is just another point that will ultimately become a maintenance issue.

[Transporter]

One "issue" with the drain valve is that when you do it the old fashioned way, you get to wipe things down, whereas with the ball valve mentioned here, when you shut it off, you will always have an area where you will have some oil left behind and this will end up with drops of oil on the floor or driveway. You would have to stick some absorbent material up the outlet to clean it. Also, unless it has some sort of cap that you fit over it, there is the possibility of contamination.

Either you use the drain plug or the drain valve, you would use something to clean up after the job. I use brake cleaner others maybe the degreaser in the spray can. That's one problem solved.

Now the contamination? You could slip on just a bit of the blanked off rubber hose, in which I would leave the hose long enough to reach my draining canister/container.

As for the wear in the ball valve? I'm sure that even if you cange the oil 4 times per year and you keep your car for 20 years, the ball seals should withstand to be open and closed 80x. ....and if not sure, just ask the manufacturer of the valve about the wear in the seals.

[wai]

Don't get me wrong, if you feel it will help, then do it. Just be aware that you are adding extra complexity to something and so you need to know that with complexity you add things that can fail. Unfortunately, you tend to not be as vigilant (because you have to do less) and so when things do go wrong, you can get caught out.

There is nothing better than the simplicity of a sump plug, a bit of rag and a torque wrench. Ok, you can get a bit messy, but nothing that some Swarfega and a bit of water will not clean up. And it is only every 6 months or 5,000 km if you want

Oh, and the wear on the valve seals is not from normal operation but from the seal having to clean off the dust that will inevitably get attracted to the remnants of the exposed oil. I have recently worked on a project where nitrogen vent valves (ball valves) failed for this very reason. The exposed half of the ball ended up with normal dust build up, and we ended up having to install dust filters (cheaper than having to keep replacing the ball valves).

[Transporter]

I like the simple things as well and know what you mean. Just offering the solution, should he end up installing one, that's all.