Not really sure mate, just recall Jimmy saying it was that way in the manual for the Polo.
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Braaaakes
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bumping this for an answer?..Originally posted by waxgti View Postquestion about the wear indicator/sensor... if i upgrade to audi tt/s3 brakes, can i just buy pads that come with the audi sensor/indicator and plug them into the polo?
or is the only option to bypass the snesor/indicator all together?
also anyone know of anyone used anyone reputable and well priced to get calipers refurbished in nsw, not too confident with doing it myself?
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Can anyone recommend somewhere to get the fluid bled? Even the chain-stores?
I've never had to get it flushed.
Need to book it in the end of this week...
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FYI bleeding and replenishing/flushing are 2 different things, you are "bleeding because you are bleeding out the air, you are not bleeding out the air when just changing the fluid., so doesnt surprise me you had no problems just changing your fluid, the sequence in question is used when the lines have been opened up/removed.Originally posted by Catfish View PostHow/why so? I've got a power bleeder and have done mine in the conventional sequence several times with no problems.
Cheers
JmacAlba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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Think you will find its way easier if you are bridging to do such with the VW portion of the wiring and not the pad portion of the wiring, try it both ways next time and you will see what i mean.Originally posted by noone View PostI just cut off the connector and linked the cables. I don't really have a need for the sensor.
JmacAlba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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Thanks for that. So, two questions:Originally posted by Jmac View PostFYI bleeding and replenishing/flushing are 2 different things, you are "bleeding because you are bleeding out the air, you are not bleeding out the air when just changing the fluid., so doesnt surprise me you had no problems just changing your fluid, the sequence in question is used when the lines have been opened up/removed.
Cheers
Jmac
1. What exactly is the recommended flushing sequence (I always include the clutch here).
2. What exactly is the recommended bleeding sequence if it's different - as I'm going to need this eventually.
Cheers
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I'm just going to poke some weird question in here as well - I was reading on one of the UK forums about bleeding problems in MK4's and someone said about bleeding the ABS system through VCDS? Most of the stuff on UK forums I take with a pinch of salt, but this got me thinking and was wondering if it might (even slightly) improve my braking performance after changing to the Porsche set up. It just confused me - is it even possible?2019 132TSI Tiguan
2011 Audi S4 Wagon
1988 MK1 Caddy
2006 Polo GTI
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I reckon that refers to running the ABS pump to fill it with fluid if it is new or is thought to be dry.Originally posted by nightphotographer View PostI'm just going to poke some weird question in here as well - I was reading on one of the UK forums about bleeding problems in MK4's and someone said about bleeding the ABS system through VCDS? Most of the stuff on UK forums I take with a pinch of salt, but this got me thinking and was wondering if it might (even slightly) improve my braking performance after changing to the Porsche set up. It just confused me - is it even possible?
Gavin
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Id be lucky to lose an egg cupfull of fluid removing all 4 even, but that trick i cannot take out of the vault im afraid its just one of those ones , gained from the guru who taught me and i use it every time and seriously i remove a flexi and get as much as a drip but respect the need to keep it. Ok anyway for those losing fluid or clamping pipes and the likes like the abs pump you do have to use VCDS on Mk4 Mk5 and 6, and this gets bled with 2 nipples open at a time and you go through buckets of fluid but has to be done to follow the procedure correctly, but changing fluid service fashion doesnt need this so dont make things harder than they are. Ill post up the "2" procedures later on got xmas stuff on.
Stay tuned for that
Ta
JmacAlba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
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Hoyhoy.
While on here about brakes, whats the best lastest on braided lines & 2 piece 312 x 25mm rotors.
I'm not real happy with the Racingbrake rotor @ the moment, they work great & cool, but after less than 10,000km's
they have some probs, Racingbrake have offered half $'s replacement on the ring, but. but. but, me ain't too sure.
Hooroo.
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Braaaakes
I'd steer away from drilled rotors entirely but that's just me. Look at slotted rotors if you must have some kind of surface detailing, Alcon do a good slotted rotor that doesn't remove much of the rotor face so you still get a good clamping area between pad and rotor.sigpic
Stage 2+ Intercooler Carbon Intake Downpipe Swaybar DV+ Remsa.
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